Revue de presse 2010

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Vendanges 2010Vous trouverez ces photos libres de droits sur le CD joint à cette Revue de Presse

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Pauillac

Recommendations > Bordeaux 2009 > Pauillac

With vineyards running from Saint-Julien in the south to Saint-Estèphe in the north, from the banks of the Gironde to back into Haut-Médoc country in the east, the style of Pauillac is varied, but in most cases dominated by the briary depth of Cabernet Sauvignon that gives a firmness that needs ageing. Alongside the habitual Pauillac vigour this year was a depth of ripeness that stayed on the palate, rather than being overwhelmed by firm tannins, although structure and grip was necessarily present for the long term. Many very impressive wines. Steven Spurrier

Chateau Latour, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

(91.3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.7% Merlot) Black red, huge concentration of black fruits and great purity, wonderfully fragrant nose with wild violets and lifted freshness, great length and perfect texture, totally Latour and all the fruit and vineyard will come out over the years. Drink 2018-45. (19.5 points)

Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Black red, wonderfully fragrant nose, rich and spicy and beautifully expressively textured fruit, plenty of extraction but pure harmony, vibrant and polished, seductive length and great future. Drink 2016-35. (18.5 points)

Chateau Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Black red, big, smoky rich and exotic nose, lots of depth, robust vineyard structure and powerful yet harmonious length, all vigourous potential. Drink 2017-35. (18.5 points)

Chateau Mouton Rothschild, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Black red, concentrated black fruits, rich satiny/velvety yet firm texture, rich, plummy, spicy, an explosion of aromas and flavours, surrounded and controlled by superb tannins, a sensually expressive wine. Drink 2016-40. (19 points)

Chateau Lafite Rothschild, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Black purple red, elegant concentration of pure Lafite Cabernets, wild violets, succulent yet restrained fruit, both fleshy and firm, superb middle palate, not massively structured but like a Gothic cathedral: austere on the outside and soaring to great heights in the inside. Drink 2018-50. (19.5 points)

Chateau Pontet-Canet, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Dense colour and pure Cabernet blackcurrant fruit beautifully extracted with great

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Pauillac

Recommendations > Bordeaux 2009 > Pauillac

With vineyards running from Saint-Julien in the south to Saint-Estèphe in the north, from the banks of the Gironde to back into Haut-Médoc country in the east, the style of Pauillac is varied, but in most cases dominated by the briary depth of Cabernet Sauvignon that gives a firmness that needs ageing. Alongside the habitual Pauillac vigour this year was a depth of ripeness that stayed on the palate, rather than being overwhelmed by firm tannins, although structure and grip was necessarily present for the long term. Many very impressive wines. Steven Spurrier

Chateau Latour, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

(91.3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.7% Merlot) Black red, huge concentration of black fruits and great purity, wonderfully fragrant nose with wild violets and lifted freshness, great length and perfect texture, totally Latour and all the fruit and vineyard will come out over the years. Drink 2018-45. (19.5 points)

Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Black red, wonderfully fragrant nose, rich and spicy and beautifully expressively textured fruit, plenty of extraction but pure harmony, vibrant and polished, seductive length and great future. Drink 2016-35. (18.5 points)

Chateau Pichon-Longueville-Baron, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Black red, big, smoky rich and exotic nose, lots of depth, robust vineyard structure and powerful yet harmonious length, all vigourous potential. Drink 2017-35. (18.5 points)

Chateau Mouton Rothschild, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Black red, concentrated black fruits, rich satiny/velvety yet firm texture, rich, plummy, spicy, an explosion of aromas and flavours, surrounded and controlled by superb tannins, a sensually expressive wine. Drink 2016-40. (19 points)

Chateau Lafite Rothschild, 1er Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Black purple red, elegant concentration of pure Lafite Cabernets, wild violets, succulent yet restrained fruit, both fleshy and firm, superb middle palate, not massively structured but like a Gothic cathedral: austere on the outside and soaring to great heights in the inside. Drink 2018-50. (19.5 points)

Chateau Pontet-Canet, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Dense colour and pure Cabernet blackcurrant fruit beautifully extracted with great



length and perfect harmony, great purity of expression, exuberant yet restrained, great future. Drink 2016-30. (18.5 points)

Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 2009

Fine dark red, beautiful cassis nose, fragrant and plummy, silky/satiny texture, very seductive classy black fruits with good tannin back-up. Drink 2014-20. (17.5 points)

Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Black red, smoky and concentrated blackcurrant fruit, rich succulent fruit with a thick velvety texture and quite firm tannins. Drink 2015-25. (16.5 points)

Chateau Clerc Milon, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Purple red, fine briary blackcurrant fruit, lots of earthy energy and an herbaceous lift to the naturally sweet density of fruit. Drink 2015-30. (17.5 points)

Chateau Batailley, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Dense red, good leafy blackcurrant nose, good broad plummy fruit, smooth texture attractive leathery spice and good length. Drink 2015-24. (16.5 points)

Chateau Haut-Batailley, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Dense red, big smoky cassis Cabernet Sauvignon nose, has seductive charm, great length and firm finish, a lovely wine. Drink 2015-25. (17.5 points)

Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Black red, big, smoky, almost leathery fruit, really great purity and intensity of flavour and great freshness and depth, with the tannins perfectly absorbed. Drink 2016-35. (18 points)

Chateau Haut-Bages-Liberal, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Black red, finely concentrated and rather tight black-currant fruit, a certain leafy leanness that is made up for by good middle concentration and length. Drink 2015-25. (17 points)

Chateau Lynch-Bages, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Dense purple red, concentrated Cabernet cassis plus rich spiciness, big volume on the palate, expressive elegance over the natural vigour, lifted and long. Drink 2015-30. (18 points)

Chateau d'Armailhac, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Dense purple red, lovely expression of ripe blackcurrant fruit, polished, classy, seductive and impressive, beautiful texture and length, totally charming Pauilac that will age well. Drink 2014-25. (17.5points)

Chateau Duhart Milon Rothschild, Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac 2009

Fine purple red, briary black fruits on the nose, really good but rather restrained on the palate, firm and complex, a classic Pauillac, beautifully structured with purity and length. Drink 2016-30. (18 points)

Reserve de la Comtesse, Pauillac 2009

Black red, big smoky wild violets nose, seductive fruit , fleshy and lifted, a really lovely Saint-Julien style Pauillac, all of a piece. Drink 2014-22. (17 points)

Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac 2009

Black red, great fragrance and precision on the nose, great depth of fruit and superb vineyard expression, ripeness, energy and grip over perfect tannins, very good



13

2009

A-Z of Primeur

Frédéric, Charles and Philippe

Pauillacs Show Their Class

Tasting Notes

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Gigantic Expectations : Pauillac 2009


Of course, Pauillac is much more than three First Growths (well, I sincerely hope it is, though I do wonder sometimes.) The buzz currently surrounds Château Pontet-Canet, which you could mistake for a Burgundy with its biodynamic, philosophical zeal (if it were not for its 100-plus hectare size…and predominance of Cabernet…and the fact that it is not located in the Côte d’Or…) Winemaker Jean-Michel Comme summarized the growing season… “For us, we are on the way of research to understand the ‘living’ [ecosystem] so we had to improve our knowledge of each parcel and each plant. It is another kind of challenge. We had to rediscover everything. We want to put the vines to a position where they recover their ‘identity’ because over the last 20, 30 or 40 years, they have lost their ability to express the terroir, so everything we do is aimed at recovering their identity and we must adapt our viticulture towards the care for the soil and the vines. We learnt a lot after 2007 [when rain and rot forced Albert Tesseron to sacrifice their biodynamic approach, a decision he regrets]. The disease only came in certain locations and varieties, so we could learn more about the terroir by being more efficient with respect to disease control. If you understand the terroir more, you are in the right direction to make better wines.”

At Pontet-Canet, the harvest started 28th September for the Merlot and from 7th October until 15th October for the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, one day before 2008 but much later than at Lafite or Latour. The Grand Vin represents 80% of the crop and consists of a blend of: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot.

I tasted this wine on four separate occasions including twice at the chateau. Something I have found with respect to biodynamic wines it that samples are more sensitive to their environment. So it was no surprise that when tasting in the early evening at the château following a severe rainstorm, the sample was rather subdued and lacked cohesion. In fact, the first three encounters indicated a very good 2009, but not a great one, that is until I tasted a sample at a négociant and bingo! Here was the Pontet-Canet that fulfilled all my expectations: the tension and the purité, the filigree tannins and yes, the personality that can make this wine so memorable. There is a softness to the wine that belies the structure underneath, a structure that may see it close down for a few years after bottling, to re-emerge again after 10-12 years. It is a great Pontet-Canet…but a sensitive one, so be kind.

I must have compared the two Pichons side-by-side on three occasions during primeur, which is completely hypocritical of me given that in the past I have asserted how they are fundamentally different wines that simply share the same first name. But that may no longer be true? “I love the vintage,” explained Christian Seely at Château Pichon Baron, adjusting his bowtie. “I think that it is marked by a wonderful finesse on the tannin, strong but fine, and the very best wines have a beautiful harmony and purity of fruit, very complete. I don’t know how people are going to appreciate this vintage? Others have been overwhelmingly impressive, but 2009 is more subtle in style and the very best wine, you think “what’s this about”. But you taste it and taste it and you realize the subtlety.”

Here the Cabernet Sauvignon was picked between 3rd and 9th October, the Merlot 24th September and 2nd October starting with the young vines and finishing on the old. A blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot, like the stupendous 2008, there is a clarity and delineation in the Grand Vin that I think was not achieved during the 1990s. At the moment there is a strictness to the wine, perhaps better delineated than their neighbour opposite, but it fans out beautifully on the finish andexpresses its terroir (which has been honed in to the “heart” of the gravel croupe in recent years) as succinctly as any other Pauillac.

Now the intriguing thing about the 2009 vintage is that Château Pichon-Lalande contains more Cabernet Sauvignon that Pichon-Baron: 75% with 20% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Whereas Pichon-Lalande is usually seen as the more approachable, fleshier, feminine cousin of Pichon Baron, in 2009 they have used the template of the Cabernet-dominated 1996, which winemaker Thomas Dô-Chi-Namonce described to me as the “archetypal Pichon Lalande.” Does this imply that the estate will eschew its Merlot in the future? Cropped between 22nd September and finishing on 7th October, I must say that the samples of Pichon-Lalande were more sensitive than ever to the changing weather, those encountered during primeur week performing better than the week before at the château. Therefore, I give it a slightly broader band

Page 1 sur 3Wine Journal: Gigantic Expectations : Pauillac 2009

13/04/2010http://www.erobertparker.com/members/nmartin/nm1115.asp

avril 2009 Chateau Pibran 89-91Tasted at Château Pichon-Baron. A blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, this Pibran has a deep garnet core. It has a very pure but very tight nose, a little reticent early in the morning. Blackberry, a touch of black plum and boysenberry. Very smooth and sensuous on the entry, supple tannins, touches of graphite interlacing the black fruit, good acidity, quite linear towards the finish but the Merlot lends it an agreeable corpulence. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Pichon Baron 95-97Tasted at the château and at the UGC. A blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot, picked between 24th September and the 9th October, cropped at around 35hl/ha and bestowed with 13.76% alcohol. This has a very tight nose at first, demanding coaxing from the glass. Very fine definition, a strict linearity at first, opening up a glacial pace, graphite, smoke, small black cherries, a hint of bilberry and crushed stones. The palate is full-bodied with brilliant definition and focus, even finer tannins than the stupendous 2008, very rounded and supple and yet with a firm linear backbone. No frills at the moment, just pure concentration. Wonderful persistency towards the finish. Top class. Tasted March 2010. 2009 Les Tourelles de Longueville 88-90A blend of 61% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc, this has a strict, linear nose with cedar infused black fruits, black plum, a hint of damson and a whiff of smoke. Good definition. The palate is full-bodied with quite muscular tannins, good depth of flavour, rounded blackberry, boysenberry, just a touch of white pepper and graphite towards the finish. Good definition here: this is an excellent Deuxieme Vin, though quite dry and tannic on the aftertaste. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Pichon-Lalande 93-96Tasted at the château and at the UGC. A limpid deep purple colour. This has a very fragrant nose, not quite as well defined as Pichon Baron, but very elegant and graceful with blackberry, raspberry leaf, pencil lead, graphite and wild hedgerow. Very pure and feminine. Second bottle at the UGC is actually better...much more precision here, the high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%) really showing through. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very compact, not as expansive as other wines, much more conservative than I was expecting, but very graceful with an unerring sense of symmetry. I cannot help feeling that the wine would benefit from a greater percentage of Merlot, especially on the finish, but over time is does expand in the glass, becoming more and more supple, with a sense of Cabernet invoked authority on the finish. This should coalesce beautifully by time of bottling. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Reserve de la Comtesse 88-90For the vintage, this Reserve as an exuberant, most approachable nose with red-berries, kirsch, graphite, sous-bois and cigar box. Very Pauillac. Moderate definition, actually closing up a little in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, lots of tobacco/cigar box flavours infusing the black, dusky fruit. Nicely balanced, if just a little too conservative towards the austere, smoky finish. Tasted March 2010.

2009 Chateau Pontet Canet 94-97Tasted on four separate occasions, including twice at the chateau, though actually showing best at a negociant. Representing 80% of the crop, 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. The nose is very pure, blackberry, small black cherries, a touch of griottes, a hint of cedar and mint. Quite feminine. Not too powerful. Very fine definition. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, insistent grip and good acidity, perhaps one of the most structured, masculine Pauillac 2009s but that does not detract from the finesse and poise. But certainly there is backbone here that segues into a tertiary note towards the finish. Very focused, more minerally elements towards the finish, hints of black truffle and smoke towards the finish. Very good persistency, somehow, an assured Pontet Canet. Superb. Tasted March 2010.

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A-Z of Primeur

Frédéric, Charles and Philippe


Tasting Notes










Gigantic Expectations : Pauillac 2009


Of course, Pauillac is much more than three First Growths (well, I sincerely hope it is, though I do wonder sometimes.) The buzz currently surrounds Château Pontet-Canet, which you could mistake for a Burgundy with its biodynamic, philosophical zeal (if it were not for its 100-plus hectare size…and predominance of Cabernet…and the fact that it is not located in the Côte d’Or…) Winemaker Jean-Michel Comme summarized the growing season… “For us, we are on the way of research to understand the ‘living’ [ecosystem] so we had to improve our knowledge of each parcel and each plant. It is another kind of challenge. We had to rediscover everything. We want to put the vines to a position where they recover their ‘identity’ because over the last 20, 30 or 40 years, they have lost their ability to express the terroir, so everything we do is aimed at recovering their identity and we must adapt our viticulture towards the care for the soil and the vines. We learnt a lot after 2007 [when rain and rot forced Albert Tesseron to sacrifice their biodynamic approach, a decision he regrets]. The disease only came in certain locations and varieties, so we could learn more about the terroir by being more efficient with respect to disease control. If you understand the terroir more, you are in the right direction to make better wines.”

At Pontet-Canet, the harvest started 28th September for the Merlot and from 7th October until 15th October for the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, one day before 2008 but much later than at Lafite or Latour. The Grand Vin represents 80% of the crop and consists of a blend of: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot.

I tasted this wine on four separate occasions including twice at the chateau. Something I have found with respect to biodynamic wines it that samples are more sensitive to their environment. So it was no surprise that when tasting in the early evening at the château following a severe rainstorm, the sample was rather subdued and lacked cohesion. In fact, the first three encounters indicated a very good 2009, but not a great one, that is until I tasted a sample at a négociant and bingo! Here was the Pontet-Canet that fulfilled all my expectations: the tension and the purité, the filigree tannins and yes, the personality that can make this wine so memorable. There is a softness to the wine that belies the structure underneath, a structure that may see it close down for a few years after bottling, to re-emerge again after 10-12 years. It is a great Pontet-Canet…but a sensitive one, so be kind.

I must have compared the two Pichons side-by-side on three occasions during primeur, which is completely hypocritical of me given that in the past I have asserted how they are fundamentally different wines that simply share the same first name. But that may no longer be true? “I love the vintage,” explained Christian Seely at Château Pichon Baron, adjusting his bowtie. “I think that it is marked by a wonderful finesse on the tannin, strong but fine, and the very best wines have a beautiful harmony and purity of fruit, very complete. I don’t know how people are going to appreciate this vintage? Others have been overwhelmingly impressive, but 2009 is more subtle in style and the very best wine, you think “what’s this about”. But you taste it and taste it and you realize the subtlety.”

Here the Cabernet Sauvignon was picked between 3rd and 9th October, the Merlot 24th September and 2nd October starting with the young vines and finishing on the old. A blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot, like the stupendous 2008, there is a clarity and delineation in the Grand Vin that I think was not achieved during the 1990s. At the moment there is a strictness to the wine, perhaps better delineated than their neighbour opposite, but it fans out beautifully on the finish andexpresses its terroir (which has been honed in to the “heart” of the gravel croupe in recent years) as succinctly as any other Pauillac.

Now the intriguing thing about the 2009 vintage is that Château Pichon-Lalande contains more Cabernet Sauvignon that Pichon-Baron: 75% with 20% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Whereas Pichon-Lalande is usually seen as the more approachable, fleshier, feminine cousin of Pichon Baron, in 2009 they have used the template of the Cabernet-dominated 1996, which winemaker Thomas Dô-Chi-Namonce described to me as the “archetypal Pichon Lalande.” Does this imply that the estate will eschew its Merlot in the future? Cropped between 22nd September and finishing on 7th October, I must say that the samples of Pichon-Lalande were more sensitive than ever to the changing weather, those encountered during primeur week performing better than the week before at the château. Therefore, I give it a slightly broader band



14

2009

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2009

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7 Apr 2010 by Jancis Robinson

See our guide to Bordeaux 2009 coverage.

There certainly was no shortage of ambition in Pauillac in 2009 with lots of really polished, refined, concentrated, super-ripe wines - particularly at the top. Pichon Baron and Pontet-Canet performed particularly well in their two very different styles (indoor and outdoor, one might say, respectively) and both Lafite and Latour seemed to be going full tilt. The only slight puzzle was the Mouton stable, which has been performing so well of late under the able aegis of Philippe Dhalluin. The tannins in all four wines here were notably drier and a little more rustic than the polished pzazz evident elsewhere. There is no great disparity in picking dates. Were the samples less 'prepared' than elsewhere? Or could this have been a reaction to the accusations sometimes levelled of old that the wines here were too New Worldy with too many echoes of Opus One? Probably not. The wines are very good, but just not quite as good as I had been expecting.

The crucial decision was, even more than usual, when to pick. It was vital that the phenolics ripened fully, notably in the slower Cabernets, but this could not be at the expense of any overripe aromas and raisining. Latour, for exampe, picked its Cabernets in four days instead of the usual eight.

Fermentations were particularly tumultuous in 2009 with extraction notably early in these very alcoholic musts.

Ch d'Armailhac 2009 Pauillac 16.5+ Drink 2017-2030 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Picked 23 Sep – 6 Oct. Very dark crimson. Inky and fragrant with just a hint of farmyard. Black cherries for the first time on the left bank! Less obviously ripe and supple than many 2009s on the nose but then on the palate there’s a sweet start and then a pretty chewy, slightly sinewy finish. Sweet and polished – not too much soul but an awful lot of effective artifice! Reasonably complete. More traditional tannin management than some. Fairly chunky.

Ch Batailley 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2019-2030 Bright crimson. Pretty deep. Succulent and sumptuous on the nose. Lots of sweetness. Just a little attenuated but should deliver satisfaction eventually!

Ch Clerc Milon 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2018-2030 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, 1% Carmenère. Picked 23 Sep – 6 Oct. Deep moody colour. Pretty sumptuous and polished – super-ripe and flattering. Very sweet and rich although, like the other wines from this stable, some slightly rugged tannins. No obvious alcohol but fairly ripe and plush, plus notable acidity. Fine boned with attractive sweetness but no knock-out ingredient X. Rather drying finish, imprecise. Certainly a defiantly more traditional style than some of its peers – odd, or perhaps predictable? – in view of the fact that it used to be criticised for being too New World!

Ch Croizet-Bages 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2017-2030 Blackish crimson. Briary rim. Sweet, slightly simple nose. But lots of density and lift on the finish. Quite high volatility but fun! Just a bit dry on the end. Faded a bit fast.

Ch Duhart-Milon 2009 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2017-2029 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot. Dark crimson. Scented and satiny with lots of lush mulberry fruit in the middle. Not at all flashy. Low key. Very dry, Cabernet finish. Polished again and sleek. Fine tannins. Not for the very long term but very beautifully made in a polished Cabernet way. Bone dry finish. More solid than Carruades. Light and lively on the finish. Sprightly – fully fledged status now. Not an also ran – though there is just a little astringency on the finish.

Ch La Fleur Peyrabon 2009 Pauillac 15 Drink 2015-2018 Mid crimson. Fleshy but a little bit dull and lacking zest. Sweet with a hint of animal fur – not at all typical Pauillac! Hot end. Then austere and drying. No!

Ch Grand-Puy Ducasse 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2016-2028 Unusually deep crimson. Very dark crimson. Sweet candy nose. Not very dense but certainly very sweet in a candy way. Then pretty austere tannins. Pretty dry end.

Ch Grand-Puy Lacoste, Lacoste Borie 2009 Pauillac 16 Drink 2014-2019 Very dark crimson. Lightly soapy nose. Sweet and floral and lively. A little bit of alcohol and a lot of sweetness. Frank and fun. Even if not the most serious wine of the lot. Bit of a fast fade. A little simple. 13.3%

Ch Grand-Puy Lacoste 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2017-2030 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Very dark crimson. Dense and rich and supple – less obviously fresh than its Haut-Batailley stablemate. Very sweet and just a little lacking depth compared with some Grand-Puy Lacoste vintages. Sinewy.

Ch Haut-Bages Libéral 2009 Pauillac 15.5 Drink 2016-2026 Sweet and oddly floral on the nose...? Plus a note of greenness. Rather simple and austere. Did this really ripen properly?

Ch Haut-Batailley 2009 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2016-2029 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Very dark crimson. Serious nose. Then splendid breadth. Minerals and bright fruit. Really appetising. Racy. Lots of energy. Lovely stuff. 13.5%

Ch Lafite, Carruades de Lafite 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2015-2025 55% of the crop. 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Very deep crimson with a sliglty pale rim. And lots of blue in it – a bit of press wine? Sumptuous nose already. Lightly inky start but then luscious texture and so round and polished. Great freshness and enormous polish, Doesn't taste as though there was lots of press wine in here. Great round stuff. Just a little kick at the end and a very slight hole towards the very end of the palate – otherwise fabissimo. But quite early maturing?

Ch Lafite 2009 Pauillac 19 Drink 2020-2040 43% of the crop. 82.5% Cabernet Sauvignon(!), 17% Merlot, 0.5% Petit Verdot. Deep, lustrous, dark crimson. Mineral, low-key nose, slow to open, but it did with time into something really very refined with great minerality. Very muted and super-restrained. Very fine boned, with a bit more flesh than is usual for Lafite but no flashiness whatsoever. Bravo for making such a good wine in such a buoyant market. Even a hint of milk chocolate! Though no trace of oak. Very vibrant, very fine and a great undertow. Very complex and subtle indeed. Bone dry finish. A little less ethereal than usual. Super refined. Bravo!

Ch Latour, Pauillac de Ch Latour 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2017-2030 Colours remarkably similar for these three wines. with the Latour grand vin just a little less purple than the other two but all three very dense and concentrated purplish crimson. Mild and fresh on the nose. Not desperately expressive on the nose but with amazing roundness of fruit on the palate. Dry finish and truly Latour-like – nothing at all like a third wine! Surely way ahead of other AC Pauillacs de Latour. Testing the limits of vulgarity. Tastes a little bit more than its 13.64% but why not? Frédéric Engerer says it’s a horizontal wine – Roman laid back. I wonder what they will charge for this? Very very lush – almost showing off! Just a little bit

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Page 1 sur 2Bordeaux 2009 – Pauillac | Fine Wine Writing & Wine Reviews from Jancis Robinson

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of hardness on the finish. Lots of press wine presumably – press wine from Forts de Latour. But masses of richness on the front. It will presumably always be a bit tough on the finish but it does deliver some of the Latour experience. 13.64%

Ch Latour, Les Forts de Latour 2009 Pauillac 18 Drink 2020-2035 Toasty and rich nose. Very plush and velvety – much more so than usual. Rich and velvety – such an amazing texture yet with Les Fort’s solidity. Very firm backbone. Explosive. But it will need quite a time to come round. Very fine and deep. Hint of oyster shells. Lifted. Wonderful texture. Very tight and tense. Dry finish.

Ch Latour 2009 Pauillac 19 Drink 2022-2045 Very deep and glowing crimson. Very rich and sweet ink on the nose. Wonderfully gorgeous and lush on the front palate. Then lots of heat and richness. Amazing power of fruit on the mid palate gives way to extremely pronounced tannins. Transparent, mellifluous, spicy. Violets, says Engerer. Dry Taylors port? Latour backbone. Glossy ripe fruit. Candied violets. Maybe in 03 we went overboard. Enormous energy. Very impressive.13.7%

Ch Lynch Bages 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2016-2028 Dense crimson. Rich and spicy and lifted. Really rather flirtatious. Not heavy or dense but very nicely balanced without aggressive notes of rough tannin or greenness.

Ch Lynch-Moussas 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2016-2026 Well balanced but not that concentrated on the nose. Sweet and easy and with a hint of air freshener. A little chewy on the end. Cocoa powder. Perfectly nice but without real distinction.

Ch Mouton Rothschild, Le Petit Mouton 2009 Pauillac 16 Drink 2018-2026 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc – one of the highest proportions of Cabernet Franc. Very solid and rather arresting on the nose. Then just a little rustic on the palate. Chewy tannins – not the ultra-suppleness of, say, Carruades and Les Forts. More of an obvious second wine? Rather drying tannins on the finish.

Ch Mouton Rothschild 2009 Pauillac 18.5 Drink 2020-2040 48% of the crop, picked 3 days earlier than usual because the grapes were so ripe. Average yield 45 hl/ha. 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot.Very dark indeed. Very Mouton. Very exotic, minerals, spice and old ladies’ handbags. Lovely topnotes. Real excitement on the nose here. Obviously great density but lots of grace notes. Lovely palate entry and glossy texture. Then again drier and a little more astringent than its peers on the finish. A difficult wine to mark because the nose is SO gorgeous! I think it may require just a bit more patience than some. Just seemed in a slightly low register when I tasted it. All the Mouton wines had ruder tannins than usual in 2009.13.1%

Ch Pedesclaux 2009 Pauillac 15.5 Drink 2015-2019 The well-heeled new owners have apparently just bought a massive area near Lafite. Mid crimson. Warm toasty nose. Very sweet – almost exaggeratedly sweet. Lots of toasty oak. Very far from classic!

Ch Pibran 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2014-2019 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, between Pontet-Canet and Grand-Puy Lacoste. Merlot on limestone – unusual. This is only 65% of production. 50% new oak. IPT (total polyphenol index) 81.Very dark. Very scented and floral – lilies? Exotic scent and then just a little leaner on the palate. Finishing a bit dry but lots of impact and flashiness. Less flesh than many 2009s. Maybe very slightly hard on the finish. Really very nice wine. GV?

Ch Pichon-Longueville (Baron), Les Tourelles de Longueville 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2014-2020 61% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc. Not young vine stuff – that goes into another wine. Half in screwcap since 2004. Nervy. Really quite chewy on the end. Light and lively and fresh and vivacious. Quite delicate. Warm, rich, very juicy, fruit juice. Sold a little en primeur but not via the Bordeaux Place, through their négociant instead. IPT (total polyphenol index) 78.

Ch Pichon-Longueville (Baron) 2009 Pauillac 18 Drink 2018-2030 33 hl/ha, older vines. Two thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, one third Merlot – they say Merlot quality in 09 was very Cabernet Sauvignon-like. IPT (total polyphenol index) 88, TA 3.4 g/l. One of the most concentrated vintages ever – from fruit not extraction. Very very dark crimson. Very mineral and grown up. Lovely lift and great, polished tannins. Very fresh and fine tannins with density and lift on the finish. Very sophisticated. Lots of mass. Remjnds me a little of their 1990, though the yields were very much lower in 2009. Very glossy and confident. Very sophisticated. 13.8%

Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Réserve de la Comtesse 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2015-2023 Dark crimson. Very fragrant. Lifted, luscious and lively. Relatively light bodied and flirtatious. More transparent than most 2009s. Just a bit angular and sinewy. Fades just a little fast.

Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2017-2030 Dark crimson and a little more complex-looking than the Réserve de la Comtesse. Heady and rich and spicy and lightly gamey. Very solid and dark and dense – almost brooding. Sweet, polished and fun. Just lacks a bit of bottom and density on the palate. Very flirtatious. Complete and savoury on the finish with very polished tannins. Appetising and not at all forced. But not the most ambitious 2009.

Ch Pontet-Canet 2009 Pauillac 18 Drink 2020-2035 Yields a bit more than in 2008, with more grand vin too. 81 ha total vineyards. This year they are trying for 24 ha by horse. They can’t tell us the alcohol but think it’s 13-13.5%. Very dark crimson. Firm and broad and very lively with real vibrant elderberry nose - there IS a bit of extra vitality in this wine! Very very nice and satisfying indeed. There is life to this and great breadth and depth. Intense richness that seems to come from the fruit rather than from winemaking. Something of Lafite’s complexity and integrity. Plus Mouton’s richness. Dry finish. Very well done. But it is not a wine you want to undertake young – still lots to sort out. Much less open than most. Dense – really quite dry on the end but appetising though very long term. Muscular.

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There certainly was no shortage of ambition in Pauillac in 2009 with lots of really polished, refined, concentrated, super-ripe wines - particularly at the top. Pichon Baron and Pontet-Canet performed particularly well in their two very different styles (indoor and outdoor, one might say, respectively) and both Lafite and Latour seemed to be going full tilt. The only slight puzzle was the Mouton stable, which has been performing so well of late under the able aegis of Philippe Dhalluin. The tannins in all four wines here were notably drier and a little more rustic than the polished pzazz evident elsewhere. There is no great disparity in picking dates. Were the samples less 'prepared' than elsewhere? Or could this have been a reaction to the accusations sometimes levelled of old that the wines here were too New Worldy with too many echoes of Opus One? Probably not. The wines are very good, but just not quite as good as I had been expecting.

The crucial decision was, even more than usual, when to pick. It was vital that the phenolics ripened fully, notably in the slower Cabernets, but this could not be at the expense of any overripe aromas and raisining. Latour, for exampe, picked its Cabernets in four days instead of the usual eight.

Fermentations were particularly tumultuous in 2009 with extraction notably early in these very alcoholic musts.

Ch d'Armailhac 2009 Pauillac 16.5+ Drink 2017-2030 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Picked 23 Sep – 6 Oct. Very dark crimson. Inky and fragrant with just a hint of farmyard. Black cherries for the first time on the left bank! Less obviously ripe and supple than many 2009s on the nose but then on the palate there’s a sweet start and then a pretty chewy, slightly sinewy finish. Sweet and polished – not too much soul but an awful lot of effective artifice! Reasonably complete. More traditional tannin management than some. Fairly chunky.

Ch Batailley 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2019-2030 Bright crimson. Pretty deep. Succulent and sumptuous on the nose. Lots of sweetness. Just a little attenuated but should deliver satisfaction eventually!

Ch Clerc Milon 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2018-2030 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot, 1% Carmenère. Picked 23 Sep – 6 Oct. Deep moody colour. Pretty sumptuous and polished – super-ripe and flattering. Very sweet and rich although, like the other wines from this stable, some slightly rugged tannins. No obvious alcohol but fairly ripe and plush, plus notable acidity. Fine boned with attractive sweetness but no knock-out ingredient X. Rather drying finish, imprecise. Certainly a defiantly more traditional style than some of its peers – odd, or perhaps predictable? – in view of the fact that it used to be criticised for being too New World!

Ch Croizet-Bages 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2017-2030 Blackish crimson. Briary rim. Sweet, slightly simple nose. But lots of density and lift on the finish. Quite high volatility but fun! Just a bit dry on the end. Faded a bit fast.

Ch Duhart-Milon 2009 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2017-2029 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot. Dark crimson. Scented and satiny with lots of lush mulberry fruit in the middle. Not at all flashy. Low key. Very dry, Cabernet finish. Polished again and sleek. Fine tannins. Not for the very long term but very beautifully made in a polished Cabernet way. Bone dry finish. More solid than Carruades. Light and lively on the finish. Sprightly – fully fledged status now. Not an also ran – though there is just a little astringency on the finish.

Ch La Fleur Peyrabon 2009 Pauillac 15 Drink 2015-2018 Mid crimson. Fleshy but a little bit dull and lacking zest. Sweet with a hint of animal fur – not at all typical Pauillac! Hot end. Then austere and drying. No!

Ch Grand-Puy Ducasse 2009 Pauillac 16.5 Drink 2016-2028 Unusually deep crimson. Very dark crimson. Sweet candy nose. Not very dense but certainly very sweet in a candy way. Then pretty austere tannins. Pretty dry end.

Ch Grand-Puy Lacoste, Lacoste Borie 2009 Pauillac 16 Drink 2014-2019 Very dark crimson. Lightly soapy nose. Sweet and floral and lively. A little bit of alcohol and a lot of sweetness. Frank and fun. Even if not the most serious wine of the lot. Bit of a fast fade. A little simple. 13.3%

Ch Grand-Puy Lacoste 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2017-2030 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Very dark crimson. Dense and rich and supple – less obviously fresh than its Haut-Batailley stablemate. Very sweet and just a little lacking depth compared with some Grand-Puy Lacoste vintages. Sinewy.

Ch Haut-Bages Libéral 2009 Pauillac 15.5 Drink 2016-2026 Sweet and oddly floral on the nose...? Plus a note of greenness. Rather simple and austere. Did this really ripen properly?

Ch Haut-Batailley 2009 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2016-2029 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Very dark crimson. Serious nose. Then splendid breadth. Minerals and bright fruit. Really appetising. Racy. Lots of energy. Lovely stuff. 13.5%

Ch Lafite, Carruades de Lafite 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2015-2025 55% of the crop. 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Very deep crimson with a sliglty pale rim. And lots of blue in it – a bit of press wine? Sumptuous nose already. Lightly inky start but then luscious texture and so round and polished. Great freshness and enormous polish, Doesn't taste as though there was lots of press wine in here. Great round stuff. Just a little kick at the end and a very slight hole towards the very end of the palate – otherwise fabissimo. But quite early maturing?

Ch Lafite 2009 Pauillac 19 Drink 2020-2040 43% of the crop. 82.5% Cabernet Sauvignon(!), 17% Merlot, 0.5% Petit Verdot. Deep, lustrous, dark crimson. Mineral, low-key nose, slow to open, but it did with time into something really very refined with great minerality. Very muted and super-restrained. Very fine boned, with a bit more flesh than is usual for Lafite but no flashiness whatsoever. Bravo for making such a good wine in such a buoyant market. Even a hint of milk chocolate! Though no trace of oak. Very vibrant, very fine and a great undertow. Very complex and subtle indeed. Bone dry finish. A little less ethereal than usual. Super refined. Bravo!

Ch Latour, Pauillac de Ch Latour 2009 Pauillac 17 Drink 2017-2030 Colours remarkably similar for these three wines. with the Latour grand vin just a little less purple than the other two but all three very dense and concentrated purplish crimson. Mild and fresh on the nose. Not desperately expressive on the nose but with amazing roundness of fruit on the palate. Dry finish and truly Latour-like – nothing at all like a third wine! Surely way ahead of other AC Pauillacs de Latour. Testing the limits of vulgarity. Tastes a little bit more than its 13.64% but why not? Frédéric Engerer says it’s a horizontal wine – Roman laid back. I wonder what they will charge for this? Very very lush – almost showing off! Just a little bit


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Wine merchants Bibendum are patting themselves very loudly on the back over the success of their consumer primeurs tasting on Wednesday, with the press release in italics below apparently confirming that British wine lovers are extremely interested in this new vintage.

Many more prices are expected next week once the American wine critic Robert Parker has published his scores. Since he gave such high points for so many 2008s, many proprietors are feeling confident of excellent scores for wines made in the much more widely celebrated 2009 vintage. I suspect that once prices for the more famous wines start to come out, we will all realise that we should be snapping up the best wines from humbler appellations, such as some of those in Bordeaux 2009 - more tasting notes just published.

Meanwhile, at the bottom of the Bordeaux pyramid, the CIVB has just announced its latest £1 million generic advertising campaign, pushing what is surely red bordeaux's most significant attribute: its suitability for the table. Gone are the vacant-looking models to be replaced by something much edgier.

I still think generic advertising campaigns are of extremely dubious value, but to me this one looks more sensible than all of its predecessors.

Over 900 wine lovers rush to taste Bordeaux 2009 at Bibendum's Bordeaux Tasting

The excitement surrounding Bordeaux 2009 reached fever pitch in London yesterday as over 900 wine lovers, sommeliers and journalists descended on Lord's cricket ground for Bibendum's Annual Bordeaux Tasting.

The only notable absentees were some of the chateau owners who were unable to travel to London from Bordeaux owing to the infamous volcanic ash cloud. For once, it seems that the ashes and Lord's is not a perfect combination! To their credit, nearly 30 producers did travel including AXA Millesimes's Christian Seely, and the hero of the hour, Anthony Barton, who flew in by private jet so as not to disappoint his public.

Those who were able to get to Lord's had a fantastic day. Wines from over 85 châteaux were on show and the tasting featured over 75 wines from the feted 2009 vintage. Bibendum Fine Wine Director Ben Collins said: 'Many of the 2009s were simply fantastic. In many cases the wines tasted even better than they had in Bordeaux a few weeks ago. This is clearly a vintage that has produced some outstanding wines, especially in the Medoc.'

Favourites included Pontet Canet, Pichon Baron, Montrose, La Conseillante and Léoville Barton but some less celebrated names also excelled. Dauzac, Lanessan, Pibran and Tronquoy Lalande are just a few of the wines that will offer superb value for money in 2009.

In addition to the 2009s many chateaux showed an older vintage, with wines stretching back to 1994. Demand to taste wines such as Cheval Blanc 2004, Lynch Bages 2008, Leoville Las Cases 1996 and d'Yquem 1996 was unsurprisingly high.

The tasting rocked. It was the biggest public Bordeaux en primeur tasting ever held in the UK and gave wine lovers their best opportunity to taste Bordeaux 2009 before they buy the wines.

Writing on his blog (www.wineanorak.com), Jamie Goode wrote: 'I love the way Bibendum treat their private customers like adults: for the last few years they have persuaded the Bordeaux producers to send cask samples and representatives over to let customers taste the new vintage for themselves, rather than forcing them to rely on critics.'


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It is clearly an approach that works. Bibendum received a record number of wish lists for en primeur wines from attendees as well as plenty of orders for the older vintages. Alex Marton, Bibendum Director of Fine Wine, said: 'We are looking forward to an exceptional Bordeaux 2009 campaign. It was brilliant to speak to so many new customers at Lord's who have not bought Bordeaux en primeur before, who are looking to buy this year.'

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17

2009

avril

Purpleblack,intensefreshcassisandcherrynose.Seemsavery'modern'style.Palatepowerful,impressiveweightandagreatintensityofspicydrivenfruit.Atouchofrichchocolatiness.Thicknessandpowerwhichcanonlyimpress,ifalittlebrutal.Denseandlong.94+94+94+94+

��2009CHÂTEAUPONTETCANET5èmeCruClasséPauillac In�Bond ££££tbatbatbatba 1 Add75clbottles,woodcaseof12

Adeeppurpleedgedblack.Firstscentisincrediblyappetising,likeblackberryandapplepie.Fullandsweet,andalsoanintense,pointedcassisfruit.Thickdryattackanamazingcombinationoffreshnessofconcentratedfruitandsimplythicknessoftannicweight.Allthistanninisjuststuffedwithfruit.Completely'real',naturaltotaste,withperfectfruitbalance,cutandclarityofflavour,allcombinedwithmassiveandimpressiveweightandminutesoflength.Oneofmytopwinesoftheyear.97979797

��2009ECHOdeLynchBagesPauillac In�Bond ££££tbatbatbatba 1 Add75clbottles,woodcaseof12

WhatusedtobecalledHautBagesAverous.SofterandmorefragrantthantheOrmesdePez.Spiceonattackleadstoahugelyexpressivemidpalate,andagainaspicyblackfruitfinish.Veryattractive,itseemslesscompleteinitselfthantheOrmesdePezfornow,butoftendevelopswell.90909090

��2009FORTSDELATOURduPauillac In�Bond ££££tbatbatbatba 1 Add75clbottles,woodcaseof12

Verydarkredtoblackcentre.Slightlyrestrained,(muffled,even)softcassisnose,Verystudiedtexture,smoothtannins,quitefat,quitethicklydry,itdoesnotquitetakeflight,seemingtolacktheimpetus.Butallthecomponentsarethere,soitmayhavebeenmeorthedayasothertastersclearlylovedthis.Thefinishiscertainlylong.92+?92+?92+?92+?

��2009LACOSTEBORIEduChâteauGrandPuyLacostePauillac In�Bond ££££tbatbatbatba 1 Add75clbottles,caseof12

Fragrantnose,sweetandfloral.Entryisallcalmandinharmony,asmoothrosepetalsoftnesswithripeblackfruitunderit.Veryprettywineindeed,andimpressivelylong.90909090

��2009LESHAUTSDEPONTETCANETduChâteauPontetCanetPauillac In�Bond ££££tbatbatbatba 1 Add75clbottles,woodcaseof12��

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PAUILLACPAUILLACPAUILLACPAUILLAC

InPauillacthequalityseemeduniversallyhigh.ThethreeFirstGrowthsareallatthetopoftheirgame.IperhapsdidnottasteLatourquiteaswellasothers,butitiscertainlyverygood.ThewinesthatwereexceptionalintheirowntermsarecertainlyPontetCanet,whichiswonderful(butstaycalmonthepriceAlfred,prettyplease?),andprobablyGrandPuyLacoste,HautBatailley,andLynchisaverystrongLynch.PichonLalandesemstobemakingawelcomereturntoform,butthereagainIhopetheywillrecognisetheneedforabitofbrandrebuildingandbereasonableinprice.Value?thereishopeforHautBatailley,HautBagesLiberal,andEchodeLynchBages.AndLacosteBorieifitisofferedenprimeur.

ClickanywinenametoseedetailsincludingotherClickanywinenametoseedetailsincludingotherClickanywinenametoseedetailsincludingotherClickanywinenametoseedetailsincludingotherreviewsreviewsreviewsreviews

PauillacPauillacPauillacPauillac2009CARRUADESDECHÂTEAULAFITEPauillac In�Bond ££££tbatbatbatba 1 Add75clbottles,woodcaseof12

TheLafitestabletastedatDuhartthisyearthereismajorconstructionworkgoingonatLafite.Carruadesisdeepincolour,althoughthelightinginthisroomatDuhartprobablycontributestotheblackcentre.Tautdrystylewithsweetfruitandafirmbittercherryfinish.OngoingbackaftertastingLafite,thisseemssignifcantlyhighertoned,butalsoeasierto'findyourwayaround'.AverysuccessfulCarruades.9191919192929292

��2009CHÂTEAUCLERCMILON5èmeCruClasséPauillac In�Bond ££££tbatbatbatba 1 Add75clbottles,woodcaseof12

Evenfresherthanthed'Armailhac,reallygoodliftedfruit,intense,quiteoakycassis,almostfierceinitsexpression,gorgeouslyvelvetytexture,longandreallyquiteexcitingforCM.92+92+92+92+

��2009CHÂTEAUD'ARMAILHAC5èmeCruClasséPauillac In�Bond ££££tbatbatbatba 1 Add75clbottles,woodcaseof12

60%CabernetSauvignon,24%Merlot,14%CabernetFranc,2%PetitVerdot.Expressive,spicyfruit,lotsoffreshweightofcassis,silkvelvettexture,veryfreshifquite'thick'.91919191

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18

2009

avril

29 avril 2010 12h29 | Par César Compadre 1 commentaire(s)

Vins: les notes de Robert Parker lancent la campagne primeurs des 2009 Sans surprise, les notes sont bonnes. Les prix des grands vins seront à la hausse

Robert Parker est un prescripteur de référence. PHOTO REUTERS

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Le critique américain Robert Parker ne fixe le prix d'aucun vin mais la sortie de ses notes participe souvent aux succès ou aux désagréments des campagnes de vente en primeurs des grands bordeaux.

Sur 37 pages, les abonnés à sa lettre qui fait autorité dans le monde anglo-saxon et ailleurs, peuvent lire le résultat des courses depuis hier. Producteurs, courtiers et négociants ont maintenant un élément (capital) de plus à intégrer dans la marmite de leur réflexion pour savoir à quels prix sortir les vins et dans quelles conditions.

Rappelons que ce marché des ventes en primeur, spécifique au Bordelais, concerne de 120 (les petites années) à 250 châteaux (les grands millésimes). Achetées d'ici juillet à des prix censés être attractifs, ces bouteilles, en cours d'élevage dans les propriétés, ne seront livrées que fin 2011. Il s'agit d'un achat par anticipation finançant les châteaux tout en permettant aux amateurs d'obtenir en amont des vins rares qui s'arracheront plus ou moins suivant la notoriété des millésimes et des châteaux.

Beaucoup de 100/100

Robert Parker, qui habite sur la côte Est des États-Unis, sillonne le Bordelais depuis trente-deux ans. Il a goûté pendant douze jours à la mi-mars (avant la semaine des primeurs de début avril) et livre donc ici ses notes pour 450 vins blancs et rouges, le tout avec des commentaires.

Sans surprise, l'homme est élogieux sur la qualité du 2009. « Un des meilleurs goûtés pendant ma carrière. Du niveau du 2005, c'est un millésime historique ». Même s'il précise « qu'il y a toujours des exceptions à ces généralités ».

Suivant son système de notation sur 100, et avec des fourchettes (par exemple 95-97), on trouve une quantité importante de très bonnes notes et plusieurs maximums. C'est le cas à Saint-Émilion avec par exemple Angélus (95-100), Bellevue Mondotte (95-100), Cheval Blanc (98-100) ou Pavie (96-100). Mais aussi à Pomerol : Clinet (97-100), Clos l'Église (96-100, l'Église Clinet (98-100), l'Évangile (96-100), Hosanna (98-100) ou Petrus (96-100). Le Médoc n'est pas en reste : Cos d'Estourmel (98-100), Lafite Rothschild (98-100), Latour (98-100), Léoville Las Cases (96-100), Léoville Poyferré (97-100), Margaux (98-100), Montrose (96-100) ou Pontet Canet (97-100) sont aussi au top du top. Ce qui n'est pas le cas de Mouton Rothschild (96-98). À souligner aussi les 100 amoncelés par Jean-Philippe Delmas à Pessac : Haut Brion et la Mission Haut Brion en rouge comme en blanc !

Et maintenant les prix

Suivant le « jeu » habituel, la majorité des propriétaires voudra

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1 7L'accord caché de Ségolène Royal

2 3Une femme de 79 ans victime d'une tentative de viol

3 6Traditionalistes : la maison du président de l'école bordelaise taguée

4 Capbreton: un homme retrouvé mort dans sa voiture

5 1Escalettes à propos de l'équipe de France : « Laurent Blanc décidera »

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Clubs de Supporters Bord'Eaux Loisir Pêche Evénements

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Page 2 sur 4Vins: les notes de Robert Parker lancent la campagne primeurs des 2009 - SudOuest.fr

03/05/2010http://www.sudouest.fr/2010/04/29/vins-les-notes-de-robert-parker-lancent-la-campag...

29 avril 2010 12h29 | Par César Compadre 1 commentaire(s)

Vins: les notes de Robert Parker lancent la campagne primeurs des 2009 Sans surprise, les notes sont bonnes. Les prix des grands vins seront à la hausse

Robert Parker est un prescripteur de référence. PHOTO REUTERS

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Le critique américain Robert Parker ne fixe le prix d'aucun vin mais la sortie de ses notes participe souvent aux succès ou aux désagréments des campagnes de vente en primeurs des grands bordeaux.

Sur 37 pages, les abonnés à sa lettre qui fait autorité dans le monde anglo-saxon et ailleurs, peuvent lire le résultat des courses depuis hier. Producteurs, courtiers et négociants ont maintenant un élément (capital) de plus à intégrer dans la marmite de leur réflexion pour savoir à quels prix sortir les vins et dans quelles conditions.

Rappelons que ce marché des ventes en primeur, spécifique au Bordelais, concerne de 120 (les petites années) à 250 châteaux (les grands millésimes). Achetées d'ici juillet à des prix censés être attractifs, ces bouteilles, en cours d'élevage dans les propriétés, ne seront livrées que fin 2011. Il s'agit d'un achat par anticipation finançant les châteaux tout en permettant aux amateurs d'obtenir en amont des vins rares qui s'arracheront plus ou moins suivant la notoriété des millésimes et des châteaux.

Beaucoup de 100/100

Robert Parker, qui habite sur la côte Est des États-Unis, sillonne le Bordelais depuis trente-deux ans. Il a goûté pendant douze jours à la mi-mars (avant la semaine des primeurs de début avril) et livre donc ici ses notes pour 450 vins blancs et rouges, le tout avec des commentaires.

Sans surprise, l'homme est élogieux sur la qualité du 2009. « Un des meilleurs goûtés pendant ma carrière. Du niveau du 2005, c'est un millésime historique ». Même s'il précise « qu'il y a toujours des exceptions à ces généralités ».

Suivant son système de notation sur 100, et avec des fourchettes (par exemple 95-97), on trouve une quantité importante de très bonnes notes et plusieurs maximums. C'est le cas à Saint-Émilion avec par exemple Angélus (95-100), Bellevue Mondotte (95-100), Cheval Blanc (98-100) ou Pavie (96-100). Mais aussi à Pomerol : Clinet (97-100), Clos l'Église (96-100, l'Église Clinet (98-100), l'Évangile (96-100), Hosanna (98-100) ou Petrus (96-100). Le Médoc n'est pas en reste : Cos d'Estourmel (98-100), Lafite Rothschild (98-100), Latour (98-100), Léoville Las Cases (96-100), Léoville Poyferré (97-100), Margaux (98-100), Montrose (96-100) ou Pontet Canet (97-100) sont aussi au top du top. Ce qui n'est pas le cas de Mouton Rothschild (96-98). À souligner aussi les 100 amoncelés par Jean-Philippe Delmas à Pessac : Haut Brion et la Mission Haut Brion en rouge comme en blanc !

Et maintenant les prix

Suivant le « jeu » habituel, la majorité des propriétaires voudra

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Lus | Commentés | EnvoyésLes +

1 7L'accord caché de Ségolène Royal

2 3Une femme de 79 ans victime d'une tentative de viol

3 6Traditionalistes : la maison du président de l'école bordelaise taguée

4 Capbreton: un homme retrouvé mort dans sa voiture

5 1Escalettes à propos de l'équipe de France : « Laurent Blanc décidera »

Associations

Pelote Pompignacaise Le club de Pelote de Pompignac créée en 2004 compte 65 adhérents avec une équipe féminine et une école de Pelote....

Les francas de Gironde Une association de Jeunesse et d'Education Populaire....

Clubs de Supporters Bord'Eaux Loisir Pêche Evénements

Rechercher le nom de l'association

Page 2 sur 4Vins: les notes de Robert Parker lancent la campagne primeurs des 2009 - SudOuest.fr

03/05/2010http://www.sudouest.fr/2010/04/29/vins-les-notes-de-robert-parker-lancent-la-campag...

19

2009

Tast - 16 Avril 2010

LE TOP DES BORDEAUX 2009Notre palmarès des plus grandes réussites de l’année....Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac.....

PAUILLACLes vins ont le caractère monumental du millésime, tout en respectant leur style traditionnel, lié à la situa-tion de leur vigne et à l’esthétique voulue et obtenue de leurs propriétaires ou responsables. La réussite est générale avec pour notre équipe de dégustateurs une préférence unanime pour les assemblages à très forte proportion de cabernet-sauvignon, souverain comme toujours sur les graves riches et argileuses del’appellation.

CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANETPauillac, rouge 2009La propriété a fait le choix de la pureté et de l’élégance au prix d’un léger manque de monumentalité dans la texture. Ce choix a ravi toute notre équipe, admirative devant le merveilleux naturel des arômes, et la finesse superlative du tanin. Un vin très abouti, et le triomphe habituel de David sur Goliath. 19/20

Tast - 16 Avril 2010

LE TOP DES BORDEAUX 2009Notre palmarès des plus grandes réussites de l’année....Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac.....

PAUILLACLes vins ont le caractère monumental du millésime, tout en respectant leur style traditionnel, lié à la situa-tion de leur vigne et à l’esthétique voulue et obtenue de leurs propriétaires ou responsables. La réussite est générale avec pour notre équipe de dégustateurs une préférence unanime pour les assemblages à très forte proportion de cabernet-sauvignon, souverain comme toujours sur les graves riches et argileuses del’appellation.

CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANETPauillac, rouge 2009La propriété a fait le choix de la pureté et de l’élégance au prix d’un léger manque de monumentalité dans la texture. Ce choix a ravi toute notre équipe, admirative devant le merveilleux naturel des arômes, et la finesse superlative du tanin. Un vin très abouti, et le triomphe habituel de David sur Goliath. 19/20

avril

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2009

13.1% alcohol. 87 CS, 9M, 2PV, 2CFPaul Pontallier calls this one of the “densest wines, but also the sweetest” he hasever made. Even if it falls slightly short of Lafite and Latour, it’s still a great wine. Very aromatic and alluring, this has cherry and redcurrant fruit, a touch ofbramble, well-integrated oak, assertive tannins and lively, refreshing, palate-cleansing acidity. 20+ years.

13.2% alcohol. 65 CS, 29M, 5CF, 1PVIt may or may not have something to do with bio-dynamic practices in the vineyard,but this fifth growth continues to outperform its place in the 1855 classification.Violet-scented and pure, the 2009 has a lovely freshness and elegance to it, withcedarwood, damson and black fruits on the palate. A wine that has now achievedSuper Second status. 20+ years.

13.5% alcohol. 100 MThere will be an almighty scramble to buy the 7,000 bottles of the 2009 Le Pin,even at what is sure to be a very high price. The wine is a brilliant example ofskilfully tamed exuberance, with notes of Asian spices and cedarwood on the noseand elegant, almost Ribera del Duero-like flavours. This is poised and refreshing.Drinkable young, but has the concentration to age. 15+ years.

13.7% alcohol. 84 M, 8CF, 8CSUnusually low in Cabernet Franc because of water stress in part of the vineyard,but the sensuous Merlot more than compensates. More marked by oak than LePin, but also a bigger, more powerful wine. Sweet, succulent, harmonious palatewith lovely acidity and a savoury notes from the Cabernet Sauvignon. The aimhere was to avoid a “massive wine”. VCC succeeded. 20+ years.

14% alcohol. 80M, 20CFThe J-P Moueix tasting was of a very high standard this year, but this was thestand out wine for me. It’s very deeply coloured, showing rich, sumptuous aromasof coffee bean, plum and blackberry. The palate is beautifully structured, even atthis young age, with lovely balance between tannins, oak, acidity and fruit. Anexceptional Pomerol . 20+ years

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2009

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Bordeaux En Primeur 2009 Day 4: Saint-Julien, Saint-Estèphe, PauillacFor success or failure, blame merlot.

Published on Apr 1, 2010

BY ROGER VOSS

Friday reviews: Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux whites, the FIRSTS Friday: Wine of the Vintage

ALSO SEE:

En Primeur Day 1: Sauternes

En Primeur Day 2: Saint-Emilion and Pomerol

En Primeur Day 3: Marguax, Moulis, Listrac, Médoc.

There is no doubt, 2009 is a great Bordeaux vintage. In the northern Médoc’s appellations of Saint-Julien, Saint-Estèphe and Pauillac, where I

tasted today, the Cabernet Sauvignon has produced magnificent wines; rich and luscious while preserving mouth-tingling fruit and freshness.

But 2009 is not a uniform vintage. There is a lot of talk at the tasting tables this week of a lack ofhomogeneity. So while the best wines are great, there are some which should be great and are not.

The reason is straightforward and has come right out of the nature of the 2009 vintage, as I noted yesterday. Nature shows itself even more clearly today. “You had to choose the right date to pick”, said Charles Chevalier of Château Lafite-Rothschild. Across the road at Château Mouton-Rothschild, Philippe Dhalluin advanced the picking because he “wanted to restrain the level of alcohol” (Mouton is 13.1 percent) and bring out the natural freshness of the vintage. Xavier Pallu at Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande said “it was important to preserve the fruit and not look for extra maturation.”

The big risk of over-ripeness, of shrivelled grapes, was with the Merlot, a variety naturally more alcoholic than Cabernet Sauvignon.

“We had to watch the maturation of the Merlot like a hawk,” said Yves Delsol, technical director of Château Tronquoy-Lalande in Saint-Estèphe. “Everything depended on the Merlot. The higher the quantity of Merlot you had in your vineyard, the more you had to guard against high sugars and high alcohols.”

If you didn’t—and there are some famous names in the Médoc who didn’t—then the alcohol creeps up, and the wine becomes too big, too powerful for the essential balance. It lacks the vital quality of vivacity.

Put against the failures were the successes of those who knew how to handle the exceptional 2009 harvest. Anthony Barton, of Château Léoville Barton, has been working in Bordeaux since 1951, which gives him a long memory of past harvests. “If I was asked what are the ideal climate conditions we need, I would say it is what we had in 2009. Everything was perfect, so the wine should be and it is.”

Alfred Tesseron, at Château Pontet-Canet, says simply: “if I didn’t make a great wine in 2009, then I should choose another career.”

Bordeaux 2009 en primeur.

98–100 Château Pontet-Canet 2009 Pauillac A superb wine with the purest fruit, great freshness and ripeness. It is certainly structured with dry tannins, while the blackcurrant freshness is also all there. The biodynamic wine has a great limpid, flowing feel, backed by power.–R.V.

96–98 Château Léoville las-Cases 2009 Saint-Julien A powerful wine, packed with tannins from structured Cabernet fruits. It exudes muscularity, intensity and concentration. The wood element is present. Maybe the final freshness is missing.–R.V.

96–98 Château Léoville-Barton 2009 Saint-Julien Ripe, sweet but also intensely juicy; a delicious wine, full of sweetness and rich complexity. The new wood element is there, neatly bringing out the beauty of the fruit.–R.V.

95–97Château Ducru Beaucaillou 2009 Saint-Julien

WINE ENTHUSIAST MAGAZINE / APRIL 2010 / BORDEAUX EN PRIMEUR 2009 DAY 4: SAINT-JULIEN, SAINT-ESTÈPHE, PAUILLAC

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24

2009

Bordeaux 2009 at the home of cricket

« Closures for fine wines St Peter’s Organic Ale »

After the IWC today, I headed over to Lord’s for a Bordeaux tasting put on by Bibendum Wine. I love the way Bibendum treat their private customers like adults: for the last few years they have persuaded the Bordeaux producers to send cask samples and representatives over to let customers taste the new vintage for themselves, rather than forcing them to rely on critics.

So as well as some interesting back vintages, they had a whole bunch of the much talked about 2009s to taste. I managed to get round 27 of them, before it became quite crowded and my palate started to tire (I’d already tasted quite a lot of wines at the IWC). Here are my favourites. [Bear in mind these are cask samples, hence scores, out of 100, are given as a range.]

Château Pontet Canet 2009 PauillacBeautifully dense and taut with backward dark fruits, good tannins and some minerality. Lovely stuff. 94–96

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 2009 Pauillac Dense, focused and structured with lovely fruit. Concentrated with some new oak showing, as well as lovely structure. Serious effort. 93–95

Château Figeac 2009 St Emilion Lovely focused blackcurrant nose with nice chalky edge. Dense, structured palate with lovely finish. Savoury and quite serious. 93–95

Château Petit Village 2009 Pomerol Beautifully seductive with lovely sweet ripe fruit supported by incredibly soft but dense tannins. A forward, ripe wine but it’s in balance. Very impressive. 93–95

Château Angelus 2009 St Emilion Very supple and bright with lovely density of precise, vibrant dark fruits backed up by firm yet smooth tannins. Great balance. 93–95

see the rest of my notes here.

Page 1 sur 2Bordeaux 2009 at the home of cricket « jamie goode's wine blog

29/04/2010http://www.wineanorak.com/wineblog/bordeaux/bordeaux-2009-at-the-home-of-cricket

Bordeaux 2009 at the home of cricket

« Closures for fine wines St Peter’s Organic Ale »

After the IWC today, I headed over to Lord’s for a Bordeaux tasting put on by Bibendum Wine. I love the way Bibendum treat their private customers like adults: for the last few years they have persuaded the Bordeaux producers to send cask samples and representatives over to let customers taste the new vintage for themselves, rather than forcing them to rely on critics.

So as well as some interesting back vintages, they had a whole bunch of the much talked about 2009s to taste. I managed to get round 27 of them, before it became quite crowded and my palate started to tire (I’d already tasted quite a lot of wines at the IWC). Here are my favourites. [Bear in mind these are cask samples, hence scores, out of 100, are given as a range.]

Château Pontet Canet 2009 PauillacBeautifully dense and taut with backward dark fruits, good tannins and some minerality. Lovely stuff. 94–96

Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 2009 Pauillac Dense, focused and structured with lovely fruit. Concentrated with some new oak showing, as well as lovely structure. Serious effort. 93–95

Château Figeac 2009 St Emilion Lovely focused blackcurrant nose with nice chalky edge. Dense, structured palate with lovely finish. Savoury and quite serious. 93–95

Château Petit Village 2009 Pomerol Beautifully seductive with lovely sweet ripe fruit supported by incredibly soft but dense tannins. A forward, ripe wine but it’s in balance. Very impressive. 93–95

Château Angelus 2009 St Emilion Very supple and bright with lovely density of precise, vibrant dark fruits backed up by firm yet smooth tannins. Great balance. 93–95

see the rest of my notes here.

Page 1 sur 2Bordeaux 2009 at the home of cricket « jamie goode's wine blog

29/04/2010http://www.wineanorak.com/wineblog/bordeaux/bordeaux-2009-at-the-home-of-cricket

25

2009

April 9, 2010, Redwood City, CA—The K&L team has just returned fromBordeaux, and we’re excited to shareour take on the super-hyped 2009vintage. Much like our trip toBordeaux in April 2006 to taste the2005 vintage, we arrived amidspeculation that this was the Bordeauxvintage, that the wines were near-perfect. We (meaning me—Clyde, TreyBeffa, Ralph Sands, Alex Pross and JeffGarneau) met at the Compagnie Médocainedes Grands Crus offices for a Saturdaytasting of some 2009 Bordeaux beforeheading to Château Pichon-Baron for our

first official 2009 tasting. We were to spend only seven days tasting thesewines (normally we spend nine), so we would have to put in long daysand a lot of driving, too.

What we found over the course of the week, tasting in somewhat drearyweather conditions (a couple of clear days, a couple of cold and rainy daysand a few really windy and damp days) was a vintage that has held up toall the hype. If the 2005s were easy to taste as infants, the 2009s were evenmore accessible and easier to taste. In fact, sampling the 200 wines at thisyear’s Joanne tasting was as easy as it ever has been—even easier thantasting the 2007s. The tannin levels in the 2009s are the highest everrecorded at most properties, the alcohol levels are as high as Bordeauxcan get, and the wines are as concentrated as we have ever tasted in our25 years of coming to Bordeaux, and still the wines were a piece of caketo taste—except for one nasty Tuesday where we were pummeled bysuper-highwinds and low barometric pressure. How could that be, youask? In general, the wines were sweet and lush, with high alcohol and lowacidity, which, combined with tremendous ripe fruit flavors to mask themassive tannins and lingering sweet finishes, made them a delight todrink even at this early stage. In fact, they were so fresh, lively and vibrantthat they seemed to have high acidity like the 2005s, but acid levels were

actually much lower than in 2005, though still a bit higher than the super-ripe 2003 vintage. One note about acidity and longevity: Low acidity hasvery little impact on the life of some vintages. There are very low-acidvintages where the wines have aged magnificently for many, many years. Iremember when I started collecting wine in 1971. Many wine people saidto quickly drink their 1953s and 1959s because they tasted “too good” tooearly in their life. Well, properly stored wines from these vintages are stillquite good. Acids and tannins do work as a preservative in wine, but fruitis one of the best preservatives, and 2009 wines have enormous fruit.

In 2009, the brix levels—the amount of sugar in the grapes at harvest—were also higher than any other vintage in recent memory, and theresulting wines were higher in alcohol than most can remember, withmany wines reaching 14 degrees and above. And still the wines were easyto taste—so sweet, with such smooth tannins and so much fruit.

“In general, the wines were sweet and lush, with highalcohol and low acidity, which, combined withtremendous ripe fruit flavors to mask the massivetannins and lingering sweet finishes, made them adelight to drink, even at this early stage.”Okay, so how did all this sweet-fruited perfection come to be? One word:weather. The vintage’s perfect weather conditions lead to perfect ripeningand an overall fantastic vintage. It was never too hot or too cold, too wetor too dry. I had a hunch the vintage was going to be great back in June2009 when I attended VinExpo and the weather was bright and sunnyevery day, with temperatures in the high 70s.

How do the wines compare to other vintages? The 2009s are in the styleof the super-silky 1970s and 1982s—gentle, fat, and sweet. Many old-timers say they resemble the 1947s! Noted négociant Bill Blatch describesthem as a combination of 1947, with 63 years of winemaking improve-ments and experience (1947X) and 1982, with controlled vineyard yields

www.klwines.com800.247.5987

May 2010

2009 Bordeaux

The 2009 Bordeaux Vintage Report:“2009=1947X+1982Y+2005Z”

OR“PURE CASHMERE”

Special Report

Clyde Beffa JrCo-owner/Bordeaux Buyer

11

Château Léoville-Barton, St-Julien **Closed up at first. Big and brooding. Age it. At UGC: Red berry aromasand flavors. A big wine here with a tannic edge; it should age well formany years. At property: Huge wine that’s closed and unyielding. Seemsto have all the right elements, but hard to taste here. Ralph: Deep, grapey,masculine wine. It was really good the second time we tasted it.Château Léoville-Poyferré, St-Julien **Good entry, but dry at the back end. Was it the sample? At UGC: DidierCuvelier has a winner again. A lush wine that is sweet, sexy and full ofsilky undertones. Excellent intensity and depth. Ralph: Deep red cherryfruit, sweet, with fine balance. Far better the second time we tasted it.Château Léoville-Las Cases, St-Julien **½+Sexy wine. Red currant flavors. Power and elegance together. Tons of lush,decadent fruit. Alex: Easily a candidate for wine of the vintage; this wineis huge, but so smooth. Its deceptive power almost goes by unnoticed.Trey: This was one of the most concentrated wines of the trip, though itshows fantastic finesse, balance and freshness. Ralph: All of the above,with a powerful strike on the palate and great freshness!Clos du Marquis, St-Julien *½+VGreat entry. Plummy aromas and flavors. Superb length. Alex: This winewas drop-dead gorgeous! A stunning wine with such purity of fruit anddepth it left me speechless. Ralph: Deep blood red, with thick mid-palatefruit. It will be one of the great values of the vintage! Jeff: Elegant andintriguing. 2009 is the “vintage of the second wine.” This is easily one ofthe best.Château Saint-Pierre, St-Julien *+More power. Nice flavors. Hot on the palate. At UGC: A big wine that isholding back now, but with tremendous potential. Ralph: Deep, tasty,dark purple fruit; a touch rustic but long on the finish.Château Talbot, St-Julien ½*Nice entry and good fruit. At UGC: Cherry fruit. Elegant style. Veryforward and sweet.

PAUILLACThe five of us thought that Pauillac turned out some of the bestwines in 2009. Heck, some of the most famous châteaux inBordeaux are in Pauillac, and we’re not even counting the threeFirst Growths.

Château Croizet-Bages, Pauillac ½*VDecent flavor, but the nose appears to be holding back. Quite nice. Ralph:Deep fruit, a bit rustic, but the best I’ve ever had from Croizet!Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse, PauillacTough and tannic. Was it the sample?Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac *½Good length and depth—superb.Château Haut-Bages Libéral, Pauillac *VAt UGC: A very ripe wine, with mint and orange zest undertones. Exoticto a point. Samples were variable.Château Duhart-Milon, Pauillac ½*+Red bell pepper aromas with toasted oak nuances. Fine texture and nicespice on the finish.Carruades de Lafite, Pauillac *Ripe blackberry aromas and flavors. Will be expensive. (Most of this goesto China.)Château Latour, Pauillac ***91% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep, brooding and super-concentrated on thenose. Packed with ripe fruit, which conceals the high tannic content. Sofresh, it seems very high in acid. Long, long, lingering finish. Seems moreforward than most Latours of late. Alex: Black walnut, dark cherry kirschand lush, beautiful tannins. Reminiscent of the 2000, but a bit moreapproachable. Ralph: Dense, thick but not heavy. Dark chocolate andpomegranate notes. Fleshier than the 2005.

Bordeaux 2009

Left: K&L’s Jeff Garneau, Alex Pross and Ralph Sands in front of Château Duhart-Milon. Right:Château Latour’s world famous vineyards.

2009 Bordeaux

12 Find cocktail recipes and more on our blog at Blog.KLWines.com

Château Haut-Batailley, Pauillac ½*Red fruit flavors. A nice texture and good length.Château Lafite-Rothschild, Pauillac **½+Blackish color. A touch closed on the nose. Layers of fruit on the palate.Black cherry, mouthcoating wine. Opens with air. Should be great, butvery expensive. Ralph: The grapey black-crimson fruit is a bit rounderthan usual, and with a bit more silkiness. Still very precise and focused,with just the right amount of tannin. A classic!Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac **+Big and rich. Great balance and lots of depth. At the property: Pepper andspice and everything nice. Lively, fresh and vibrant. An excellent secondwine. Ralph: Great second wine with charged up dark raspberry andsweet Bing cherry fruit. Zesty and fresh.Château Lynch-Moussas, Pauillac *Nice sweetness and cranberry flavors. Vibrant. Alex loved it. Ralph: BestI’ve ever tasted from this property.Château Lynch Bages, Pauillac **At UGC: Big and brooding, with tons of ripe tannins, blackberry fruitand fine acidity. Very dense. At property: Pencil lead and cedar aromas.Very spicy.Château Pedesclaux Pauillac *½+Big wine, with lots of lead pencil and a good finish. Tons of chocolate,spice and flowers on the nose. Packed with loads of ripe black fruits and afreshness never achieved by this property. Bravo, if price is reasonable.Château Pichon-Baron, Pauillac **Powerful and very rich—quite nice. Tons of evolved fruit. At UGC: Greatbody and sweetness on palate. So pure. At property: Red currant aromas,with fine texture and mouthfeel. Seamless and silky. Fine depth. Ralph:Very serious, deep and lively, with sweet fruit and classic structure. Willbe one of the longest lived ’09s.

Tasted at Mouton-RothschildChâteau Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac ***88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot. Great, perfumey aromas of cassisand currants mixed with tobacco and cedar wood. Super-concentratedwine, with a finish that lasts a minute or more. Alex: The “iron fist in avelvet glove” analogy strikes again. Ralph: Spicy and lively black fruit withan elegant and very long finish.Château Clerc Milon, Pauillac *½+Black fruit. A great middle, with lots of pure fruit. This wine really sings.Lush and sweet, with tons of blackberry fruit.Château d’Armailhac, Pauillac *+Light red fruit. Good length. At UGC: Very sweet aromas of cherry andgood palate impression. At the property: A touch of whisky barrel? Ralph:Very nice; a fine value.

Château Pibran, Pauillac ½*VNice blackberry aromas and a fine palate with round tannins. Well made.Château Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac **75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot. A moremasculine style of Pichon, but with great aromas of cedar and cassis. Tonsof ripe fruit and a very sweet middle. Great texture. On the bigger side forPichon. Ralph: Elegant. Great freshenss with sweet middle fruit. Tasty,even now!Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac **½65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot. Our specialbottle at the Joanne tasting. A fabulous wine. Tons of spicy black fruits. Atproperty: Plummy, oaky aromas with chocolate undertones. No edges.Serenity. Alex: Tart blackberry fruit with a touch of spice and goodacidity. Bright and fresh. Trey: So sweet, plush and fruity that the tanninswere hardly noticeable. Ralph: Dark blue fruit. Very fragrant. Jeff: Tartberries and spice. Bright and lively. Superb weight and texture.

Clockwise from top left: The K&L team with Philippene de Rothschild of Château Mouton-Rothschild; Clyde Beffawith Jean-Rene at Château Pichon-Baron; Early morning at Château Pichon-Baron.

April 9, 2010, Redwood City, CA—The K&L team has just returned fromBordeaux, and we’re excited to shareour take on the super-hyped 2009vintage. Much like our trip toBordeaux in April 2006 to taste the2005 vintage, we arrived amidspeculation that this was the Bordeauxvintage, that the wines were near-perfect. We (meaning me—Clyde, TreyBeffa, Ralph Sands, Alex Pross and JeffGarneau) met at the Compagnie Médocainedes Grands Crus offices for a Saturdaytasting of some 2009 Bordeaux beforeheading to Château Pichon-Baron for our

first official 2009 tasting. We were to spend only seven days tasting thesewines (normally we spend nine), so we would have to put in long daysand a lot of driving, too.

What we found over the course of the week, tasting in somewhat drearyweather conditions (a couple of clear days, a couple of cold and rainy daysand a few really windy and damp days) was a vintage that has held up toall the hype. If the 2005s were easy to taste as infants, the 2009s were evenmore accessible and easier to taste. In fact, sampling the 200 wines at thisyear’s Joanne tasting was as easy as it ever has been—even easier thantasting the 2007s. The tannin levels in the 2009s are the highest everrecorded at most properties, the alcohol levels are as high as Bordeauxcan get, and the wines are as concentrated as we have ever tasted in our25 years of coming to Bordeaux, and still the wines were a piece of caketo taste—except for one nasty Tuesday where we were pummeled bysuper-highwinds and low barometric pressure. How could that be, youask? In general, the wines were sweet and lush, with high alcohol and lowacidity, which, combined with tremendous ripe fruit flavors to mask themassive tannins and lingering sweet finishes, made them a delight todrink even at this early stage. In fact, they were so fresh, lively and vibrantthat they seemed to have high acidity like the 2005s, but acid levels were

actually much lower than in 2005, though still a bit higher than the super-ripe 2003 vintage. One note about acidity and longevity: Low acidity hasvery little impact on the life of some vintages. There are very low-acidvintages where the wines have aged magnificently for many, many years. Iremember when I started collecting wine in 1971. Many wine people saidto quickly drink their 1953s and 1959s because they tasted “too good” tooearly in their life. Well, properly stored wines from these vintages are stillquite good. Acids and tannins do work as a preservative in wine, but fruitis one of the best preservatives, and 2009 wines have enormous fruit.

In 2009, the brix levels—the amount of sugar in the grapes at harvest—were also higher than any other vintage in recent memory, and theresulting wines were higher in alcohol than most can remember, withmany wines reaching 14 degrees and above. And still the wines were easyto taste—so sweet, with such smooth tannins and so much fruit.

“In general, the wines were sweet and lush, with highalcohol and low acidity, which, combined withtremendous ripe fruit flavors to mask the massivetannins and lingering sweet finishes, made them adelight to drink, even at this early stage.”Okay, so how did all this sweet-fruited perfection come to be? One word:weather. The vintage’s perfect weather conditions lead to perfect ripeningand an overall fantastic vintage. It was never too hot or too cold, too wetor too dry. I had a hunch the vintage was going to be great back in June2009 when I attended VinExpo and the weather was bright and sunnyevery day, with temperatures in the high 70s.

How do the wines compare to other vintages? The 2009s are in the styleof the super-silky 1970s and 1982s—gentle, fat, and sweet. Many old-timers say they resemble the 1947s! Noted négociant Bill Blatch describesthem as a combination of 1947, with 63 years of winemaking improve-ments and experience (1947X) and 1982, with controlled vineyard yields

www.klwines.com800.247.5987

May 2010

2009 Bordeaux

The 2009 Bordeaux Vintage Report:“2009=1947X+1982Y+2005Z”

OR“PURE CASHMERE”

Special Report

Clyde Beffa JrCo-owner/Bordeaux Buyer

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Summing up the 2009 vintage

The best red wines are probably the finest since 1959 or 1961. Great wines throughout the region, but Merlot was trickier to get “right” than Cabernet Sauvignon. A stylistic conundrum, with a great deal of variation that is not due to winemaking fads. High alcohol levels. Good, ample dry whites, but not a patch on the previous three vintages. Some great Sauternes, but a mixed performance. A late-ripening year after very warm and particularly dry conditions. Exceptionally healthy fruit. Prolonged harvest in perfect weather. No operational difficulties; the challenge was when to pick which parcels. A good-size, current average harvest of 5.745 million hl: 1 percent or so more than 2007 and 2002; 4 percent less than 2005; 14 percent less than 2004.

The growing season: a relatively simple storyWinter/spring The growing season was relatively straightforward: a cold, dry winter and early spring, with plenty of nourishing rainfall in January, April, May, and June to build up moisture reserves in the soil. May was mostly warm and sunny, but hailstorms in the middle of the month damaged vineyards (and therefore yield) in the southern Médoc (Cantenac, Arsac, Labarde), Léognan and the southern Graves, Entre-Deux-Mers, and east and northeast St-Emilion. Flowering was rapid and even, and it was over by mid-June in perfect warm conditions, producing

a large and healthy fruit-set, fat with promise by early July. Summer Compared with the ten-year average, the months from July through late October were notable for longer actual hours of sunshine, higher mean temperatures (by a couple of degrees, but with fewer August extremes than in 2005 or 2003), and lower rainfall. In fact, both the average minimum and average maximum temperatures were higher than the decade average in every month from March to October. There was, however, just about sufficient moisture to keep most of the vines’ thirst slaked, and the lack of August heat spikes meant that there was less “blocking” of

tannin ripening than in 2005. It was a very warm and dry summer but not a stressful one for the vines—unlike 2003 especially, or 2005. There was also no “heat wave” as such, and the nights remained relatively cool, maintaining the acidity in the grapes and allowing the aromas to develop rather than disappear.

Harvest: six weeks of almost uninterrupted blue skies and sunshine. Easy! Dry-white harvest This took place early in September in perfect conditions. Sweet-white harvest This also proceeded under cloudless skies, over a remarkably short period. Such abundant and healthy botrytis set in so rapidly after the modest rain on September 19 and 20 that most properties picked the bulk of their grapes as one giant trie between September 28 and October 9.

2009bOrDEAux MAGIC

bOrDEAux MuSCLEAll are agreed that it is a stellar red-wine vintage,

but it is far more heterogenous in style than many people realize. Following his annual château tastings, Michael Schuster shares his

view of the vintage and recommends the top wines for quality and value. Additional commentary and notes by

Michel Bettane and Thierry DesseauveO

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(94%). Interestingly, while Petit Mouton is

usually served after d’armailhac and Clerc

Milon, just before Mouton itself, this year it

was offered first. one can see why. Pleasing

rather than special. 2013–20. 15.5/16?

Château pédesclaux – 16.5/17

MB/TD: Super-ripe black fruit explodes from

the glass. wonderfully smooth on the palate,

round, well-balanced, with nice acidity. The

tannins are perceptible but perfectly

integrated into this balanced wine. a new

direction for this property, which was bought

just a few months ago by Monsieur

Lorenzetti, president of the racing rugby

team, who already owns Château Lilian-

Ladouys. 16.5/17

Château pibran Cru Bourgeois – 15/15.5+

(56% harvest; 60% CS, 40% M)

MS: Freshly ripe, intense blackcurrant nose,

subtle gravel behind; very nicely balanced,

crisply rich, vital middleweight, with a very

restrained tannin; a nice mid-palate

complexity and excellent cassis fruit length.

Fresh, complete Pibran. 2014–20+. 15/15.5+

Château pichon-Longueville Baron 2ème

Cru – 18

(45% harvest; 66% CS, 33% M)

MB/TD: beautiful color, but the wine isn’t

quite in place yet: the volume on the palate

is immense, but the Merlot is weighing

down the wine now and hiding the usual

minerality found in this terroir. The élevage

should be followed closely, since, given the

dimension of the wine, it should come

together nicely. 17.5+

MS: dense, ripe blackberry/blackcurrant and

subtle, mineral nose; promises a wonderful

cassis bouquet! great scope and range just

to smell. beautifully balanced, supple yet

fresh, rich and finely tannic wine, an

effortless, grand-scale balance; sweetly ripe

fruit, fresh definition, no hard edges; long,

close-wrought, gravelly, mouth-coating,

gently spicy, resonantly aromatic. a very

fine, aristocratic baron, with great fruit and

mineral length. Probably its finest wine for a

couple of generations. 2020–40+. 18/18.5

tourelles de Longueville – 15/15+

(33% harvest; 60% M, 25% CS, 15% CF)

MS: Sweet but freshly ripe blackberry fruit

nose, where you notice the new wood just

a touch; very nicely balanced, quite

concentrated middleweight; overall supple,

but with a very gentle, dry tannin; ripe yet

fresh, moderately complex, spicy, easy, and

accessible without being simple, and with

good, scented, fruit length; very nice lesser

Pauillac—with all the fruit of the year, but the

lesser structure to make it attractive early.

2012–18. 15/15+

Château pichon Longueville Comtesse de

Lalande 2ème Cru – 17.5/18

(37% harvest; 75% CS, 20% M, 5% PV)

MB/TD: Exceptionally refined wine, powerful,

with subtle flavors, long tannins—definitely

one of the best wines of the past 30 years

from this property. 17.5/18

MS: rich, blackcurrant, Cabernet nose;

nicely but not excessively concentrated

middleweight, generous, fleshy, fresh; a very

fine-grained tannin around an abundantly,

juicily, freshly ripe blackcurrant fruit; long,

velvety, gracious, and subtly mouth-coating,

with a fine gravel scent behind the ripe fruit

and great length on the finish—as in the best

of these wines, an extraordinary fruit length

alongside the aromas. Tasty yet restrained

splendor. 2020–35+. 17.5/18

Réserve de la Comtesse – 16/16.5+

(50% harvest; 53% CS, 38% M, 9% CF)

MS: a spicy, blackcurrant fruit on the nose;

very nicely balanced, elegant middleweight

with a fine-grained, light, dry tannin; vivid,

freshly ripe fruit flavor, crisp and sweet and

long; a fine, firm, linear claret with remarkable

length for a second wine, which suggests a

fine, long aging curve. wonderful freshness,

definition, and persistence, doubtless due in

large measure to the fact that all the vividly

fragrant Cabernet Franc went into this.

Lovely! 2017–30. 16/16.5+

Château pontet-Canet 5ème Cru – 18

(70% harvest; 65% CS, 30% M, 4% CF, 1% PV)

MB/TD: The property has opted for purity

and elegance over massive structure in this

vintage, and it was an excellent choice. our

entire team was enamored with the natural

aromas and the superlative finesse of its

tannins. a very complete wine, and a perfect

example of the customary triumph of david

over goliath. 19

MS: a very ripe, jellied, blackberry, sweet

Merlot fruit to smell, with Cabernet spice as

well; rich and fresh, beautifully balanced in

the characteristic style of the year; very

finely tannic texture and lively acidity; a

delicious mass of sweet core fruit, generous,

fleshy, vivid, long across the palate, with a

refined Pauillac tannin and muscle—a gentle

muscle—and with excellent length of fruit

and gently minerally aromas. Very fine,

complete Pontet-Canet. 2020–35+. 17/17.5+

St-Julien

MB/TD: we were delighted by the overall

quality in this appellation, and it’s with a bit

of regret that, through the 20-point system,

we are obliged to create a hierarchy of

the wines. Power, concentration without

heaviness, graceful and elegant tannins—it’s

all there, in every wine, even the second

wines, or as they are now being called, the

“other” wines.

Château Beychevelle 4ème Cru – 16.5

(50% harvest; 46% CS, 44% M, 6% CF, 4% PV)

MB/TD: Starts out with some very pretty

oak: not super-concentrated given the year,

but with a wonderfully refined texture and

fresh tannins, this is elegant Cabernet

harvested at perfect ripeness, long,

distinguished, harmonious, but not quite as

good as the very best of the second

growths. 17

MS: Mineral and fresh, ripe-fruit nose; very

nicely balanced, elegant, supple wine,

moderately concentrated, with fine, gentle

tannin and fresh acidity; ripe, easy, juicy, and

fragrant St-Julien, very beychevelle; gentle

complexity, good sweet fruit, light minerality

and sweet, cedary length. Complete,

restrained, and quietly classy. Classic, easy,

gratifying-without-being-grand beychevelle.

will be nice early on because it has such

a graceful, easygoing personality. Perfect,

lighter-style claret. 2015–25+. 16/16+

Château Branaire 4ème Cru – 17.5

(65% CS, 28% M, 4% PV, 3% CF)

MB/TD: The most well behaved of all the

St-Juliens wines we tasted, offering great

substance and perfectly controlled tannins

and great aromatic diversity. a great wine in

this great vintage. 18

MS: a fine, fruit-packed nose of ripe

blackberry and mineral; very nicely balanced

indeed. rich, with a fairly firm but beautifully

textured tannin alongside the year’s fresh

acidity; lovely concentration, long, ripe,

dry and gravelly, complex and generous—

classic, harmonious, middleweight claret; a

restrained power with a great tenacity of

flavor and excellent length. a joyous fruit

mass at its heart, yet all the elegance of fine

St-Julien. a beauty; a very complete branaire.

2018–30+. 16.5/17

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2ème Cru – 18.5

(85% CS, 15% M)

MB/TD: There is no doubt that this is the

best wine they’ve made in the past 50 years,

and it’s one of the chefs d’oeuvres of the

vintage: its harmonious power and refined

fragrance and the taffeta-like quality of the

tannins can serve as an example for Cabernet

Sauvignons the world over. 19.5

MS: I was disappointed in this the first time

around (and the wine was guaranteed as its

final assembly) so retasted a week later.

Very mineral to smell; gentle, persistent, ripe

fruit; elegantly concentrated middleweight

wine, harmonious and very finely balanced,

with a delicately dry tannin and fresh

acidity; sweet fruit and subtle minerality in

flavor, restrained, gentlemanly, poised, and

complex, with the usual quiet class and

very refined tannin texture; long in the

mouth, with a prolonged fruit and aroma

persistence. a quiet power in effect and a

lovely, warm, fragrantly sweet length. will

keep for ages but likely to be accessible

relatively early. not a showy opulence and

not as rich as many—everything sotto voce—

but all the text is there; a persistent and

complete presence. 2018–35+. 17.5/18

La Croix de Beaucaillou – 18

MB/TD: This “other” wine from beaucaillou

is very impressive this year, with a super-rich

core and precisely, skillfully extracted

2 0 0 9 b o r d E a U x

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L’Amateur de Bordeaux - Juin/Juillet/Août 2010L’Amateur de Bordeaux - Juin/Juillet/Août 2010

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Le blog du Grand Jury

Bordeaux primeurs 2009 : notes du GJE

Comme l'an dernier, pour ceux que cela intŽresse, vous trouverez ci-dessous la moyenne des notes des 3 dŽgustateurs du GJE qui "font" l'ensemble des dŽgustations primeurs : Abi Duhr, Bernard Burtschy, Jacques Perrin. La quasi totalitŽ de ces vins a ŽtŽ dŽgustŽ par ces 3 membres du GJE.

Pontet-Canet Ð Pauillac - 93

Le blog du Grand Jury Ð 07 juin 2010

Le blog du Grand Jury

Bordeaux primeurs 2009 : notes du GJE

Comme l'an dernier, pour ceux que cela intŽresse, vous trouverez ci-dessous la moyenne des notes des 3 dŽgustateurs du GJE qui "font" l'ensemble des dŽgustations primeurs : Abi Duhr, Bernard Burtschy, Jacques Perrin. La quasi totalitŽ de ces vins a ŽtŽ dŽgustŽ par ces 3 membres du GJE.

Pontet-Canet Ð Pauillac - 93

Le blog du Grand Jury Ð 07 juin 2010

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Latest News

Bordeaux 2009: Flood of releases as L'Evangile, Malescot triple '08 pricesJune 17, 2010by Jane Anson in Bordeaux

With a flood of Bordeaux chateaux releasing their 2009 vintages, prices are reaching unprecedented levels.

Malescot Saint Exupery, a Margaux second growth that is traditionally fairly low profile but scored 95-97 with Parker this year, rose 150% on its 2008 price, coming out at Đ55 ex-Bordeaux.

L'Evangile in Pomerol received 96-100 from Parker, and rose in price to Đ180 ex-Bordeaux, again tripling its 2008 price, and doubling that of 2005.

More major chateaux are now starting to release, with recent prices including Petit Mouton (second wine of Mouton Rothschild) at Đ60 ex Bordeaux (up 33% on 2005), and Forts de Latour (second wine of Latour) at Đ89 ex-Bordeaux (up 85% on 2005.)

Also released were Chateau d'Issan (Đ39.60), Canon La Gaffeliere (Đ59), Chateau Clinet (Đ70), Chateau Beychevelle (Đ44), Chateau Rauzan Segla (Đ60), and Chateau Lagrange (Đ37.20).

Troplong Mondot - which scored highly with Robert Parker but was criticised for high alcohol by many others - stayed unchanged from its 2005 price at Đ90 (a rise of 118% from 2008).

Reactions to the prices from inside and outside Bordeaux are mixed.

Sylvie Cazes, director of the Union des Grand Crus and owner of Lynch Bages, told decanter.com: 'The campaign is going very well. Most people are very happy and the majority of wines are selling through the chain very quickly.'

Many UK merchants are reporting that they are finding it tough to meet demand.

Neil Pinel, Managing Director of Dunnell's Wines in Jersey said: 'Orders are piling in this morning for Bordeaux 09s, and I'm struggling to get enough stock'.

In Hong Kong, Berry Bros is reporting that its entire allocation of Pontet Canet (Đ72 first tranche, Đ85 second tranche) sold out in less than two hours.

Others merchants, however, are sounding notes of alarm – though few wish to be named.

One merchant in Holland said, 'I hate these prices, and worry that this is all leading to a crash', while a leading UK merchant commented: 'If the Bordelais believe correct pricing means pricing at the very lip of the precipice, they have done well.'

'If they aim to give their customers a return on their purchase, they have failed miserably. Of my top 20 customers, 17 have bought nothing. Nor will they. Apply that nationally and Bordeaux is digging a vast hole for itself. Unless it plans to relocate to Asia that is,' he said.

More major releases are expected over the next few days.

Follow us on Twitter

Related links: LIVE: see the prices as they're released Released Bordeaux 2009 prices Full Decanter Bordeaux 2009 scores and tasting notes Bordeaux: the big five questions

Have your say...To post your comment on this story, email us at [email protected]

Page 1 sur 2Bordeaux 2009: Flood of releases as L'Evangile, Malescot triple '08 prices - decanter....

18/06/2010http://www.decanter.com/news/299256.html

Latest News

Bordeaux 2009: Flood of releases as L'Evangile, Malescot triple '08 pricesJune 17, 2010by Jane Anson in Bordeaux

With a flood of Bordeaux chateaux releasing their 2009 vintages, prices are reaching unprecedented levels.

Malescot Saint Exupery, a Margaux second growth that is traditionally fairly low profile but scored 95-97 with Parker this year, rose 150% on its 2008 price, coming out at Đ55 ex-Bordeaux.

L'Evangile in Pomerol received 96-100 from Parker, and rose in price to Đ180 ex-Bordeaux, again tripling its 2008 price, and doubling that of 2005.

More major chateaux are now starting to release, with recent prices including Petit Mouton (second wine of Mouton Rothschild) at Đ60 ex Bordeaux (up 33% on 2005), and Forts de Latour (second wine of Latour) at Đ89 ex-Bordeaux (up 85% on 2005.)

Also released were Chateau d'Issan (Đ39.60), Canon La Gaffeliere (Đ59), Chateau Clinet (Đ70), Chateau Beychevelle (Đ44), Chateau Rauzan Segla (Đ60), and Chateau Lagrange (Đ37.20).

Troplong Mondot - which scored highly with Robert Parker but was criticised for high alcohol by many others - stayed unchanged from its 2005 price at Đ90 (a rise of 118% from 2008).

Reactions to the prices from inside and outside Bordeaux are mixed.

Sylvie Cazes, director of the Union des Grand Crus and owner of Lynch Bages, told decanter.com: 'The campaign is going very well. Most people are very happy and the majority of wines are selling through the chain very quickly.'

Many UK merchants are reporting that they are finding it tough to meet demand.

Neil Pinel, Managing Director of Dunnell's Wines in Jersey said: 'Orders are piling in this morning for Bordeaux 09s, and I'm struggling to get enough stock'.

In Hong Kong, Berry Bros is reporting that its entire allocation of Pontet Canet (Đ72 first tranche, Đ85 second tranche) sold out in less than two hours.

Others merchants, however, are sounding notes of alarm – though few wish to be named.

One merchant in Holland said, 'I hate these prices, and worry that this is all leading to a crash', while a leading UK merchant commented: 'If the Bordelais believe correct pricing means pricing at the very lip of the precipice, they have done well.'

'If they aim to give their customers a return on their purchase, they have failed miserably. Of my top 20 customers, 17 have bought nothing. Nor will they. Apply that nationally and Bordeaux is digging a vast hole for itself. Unless it plans to relocate to Asia that is,' he said.

More major releases are expected over the next few days.

Follow us on Twitter


Have your say...To post your comment on this story, email us at [email protected]

Page 1 sur 2Bordeaux 2009: Flood of releases as L'Evangile, Malescot triple '08 prices - decanter....


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Latest News

Demand not matching Bordeaux 2009 hype, say US merchantsJune 17, 2010by Panos Kakaviatos

American merchants are reporting seeing little consumer demand as Bordeaux 2009 en primeur prices continue to be released.

Reacting to the releases so far this week, several US merchants have said that despite the hype surrounding the vintage, sales are below what they'd expected.

'This is not like 2001, when the 2000 campaign was underway and clients had not seen a great vintage in a while,' said Elliott Staren, owner of Wide World of Wines in Washington D.C.

'People have full cellars already; they bought 2003s, 2005s, some 2006s, and they have not even received their 2008s.'

At Premier Cru in California, senior wine seller Michael Glasby agreed.

'People with an interest to sell the wine are trying to build the hype. The hype is almost identical [to the 2005 and 2000 vintages], but on the other side, the demand side is nothing like it was for the 2005, and even less so than for the 2000 [upon release].

'There is greater sobriety on the part of the consumer,' he said.

Some wines are selling through, however. Sellers also notice a vivid correlation between high Parker scores and prices - 'more than we have seen before,' Glasby said.

Despite the price hike, Potential 100-point Parker wines such as Pontet Canet, have sold through, both merchants said.

'It seems we have done well with Pontet Canet in the last couple of days, Glasby said. 'At just under $100,' he added, stressing the initial price.

Other wines so far released have gotten mixed reviews.

For Staren, wines like Grand Puy Lacoste, Gruaud Larose and Giscours with somewhat lower Parker numbers are seeing little demand, although Glasby says that these wines are doing 'rather well' for Premier Cru.

Another worry is if the euro falls further against the dollar by the time 2009s are on the shelf, which is a 'disincentive' for buying futures, Glasby said.

On the other hand 'the big mystery is China,' he added. 'If the Chinese are going to buy these wines upon release, then the interest is to buy now.'


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Latest News

Demand not matching Bordeaux 2009 hype, say US merchantsJune 17, 2010by Panos Kakaviatos

American merchants are reporting seeing little consumer demand as Bordeaux 2009 en primeur prices continue to be released.

Reacting to the releases so far this week, several US merchants have said that despite the hype surrounding the vintage, sales are below what they'd expected.

'This is not like 2001, when the 2000 campaign was underway and clients had not seen a great vintage in a while,' said Elliott Staren, owner of Wide World of Wines in Washington D.C.

'People have full cellars already; they bought 2003s, 2005s, some 2006s, and they have not even received their 2008s.'

At Premier Cru in California, senior wine seller Michael Glasby agreed.

'People with an interest to sell the wine are trying to build the hype. The hype is almost identical [to the 2005 and 2000 vintages], but on the other side, the demand side is nothing like it was for the 2005, and even less so than for the 2000 [upon release].

'There is greater sobriety on the part of the consumer,' he said.

Some wines are selling through, however. Sellers also notice a vivid correlation between high Parker scores and prices - 'more than we have seen before,' Glasby said.

Despite the price hike, Potential 100-point Parker wines such as Pontet Canet, have sold through, both merchants said.

'It seems we have done well with Pontet Canet in the last couple of days, Glasby said. 'At just under $100,' he added, stressing the initial price.

Other wines so far released have gotten mixed reviews.

For Staren, wines like Grand Puy Lacoste, Gruaud Larose and Giscours with somewhat lower Parker numbers are seeing little demand, although Glasby says that these wines are doing 'rather well' for Premier Cru.

Another worry is if the euro falls further against the dollar by the time 2009s are on the shelf, which is a 'disincentive' for buying futures, Glasby said.

On the other hand 'the big mystery is China,' he added. 'If the Chinese are going to buy these wines upon release, then the interest is to buy now.'


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Page 1 sur 2Demand not matching Bordeaux 2009 hype, say US merchants - decanter.com - the r...


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Le Figaro - 29 Juin 2010

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Figaro Plus - 29 juin 2010

Figaro Plus - 29 juin 2010

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Gault Millau - Juin/Juillet/Août 2010

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FT Home > Weekend > Weekend columnists > Jancis Robinson

Eye-watering prices

Some notable prices per bottle from châteaux to negociants:

Le Pin Đ1,050

Cheval Blanc Đ900

Ausone Đ800

HautBrion, Latour Đ600

Lafite, Margaux, MoutonĐ550

Source: Liv-ex. com

Bordeaux 2009s: there’s a price to payBy Jancis Robinson Published: July 3 2010 00:13 | Last updated: July 3 2010 00:13

Even Bordeaux’s château owners admit to surprise at the sky high prices of the 2009s, in a testy campaign designed to attract as many euros as possible to France’s fine wine capital. The campaign is finally drawing to a close, in time for France’s long holidays, with some UK merchants even suggesting 2009 prices are designed to prop up those of the 2005s.

Four years ago the prices for Bordeaux’s last exceptional vintage, 2005, seemed quite extraordinarily audacious and we thought we would never see their like again. But, in the event, embryonic, unbottled 2009s have been offered at prices between 50 per cent and 100 per cent up on 2005 opening prices, and some are even approaching 2005 current prices.

What is sure is that the 2009 prices make the 2008 vintage look like the bargain of the decade. The 2008 versions of the first growths, the most famous wines of all and a sort of price barometer for any vintage, were initially offered to Bordeaux negociants, or merchants, at around Đ100 a bottle. This may seem like robust pricing by any measure but the opening prices for the 2009 first growths varied between Đ450 for Lafite, Margaux and Mouton and Đ500 for Latour and Haut-Brion.

However, these prices for the first tranche of wine from each property tell only a small part of the story. The top châteaux have got into the habit of offering their young, unbottled wines in at least two tranches during the primeur campaign, with demand for the first tranche dictating the price of the second. This year the first growth tranches were smaller than ever, making it impossible for those merchants around the world who bought it to set a price until the second tranche had been announced, generally at Đ100, Đ200 for Cheval, above the first. The really scary thing is that demand for the top wines seems to have been as exceptional as the vintage itself even if it is not clear how many people are buying to drink and how many for investment.

To observers, the process of offering this particular vintage has seemed either infuriating or absurd, depending on their interest in actually buying the wines produced by the exceptionally propitious growing conditions of 2009. Never before have so many second wines been dripped on to the market in a coy attempt to gauge demand for their more serious stablemates.

The negociants say the bulk of sales have been to merchants and traders in the UK – even if many are banking on selling them on to Asia. As eighth generation Bordeaux merchant Pierre Lawton of Alias put it: “England has been massive. I’ve been surprised by how important the UK has been. Sales to the US have been much more modest than usual, although the weaker euro has helped.”

This is not the only thing that has surprised him about the 2009 primeur campaign. “I thought demand would be spread across the board in terms of quality but it’s been much more weighted towards the top end. In fact it has been quite difficult to sell wines below Đ40 a bottle ... There seems to have been a lot of speculative buying.”

Below the top rank, prices have been all over the place. Some châteaux sold out immediately – Pontet-Canet, offered initially to the negociants at Đ72 (exactly the same as Léoville-Poyferré, Lynch-Bages and Montrose), was a particular success this year with owner Alfred Tesseron able to place his entire and substantial offering in 30 minutes. Ducru-Beaucaillou and Figeac on the other hand struggled to find buyers at their respective prices of Đ180 and Đ160, nearly three times the 2008 opening price.

Pricing is clearly critical, although the means by which it is arrived at is still decidedly quaint, relying as it does on hundreds of oblique discussions between producers, Bordeaux’s 300 negociants, and the 93 courtiers, or brokers, who negotiate between them. It would be more than a broker’s career was worth to let slip a producer’s intended opening price before it was announced or, worse, exactly how many cases were on offer in total.

Partly to retain this mystery, château owners use several different brokers to sell one year’s wine. The most important quality in a broker, who receives a flat two per cent commission from the negociant, is tact. They have to mediate between owners who invariably want to ask too much for their wines and what the key negociants say they feel the wine is worth. As Tesseron says: “If I price my wine too low, everyone thinks my wine is bad. If I price my wine too high, everyone thinks I’m mad. The brokers’ job is to translate, in a very polite way, what I say.”

Prices are typically announced in the early morning in France. After a series of calls to each individual negociant, the broker reports back to the anxious château owner. The bull's-eye is for all negociants to place orders immediately for their entire allocation. “I’ll think it over,” is circumlocutory Bordeaux wine trade speak for a sniggering, “You cannot be serious”.

Prize for the most ambitious price rises this year goes to the Haut-Brion stable whose opening price of Đ540 for La Mission Haut-Brion is nearly three times more than the 2005 opening price, as shown on the revealing tables on www.liv-ex.com while, as usual, the LVMH effect has inflated the price of Cheval Blanc to a truly luxurious level.

Are 2009s overpriced? One prominent, Bordeaux wine negociant confessed to me last week that his wife, reacting like so many others to the combination of low interest rates and the general excitement over the 2009 vintage, had been urging him to use his specialist knowledge

FB

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Special Offer for FT.com readersGet 15 per cent off membership of Jancis Robinson’s Purple Pages. For £59, $84, Đ64, Aus$119 a year FT readers will get top recommendations, discuss wines with other members and enjoy unlimited access to the world’s only online versions of the award-winning classic Oxford Companion to Wine and the sensationally detailed maps of the World Atlas of Wine. Enter FT75K in the promotional code box to get 12 months’ full membership of purple pages at our special rate

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16/08/2010http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/a2db3f3a-8560-11df-aa2e-00144feabdc0.html

juilletFT Home > Weekend > Weekend columnists > Jancis Robinson

Eye-watering prices

Some notable prices per bottle from châteaux to negociants:

Le Pin Đ1,050

Cheval Blanc Đ900

Ausone Đ800

HautBrion, Latour Đ600

Lafite, Margaux, MoutonĐ550

Source: Liv-ex. com

Bordeaux 2009s: there’s a price to payBy Jancis Robinson Published: July 3 2010 00:13 | Last updated: July 3 2010 00:13

Even Bordeaux’s château owners admit to surprise at the sky high prices of the 2009s, in a testy campaign designed to attract as many euros as possible to France’s fine wine capital. The campaign is finally drawing to a close, in time for France’s long holidays, with some UK merchants even suggesting 2009 prices are designed to prop up those of the 2005s.

Four years ago the prices for Bordeaux’s last exceptional vintage, 2005, seemed quite extraordinarily audacious and we thought we would never see their like again. But, in the event, embryonic, unbottled 2009s have been offered at prices between 50 per cent and 100 per cent up on 2005 opening prices, and some are even approaching 2005 current prices.

What is sure is that the 2009 prices make the 2008 vintage look like the bargain of the decade. The 2008 versions of the first growths, the most famous wines of all and a sort of price barometer for any vintage, were initially offered to Bordeaux negociants, or merchants, at around Đ100 a bottle. This may seem like robust pricing by any measure but the opening prices for the 2009 first growths varied between Đ450 for Lafite, Margaux and Mouton and Đ500 for Latour and Haut-Brion.

However, these prices for the first tranche of wine from each property tell only a small part of the story. The top châteaux have got into the habit of offering their young, unbottled wines in at least two tranches during the primeur campaign, with demand for the first tranche dictating the price of the second. This year the first growth tranches were smaller than ever, making it impossible for those merchants around the world who bought it to set a price until the second tranche had been announced, generally at Đ100, Đ200 for Cheval, above the first. The really scary thing is that demand for the top wines seems to have been as exceptional as the vintage itself even if it is not clear how many people are buying to drink and how many for investment.

To observers, the process of offering this particular vintage has seemed either infuriating or absurd, depending on their interest in actually buying the wines produced by the exceptionally propitious growing conditions of 2009. Never before have so many second wines been dripped on to the market in a coy attempt to gauge demand for their more serious stablemates.

The negociants say the bulk of sales have been to merchants and traders in the UK – even if many are banking on selling them on to Asia. As eighth generation Bordeaux merchant Pierre Lawton of Alias put it: “England has been massive. I’ve been surprised by how important the UK has been. Sales to the US have been much more modest than usual, although the weaker euro has helped.”

This is not the only thing that has surprised him about the 2009 primeur campaign. “I thought demand would be spread across the board in terms of quality but it’s been much more weighted towards the top end. In fact it has been quite difficult to sell wines below Đ40 a bottle ... There seems to have been a lot of speculative buying.”

Below the top rank, prices have been all over the place. Some châteaux sold out immediately – Pontet-Canet, offered initially to the negociants at Đ72 (exactly the same as Léoville-Poyferré, Lynch-Bages and Montrose), was a particular success this year with owner Alfred Tesseron able to place his entire and substantial offering in 30 minutes. Ducru-Beaucaillou and Figeac on the other hand struggled to find buyers at their respective prices of Đ180 and Đ160, nearly three times the 2008 opening price.

Pricing is clearly critical, although the means by which it is arrived at is still decidedly quaint, relying as it does on hundreds of oblique discussions between producers, Bordeaux’s 300 negociants, and the 93 courtiers, or brokers, who negotiate between them. It would be more than a broker’s career was worth to let slip a producer’s intended opening price before it was announced or, worse, exactly how many cases were on offer in total.

Partly to retain this mystery, château owners use several different brokers to sell one year’s wine. The most important quality in a broker, who receives a flat two per cent commission from the negociant, is tact. They have to mediate between owners who invariably want to ask too much for their wines and what the key negociants say they feel the wine is worth. As Tesseron says: “If I price my wine too low, everyone thinks my wine is bad. If I price my wine too high, everyone thinks I’m mad. The brokers’ job is to translate, in a very polite way, what I say.”

Prices are typically announced in the early morning in France. After a series of calls to each individual negociant, the broker reports back to the anxious château owner. The bull's-eye is for all negociants to place orders immediately for their entire allocation. “I’ll think it over,” is circumlocutory Bordeaux wine trade speak for a sniggering, “You cannot be serious”.

Prize for the most ambitious price rises this year goes to the Haut-Brion stable whose opening price of Đ540 for La Mission Haut-Brion is nearly three times more than the 2005 opening price, as shown on the revealing tables on www.liv-ex.com while, as usual, the LVMH effect has inflated the price of Cheval Blanc to a truly luxurious level.

Are 2009s overpriced? One prominent, Bordeaux wine negociant confessed to me last week that his wife, reacting like so many others to the combination of low interest rates and the general excitement over the 2009 vintage, had been urging him to use his specialist knowledge

FB

FT LexiconFT Bespoke ForumsMarket researchGrowth companiesCorporate subscriptionsLuxury Travel brochuresAnalyst Research

MBA-Direct.comFT Newspaper subscriptionsFT DiariesFT ConferencesFT Syndication servicesThe Non-Executive Director

FROM PINK TO PURPLE

Special Offer for FT.com readersGet 15 per cent off membership of Jancis Robinson’s Purple Pages. For £59, $84, Đ64, Aus$119 a year FT readers will get top recommendations, discuss wines with other members and enjoy unlimited access to the world’s only online versions of the award-winning classic Oxford Companion to Wine and the sensationally detailed maps of the World Atlas of Wine. Enter FT75K in the promotional code box to get 12 months’ full membership of purple pages at our special rate

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to invest in it. “I’m not buying any 2009s,” he told me firmly, adding, “Not now anyway. Maybe later.”

See tasting notes on more than 500 2009 bordeaux on the Purple pages of www.jancisrobinson.com

More columns at www.ft.com/robinson

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51

2009

Les Echos série limitée - 09 Juillet 2010

Les Echos série limitée - 09 Juillet 2010Les Echos série limitée - 09 Juillet 2010

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Page 3 sur 5Farr Vintners Blog

24/08/2010http://www.farrvintners.com/blog.php?archive=201008







aout

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2009

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2009

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2009

decembre

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decembre

France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2009

90/100

This has a nice balance, good fruit, cinnamon, and other spices on the nose. Full bodied and delicious, hints of milk chocolate and fruit. Lovely balance and a long finish rounds this wine out. Barrel sample. 90+ $$

France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2009

92/100

This is juicy, with notes of berries, plums, mint, and dried flowers. Full bodied, with a silky palate and good length. Overall a very pretty and balanced wine. Barrel sample. 92+ $$

December 31th, 2010

The 2009 vintage is the greatest modern vintage of our time for Bordeaux. Believe in the hype.

Over the last five months, I have traveled to Bordeaux twice and retasted 2009 barrel samples of the top 50 or so wineries, and I have been blown away how the wines have improved. “The wines keep getting better and better,” says Alfred Tesseron, the owner of Pauillac’s Pontet Canet, one of the stars of the vintage – and I have to agree.

I began tasting 2009 Bordeaux in March 2010. The reds show amazing intensity with opulent fruit and ultra-ripe tannins, yet they remain fresh and crisp at the same time. It’s that contrast in structure that defines great Bordeaux. The dry whites are also excellent as are the sweet wines.

It’s not by chance that the usually conservative Christian Moueix, whose family owns such wine estates as Petrus, Trotanoy, La Fleur-Petrus, Hosanna, Magdelaine and others, calls 2009 “the vintage of his career.”

Granted, the top wines are insanely expensive. It’s hard to believe that people around the world – many in the Far East -- are willing to spend up to $5,000 a bottle for some 2009s such as Petrus. Most of the first growths are selling between $2,000 and $1,000 a bottle. Second growths, such as Ducru-Beaucaillou and Cos d’Estournel, are trading for about $280 to $350 a bottle.

I kept reminding myself that it’s only wine, and it’s their money. But I have to wonder how much of this is bought for investment and how much is for consumption? That’s another blog.

The excitement for me with 2009 will be finding all the lesser-known wines at great prices. That’s what Bordeaux drinkers should focus on this year when the less famous 2009s start arriving on the market.

I will be in Bordeaux numerous times this year to discover the gems for $15 to $40 a bottle. I will also be tasting the big name 2009s in December. These will begin arriving in bottle on the market in 2012.

I remember all the great values in 2005, 2003, 2000 and older vintages. It’s going to be fun. In fact, I still have some beautiful 1989 crus bourgeois that are drinking beautifully now. I drank a delicious 1989 Lafon Rochet for lunch today and it showed beautiful character of Indian spices, dried dark fruits and forest floor. It was balanced and refined, with delicate fruit. It was really fresh.

The 2009 vintage is a year that anyone who loves Bordeaux is going to want to have a few bottles or cases of these tremendous wines in their cellar.

The following wines were tasted from barrel in Bordeaux. The scores represent ranges with a plus sign, such as 93+/100. It means a wine shows the potential to be 93 points or more out of 100 points when it is finally bottled.

Page 1 sur 9James Suckling | Reports

06/01/2011http://www.jamessuckling.com/tasting-report-2009-bordeaux.html

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2009

98/100

This is more intense on the nose than the 2000, with blackberries, currant bush, and flowers. Amazing pure Cabernet nose. Big and dense, yet agile with polished powerful tannins. It is showing wonderful length. A fabulous wine here. A super clean 1990, which was one of the great Montroses. Barrel sample. 98+ $$

France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2009

98/100

Beautiful aromas of blackberries, minerals, cassis, and mint. This is phenomenal stuff. I remember tasting this in March, and thinking it was gorgeous then, but it is fabulous now. Truly classic young wine. Barrel sample. 98+ $$

France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2009

98/100

This is a departure from the old style of Palmer. It is flamboyant and exciting now. It is not shy any more. The nose jumps out of the glass with blackberries, blueberries, chocolate, and hints of vanilla. Full bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, long finish. This is so intense with a spice and blueberry character from the Petit Verdot (7%) and the rest from the Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. This is the best young wine I have ever tasted from here. Barrel sample. 98+ $$

France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2009

98/100

This is big and powerful. A muscular Petrus with broad shoulders and toned tannins. Nice deep fruit, with lots of plums and dark berries. I am very impressed with the length and power in this wine. It is supple and fresh. A masterful wine showing great density. Barrel sample. 98+ $$

France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2009

98/100

Amazing nose and complexity and minerals, tars, lead blackberries, and blueberries. What intensity. Full body with amazing balance and precision. Dense and wonderful. What clarity and beauty. Long finish. 98+ $$

France

Sauternes

Other Varietal

2009

98/100

This is intense and very rich with a very sweet tropical fruit character from mangos, pineapples, and papayas. Full bodied and lively, with so much going on. I love the intensity to this. The botrytis is almost burning. Barrel sample. 98+ $$

France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2009

98/100

This has a phenomenal nose, with raspberries, blueberries, and blackberries. Perfect. The concentration is phenomenal, and paired with great depth and charm, it goes on for minutes. I am shocked. I underestimated this the first time I tasted it from barrel. Barrel sample. 98+ $$



61

2008

janvier

62

2008

mars

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2008

France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2008

90/100

This is the first year of Lynch-Bages's second wine with this name. There is a rich berry character in this wine, think strawberries, cherries, and raspberries. Full bodied, with fine tannins and a lovely fresh finish. So yummy now. Why wait.

France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2008

90/100

This wine has some spice and berry aromas and flavors. Full and round with a slight bitterness at the end reminiscent of coffee beans and spices. Long and beautiful. So nice now but better in two or three years. This is 90 percent Merlot.

December 20th, 2010

If you love drinking Bordeaux, you are going to love 2008. I just finished tasting a few hundred of the top names from France’s premium wine region, and I was impressed with the overall quality of the wines. Another good thing is most of them cost 30 to 50 percent less than current prices for the same wines in 2009.

I spent about a week in Bordeaux tasting bottled reds, dry whites and Sauternes, both in blind tastings at my hotel and in the cellars of chateaux. I found about 120 outstanding quality wines that I rated 90 points or more. Eight of the wines I score 95 points or more.

My two top wines were white Haut-Brion and Ausone. These are both legends in the own rights in just about every vintage – and 2008 was no different. The Haut-Brion is the standard bearer for dry whites in the region and is one of the best whites on earth. The 2008 is classy and ultra-refined, with wonderful intensity and power.

By comparison, Ausone’s 2008 is all about breeding and depth of fruit – particularly the Cabernet Franc in the blend – and shows an uncanny balance between power and finesse. I scored both 96 points.

The other top wines in my tasting included: Cheval Blanc, Lafite Rothschid, Latour, Léoville Las Cases, and Pavie. I scored all of them 95 points. Just after, at 94 points were: Ducru-Beaucaillou, Haut-Brion, L'Église Clinet, Montrose, Pavie-Decesse, Pétrus, Domaine de Chevalier (white), and Vieux-Château-Certan.

What I like about the wines is their wonderfully enticing aromas of flowers, dark fruits and minerals and earth. The top wines are a joy to smell. They entice you like a vase full of beautiful roses in your house.

The palates of the wines are equally attractive. They are not full throttle like 2009, but reserved and lively. They are dense wines, but not thick and muscular. Some people may find them two restrained and firm, especially if they prefer rich and high alcohol red. But if they like outstanding, typical Bordeaux reds from a cool (meaning less hot weather during the growing season) vintage, then 2008 is a vintage to seriously consider.

Most of the wines in this tasting report need about three to four years of bottle age to start to be considered approachable for drinking. But six to seven years in bottle would be better. Most of the Bordeaux winemakers I spoke to said that their wines would be great for another 10, 20 or even 30 years. The two vintages most often compared were 1988 and 2001. I am more comfortable comparing 2008 with 2001, which was particularly strong on the Right Bank. The wines in 2001 have always been balanced and fresh as well as good values

Indeed, the 2008 vintage offers many excellent values. The most obvious seems to be super second growths such as Ducru-Beaucaillou or Cos d’Estournel. These wines in 2008 may cost about $125 or so a bottle, while in 2009 they make be more than double that price.

Most of the wines in this report are still not delivered. So if you buy now, be sure to buy from a reputable wine merchant.



France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2008

93/100

Palmer knows what to do. Plenty of blackberry and licorice aromas and flavors follow through to full body, with chewy tannins and a vanilla, cedar and chocolate aftertaste. Needs time to mellow. Layered and beautiful. Best after 2012. $$

France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2008

93/100

I love the nose of sweet tobacco, currants, minerals, flowers, and stones. Full bodied, with dark chocolate flavors, silky tannins, and beautiful fruit. Long and beautiful, with a succulent finish and a great overall balance. Best in three or four years.

France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2008

93/100

Wonderful aromas of raw meat, blueberries and cherries. Full body, with a solid core of fruit and dense polished tannins. Long and beautiful. It’s all in reserve. Give it four to five years. This is really structured for the year. Extremely well done! $$

France

Bordeaux Blend

2008

93/100

Bright and focused with a wonderful mineral, pineapple, cream and slice apple character on the nose and palate. Full bodied, with a beautiful balance of fruit and acidity with a dense palate. It’s long and classy. Best after 2012. $$

France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2008

93/100

Bright and focused with a wonderful mineral, pineapple, cream and slice apple character on the nose and palate. Full bodied, with a beautiful balance of fruit and acidity with a dense palate. It’s long and classy. Best after 2012. $$

France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Blend

2008

93/100

The wine shows plenty of tobacco and vanilla character with chocolate and berries. Full body, with super fine tannins. It’s so long and refined. It’s a divergence from the big, powerful style of the past. This is a beauty and needs at least three years of bottle age. $$



decembre

64

2007

mars

65

2007

mars

66

2007

avril

67

2007

mai

68

2007

Cuisine et Vins de France Hors-Serie Special Foires Aux Vins - Sept/Oct 2010

septembre



69

2007

septembre

70

2007

Les Echos - SŽrie LimitŽe Vin Ð 29 octobre 2010

octobre



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Le Grand Guide Des Vins de France Bettane & Desseauve - 2011



Le Grand Guide Des Vins de France Bettane & Desseauve - 2011Le Grand Guide Des Vins de France Bettane & Desseauve - 2011

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The Art of Patience

Wines Worth Waiting For

Tasting Notes: Right Bank

Tasting Notes: Left Bank










A Long-Haul Flight: Bordeaux 2000


2000 Chateau Sociando-Mallet 86Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This has a striking nose: blackberry, burnt match, cold tea, and green pepper. Incongruous to other 2000s, although it has individual charm. I am less keen on the palate, which contains that herbaceous element but it does not knit well with the rest of the palate, as if this wine wants to do two different things and cannot decide whether it was to be a 2000 or a leaner off-vintage. Hard, bitter finish, this is a disappointing showing. Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £420/case.

2000 Chateau Chasse-Spleen 91Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This is reticent on the nose at first, but opens up nicely with time, blackberry, plum, black coffee, cedar and a slight estuarine note. The palate is full-bodied with grippy tannins on the entry, firm backbone and good depth. Stern and masculine, a saline note towards the cedar and tobacco scented, sappy finish. This is a great showing for Chasse Spleen and comes recommended for the vintage. Drink 2012-2030. Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £500/case.

2000 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte 95Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. Taciturn on the nose at first, but coquettishly opening up with pure red-fruits, espresso, cedar and a touch of the old dusty antique bureau. Good definition. The palate is full-bodied, firm tannins, a touch of spice on the entry, a citric thread that counterbalanced the dense, ripe black fruit. This is nowhere near ready, but all the elements are here for a great wine, with notes of blackberry, cedar, graphite wild strawberry and freshly rolled tobacco. Persistent, grippy and utterly convincing. Drink now-2030. Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £500/case.

2000 Chateau Haut-Bailly 90?Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This has a more generous, open-knit nose with aromas of wild strawberry, cherry, Provencal herbs and sandalwood, although it could do with more vigour. Very ripe and generous on the entry, a tad softer than its peers, but very well defined and cohesive, with ripe black cherry, raspberry, soy and citrus fruit towards the finish. Very focused, but perhaps not the breeding of other 2000s? Drink now-2020. Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £500/case.

2000 Domaine de Chevalier 92Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This is much more backwards on the nose, more reductive in style, rather flatter and less vivacious. Leathery black fruits and a touch of wild mushroom. A clean entry on the palate, rounded red-berried fruit, a touch of earth and tobacco, linear and straight-laced, lacking a touch of complexity towards the finish. Returning to my glass, it coalesces and exudes elegance rather than power. Poised and feminine. Drink 2012-2025. Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £420/case.

2000 Chateau Pape-Clement 91+Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. Like the Haut-Bailly ’00, this is just a tad subdued on the nose, earthy with blackberry, mulberry, candle wax, a touch of leather and undergrowth. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, nice cohesion, a saline tang on the entry, the raspberry, cedar, dried herbs and a touch of fennel, building nicely in the mouth to reveal a firm backbone, quite tannic and grippy towards the finish. This should improve. Drink 2016-2035. Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £900/case.

2000 Chateau Brane Cantenac 93Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This Brane-Cantenac is endowed with a

Page 1 sur 5Wine Journal: A Long-Haul Flight: Bordeaux 2000


The Art of Patience
























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Top Of The Crops: Pauillac 2006

July 30th 2006 – “Top Of The Pops” is broadcast for the last time since it was first aired on New Years Day, 1964.Every Thursday night I would sit down to watch Top Of The Pops and digest the weekly pop chart. At that time, Bruno Brookes or Simon Bates run down of the top 40 singles was infinitely more important than say, unemployment figures or inflation. We wanted to know if Phil Collins was in the top ten or whether Duran Duran were still number one. Most of the show’s mimed performances were instantly forgettable or just crass, but the ennui would be broken by Cameo’s thrusting red codpiece, Morrissey whirling his gladioli or Kurt’s faux baritone rendition of “Smells Like Teen Spirit”. During the 90s, youth’s short attention span began to be divvied up between new forms of media and the charts was usurped by downloads. Top Of The Pops became a stale anachronism that was shunted around the programming schedules into ever-deeper graveyard slots. When Jimmy Saville finally turned out the lights in July 2006, I felt that part of my childhood was being extinguished. There was no longer a barometer of popular music that united the nation. Ironically, the technology culpable of its demise is the very same that keeps it alive, for the Internet and Youtube flourish with uploaded ToTP clips from The Beatles to Britney. Long live Top of the Pops.

We finish our journey through 2006 with the Pauillacs. This was generally a strong set of wines befitting this most noble of enclaves and to nobody’s surprise it was the resurgent Château Mouton Rothschild 2006that is the pick of the First Growths. An eminent person in Bordeaux recently remarked that a bona fide great château ought to be hors classe,

surpass all others in at least one vintage every decade. Looking back at this year, you could argue that Philippe Dhalluin and his team did just that, though under blind conditions there is but a hair’s breadth in quality between Mouton and Château Lafite-Rothschild 2006 and Château Latour 2006. Charles Chevalier’s wine is evolving a feminine, Margaux-like bouquet with pure blackberry, cedar and cassis…typically refined with exquisite balance on the palate, which exudes a clinical efficiency. Frédéric Engerer at Latour conjured a comparatively backward Pauillac with more graphite and earth on the nose, counterbalanced by the sweetness of quince. The palate has a slightly meaty note at the present, leading to an austere, tertiary, almost brutish finish that suggests this has long-term potential.

Still, who needs First Growths when you have the over-performing likes of Château Pontet-Canet, Château Lynch-Bages, Château Batailley and Château Grand-Puy Lacoste. In particular, Xavier Borie pulled a blinder with his ’06 that thumps its chest and declares: “Moi, je suis un Pauillac”. Sulky at first, it bided its time in the glass but unfurled beautifully so that I had to keep going back and editing my tasting note. Don’t even think about this wine for another decade. Château Pichon-Lalande 2006 is a brilliant wine that for some, will surpass the 2005 (I personally put them neck-and-neck…but these things can change.) Closed on the nose, it reluctantly offered scents of graphite and crisp blackberries, whilst the full-bodied palate broadens out towards a sumptuous and yet beautifully structured finish and dare I say that despite differences in its blend, it reminds me of Mouton in terms of its “prudent opulence”.

Overall, Pauillac offers a strong set of wines in 2006 and compared to current release prices of 2009, they can be seen as a cheaper alternative with a bare minimum compromise in quality.

Page 1 sur 4Wine Journal: Top Of The Crops: Pauillac 2006


powerful black fruit, good depth with grippy, but more saturated tannins than others. It is just a bit soft and muffled on the finish at the point where it needs more drive. Tasted January 2010.

2006 Chateau Pontet-Canet 95Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. This remains a sensational Pontet Canet struts its stuff under severe blind conditions. It has a decadent, almost Tuscan bouquet that manages to be supremely well defined with fully embraces the oak, with a touch of gravel underlying the ripe blackberry, tobacco and plum. The palate is full-bodied, very well balanced with pure, fine tannins. I was expecting more of a hedonistic Pauillac, but this is restrained, feminine and beautifully poised towards the finish. Nice gentle but insistent grip. Enormous potential. Tasted January 2010.

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OtherWine-Journal Recommends: Château Mouton-Rothschild 2006Château Pontet-Canet 2006Château Pichon-Lalande 2006Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 2006

Tasting Notes

2006 Chateau d’Armailhac 88Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. I was expecting more from this d’Armailhac. It is taciturn on the nose, very austere compared to the pre-bottled sample with notes of blueberry, blackberry, cedar and pine. It has a relatively simple, sappy palate with rustic, slight red-berried fruit with a soft landing on the finish. Though this d’Armailhac is approachable, I do not think it is showing its best at the moment. Tasted January 2010.

2006 Chateau Croizet Bages 85Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. The perennial Pauillac whipping boy that does better in a blind setting. There is certainly some under-ripe fruit on the nose here although it has good definition and clarity, appealing in a simplistic way. The palate is medium-bodied, quite well balanced, not complex and very linear, but well defined and with a sense of natural balance on the leafy, tobacco-infused finish. Tasted January 2010.

2006 Chateau Batailley 92Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. The Batailley ’06 has a fresh, lifted, vibrant nose of blackberry, plum and graphite that is well defined and exudes Pauillac terroir. With further aeration there are scents of wild mint and pine developing in the glass. The palate is very well balanced, clean crisp fruit, judicious use of new oak, lovely poise on the blackberry, cedar and tobacco tinged finish that really shows its class against its peers. This is a great effort and sure to mature with style and grace. Tasted January 2010.

2006 Chateau Clerc-Milon 90Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. The Clerc-Milon ’06 has a rich, opulent nose (more like d’Armailhac!) with blackberry, cassis and black plum with hints of honey inflecting the fruit interlaced with prominent new oak, then a touch of tobacco developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied, saturated tannins lending this a fleshy texture, gentle but persistent grip, hints of graphite and cedar with a controlled opulence towards the modern-style finish. This is a well-crafted Clerc-Milon. Tasted January 2010.

2006 Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse 84Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. This is rather muffled on the nose, lacking the definition of the Batailley ‘06 with notes of mulberry, graphite and sloe and oak not in synch. The palate is medium-bodied, chewy tannins, lacking a sense of Pauillac terroir with a lot of oak smothering what feels like some decent fruit. Quel dommage. Tertiary finish, I would give this the benefit of the doubt and deign it with another 3-4 years in bottle to see what happens. No promises though. Tasted January 2010.

2006 Chateau Duhart Milon 89Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. The Duhart ’06 has a very fine, well-defined, typically masculine nose with blackberry, espresso, boysenberry and a touch of cold tea. The palate is medium-bodied but expanding in the mouth, ripe black toasty fruit woven around firm tannins, foursquare with a slight bitterness on the tarry finish. This needs 8-10 years to mellow, but a little doughty at the moment. Tasted January 2010.

2006 Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste 94Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. One of those wines that sulks at being poured blind in this beauty pageant and yet with patience it begins to accept the situation. The bouquet is curmudgeonly at first, dense and introverted with traditional blackberry, wild hedgerow and pencil box aromas. Very fine definition and lift. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, grippy tannins, superb concentration with a touch of black pepper sprinkled over the dense black fruits that take aeons to unfurl. This is a brilliant wine from Xavier Borie but like all great GPL’s: think 20-years not five. Tasted January 2010.

2006 Haut Bages Averous 87Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. A lifted cedar and pencil shaving nose with good definition and quite prominent new oak, although not enough to disguise some green fruit under the cassis fruit. The palate is chewy, full-bodied with saturated tannins, clean fruit but lacking a little poise. Rounded and generous on the finish, this Haut Bages Averous is charming. but not sufficiently complex to really inspire. Tasted January 2010.

2006 Chateau Haut Bages Libéral 88Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. This has a more refined, floral bouquet although it does lack some complexity: violets, dark cherries and crushed stones. Modern in style with ripe blackberry and raspberry fruit, noticeable vanillary new oak, sleek and suave towards the grippy, structured finish that needs more definition and edginess. Too eager to please? I think this will mellow with bottle age. Tasted January 2010.

2006 Chateau Haut-Batailley 90Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. A mercurial sample that almost felt a little dusty on the nose at first, but it brightens up and gains freshness with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied and foursquare, moderate acidity with notes of mulberry, blackberry and a touch of black pepper, though quite linear on the finish. Very good weight and the oak is very well integrated, but it should not be approached for several years. Tasted January 2010.

2006 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 96Tasted blind at Southwold ’06 Bordeaux tasting. The Lafite-Rothschild ’06 is blessed with a












Top Of The Crops: Pauillac 2006

July 30th 2006 – “Top Of The Pops” is broadcast for the last time since it was first aired on New Years Day, 1964.Every Thursday night I would sit down to watch Top Of The Pops and digest the weekly pop chart. At that time, Bruno Brookes or Simon Bates run down of the top 40 singles was infinitely more important than say, unemployment figures or inflation. We wanted to know if Phil Collins was in the top ten or whether Duran Duran were still number one. Most of the show’s mimed performances were instantly forgettable or just crass, but the ennui would be broken by Cameo’s thrusting red codpiece, Morrissey whirling his gladioli or Kurt’s faux baritone rendition of “Smells Like Teen Spirit”. During the 90s, youth’s short attention span began to be divvied up between new forms of media and the charts was usurped by downloads. Top Of The Pops became a stale anachronism that was shunted around the programming schedules into ever-deeper graveyard slots. When Jimmy Saville finally turned out the lights in July 2006, I felt that part of my childhood was being extinguished. There was no longer a barometer of popular music that united the nation. Ironically, the technology culpable of its demise is the very same that keeps it alive, for the Internet and Youtube flourish with uploaded ToTP clips from The Beatles to Britney. Long live Top of the Pops.

We finish our journey through 2006 with the Pauillacs. This was generally a strong set of wines befitting this most noble of enclaves and to nobody’s surprise it was the resurgent Château Mouton Rothschild 2006that is the pick of the First Growths. An eminent person in Bordeaux recently remarked that a bona fide great château ought to be hors classe,

surpass all others in at least one vintage every decade. Looking back at this year, you could argue that Philippe Dhalluin and his team did just that, though under blind conditions there is but a hair’s breadth in quality between Mouton and Château Lafite-Rothschild 2006 and Château Latour 2006. Charles Chevalier’s wine is evolving a feminine, Margaux-like bouquet with pure blackberry, cedar and cassis…typically refined with exquisite balance on the palate, which exudes a clinical efficiency. Frédéric Engerer at Latour conjured a comparatively backward Pauillac with more graphite and earth on the nose, counterbalanced by the sweetness of quince. The palate has a slightly meaty note at the present, leading to an austere, tertiary, almost brutish finish that suggests this has long-term potential.

Still, who needs First Growths when you have the over-performing likes of Château Pontet-Canet, Château Lynch-Bages, Château Batailley and Château Grand-Puy Lacoste. In particular, Xavier Borie pulled a blinder with his ’06 that thumps its chest and declares: “Moi, je suis un Pauillac”. Sulky at first, it bided its time in the glass but unfurled beautifully so that I had to keep going back and editing my tasting note. Don’t even think about this wine for another decade. Château Pichon-Lalande 2006 is a brilliant wine that for some, will surpass the 2005 (I personally put them neck-and-neck…but these things can change.) Closed on the nose, it reluctantly offered scents of graphite and crisp blackberries, whilst the full-bodied palate broadens out towards a sumptuous and yet beautifully structured finish and dare I say that despite differences in its blend, it reminds me of Mouton in terms of its “prudent opulence”.

Overall, Pauillac offers a strong set of wines in 2006 and compared to current release prices of 2009, they can be seen as a cheaper alternative with a bare minimum compromise in quality.



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Le Point Spécial Cadeaux - 25 Novembre 2010

Le Point Spécial Cadeaux - 25 Novembre 2010

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23 Mar 2010 by Jancis Robinson

Last week I had the great pleasure of 'looking at' nearly 50 of the more significant red bordeaux from the vintage celebrating its tenth birthday. This is traditionally the time at which classical red bordeaux starts to come round and starts to provide good drinking. I am delighted that fine wine traders Bordeaux Index have decided to take over the mantle of my late mentor Edmund Penning-Rowsell in organising an annual retrospective tasting of 10-year-old top bordeaux. (See here for an account of their 1999 tasting last year.)

I thought this was one of the most pleasurable horizontals I can remember, with the wines generally delightfully balanced. See my overview highlighting some of the best buys and over-performers, but in the meantime, do please take a look at the notes, scores (pretty close together) and at my very varied suggested drinking dates. Most, but by no means all, of these wines are just starting to be broachable.

As you will see, a number of wines gain very respectable scores without having ridiculously high price tags, despite the reputation and maturity of this fine vintage. Note that this was a particularly good year for Pomerol (and Graves) in general, and Église-Clinet in particular.

Wines are listed in the order they were tasted. Prices given are approximate estimates for a dozen bottles in bond.

ST-ÉMILION

Ch Belair 2000 St-Émilion 16 Drink 2008-2018 Light to mid ruby with definite signs of ageing on the rim. Light nose with lots of evolution. Warm and round on the nose and with marked acidity without much intensity. Then on the palate some pronounced ripeness, almost a salty 'bloody' ripeness character. Furry finish. The fruit is not the freshest and a little tannin lingers. This is definitely ancient rather than modern idiom. £280 ib approx

Ch Canon La Gaffelière 2000 St-Émilion 17 Drink 2008-2020 Some brightness in the ruby. Quite a youthful, 'pointed', sharp nose without much development yet. Rich and sweet and with more than a hint of dark chocolate, this leaps up and down for attention. The acid and tannin are still a little jagged, in modern idiom. Very savoury finish. Firm and still on the way up. £650 ib approx

Ch Angélus 2000 St-Émilion 18 Drink 2009-2025 Exceptionally deep crimson. Rather attractively ethereal topnotes on a solid core of ripeness. Very attractive package - vivacious modern wine that offers great intensity and richness without being aggressively sweet or hot. It has still got a long way to go but it can certainly deliver pleasure already. Neat and very bright and bushy- tailed. £2,350 ib approx

Ch Tertre Roteboeuf 2000 St-Émilion 18 Drink 2010-2025 Mid ruby with some shading. Much more complex and exotic on the nose than its peers. Very sweet palate entry and more than a hint of something halfway between a Chambolle and a Barolo. Strange! But a welcome challenge. Lots of jazzy ripeness even if the tannins and acidity are yet to be fully resolved. I'd guess this still has quite a bit to give. Though without being modern, this certainly isn't classic. £2,400 ib approx

POMEROL

Ch Petit Village 2000 Pomerol 16.5 Drink 2008-2018 Looks quite an evolved mid brick colour. Odd 'warmed liquorice' notes on the nose - apparently fully resolved but by no means unpleasant - rather comforting. Sweet start, pretty light-bodied. Slightly rusty tannins on the finish - leaves one with a furry impression. Not the purest or freshest of fruit. Competent without being thrilling. £500 ib approx

Ch Gazin 2000 Pomerol 17 Drink 2007-2015 Mid ruby with some evolution. Neat fresh nose with everything in balance. Sweet and floral and gentle - fully evolved and with the tannins almost imperceptible. This would be quite a good time to drink this gamey wine. £550 ib approx

Ch La Conseillante 2000 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2012-2025 Bright and dark crimson. Very intense and clarety, rather than being obviously right bank. Firm - management-school style of Pomerol! Very atractive with lots of sheen though there's quite a bit of acidity on the finish. Nicely polished tannins but I think I'd wait for a little more fruit subtlety to develop. £1,850 ib approx

Ch Hosanna 2000 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2009-2022 Dark ruby with a developed rim. Very traditional, satisying, old-fashioned mature Pomerol nose. Pure dusty, sweet fruit - rather at odds with the determinedly modern Hosanna label in fact! Luscious stuff that should give lots of pleasure. £1,200 ib approx

Ch La Fleur-Pétrus 2000 Pomerol 16.5 Drink 2008-2018 Light, bright ruby. Very light nose that seems very developed. Rather a pale shadow of a right bank wine, this bottle. Perfectly amicable but without much of a message. Luncheon claret with rusty nails on the end. £1,800 ib approx

Vieux Château Certan 2000 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2008-2020 Very deep blackish ruby. Warm, rewarding nose. Surprisingly evolved, as though there was not much more to give. Ripe fruit and fully melded tannins. Was this because they didn't have sufficient vat space before expanding the cellar? Nice wine but not a super star in this particular vintage. £985 ib approx

Ch Clinet 2000 Pomerol 17 Drink 2012-2024 Quite dark ruby. Lots of smudge on the rim. Dense, iron-filings nose. Very sweet and modern - a bit like an Argentine Malbec with the best polish it has ever had. Plush. Still a bit of chewy tannin on the end. Savoury. Well-balanced mouthful - not over the top. £850 ib approx

Ch L'Église-Clinet 2000 Pomerol 18.5 Drink 2009-2025 Exceptionally deep crimson. Intense and slightly tarry nose with hints of dark chocolate - really rather luscious. Great balance. So polished and beautifully balanced yet with quite a lot buried in there - more than with most of its peers. Really very impressive. £2,200 ib approx


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Page 1 sur 4Bordeaux 2000 - how are they now? | Fine Wine Writing & Wine Reviews from Janc...


PAUILLAC

Ch Pontet-Canet 2000 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2008-2025 Still dark crimson. Intense with almost barnyard smells. Racy and rich with a savoury overlay. Seems a little light because it was served immediately after the Las Cases but this is serious wine. £650 ib approx

Ch Lynch Bages 2000 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2010-2024 Very dark ruby with some evolution. Toasty and appetising. Very appealing subtlety and complexity on the nose though on the palate it is clearly not as ripe as some. Maybe higher yields? An attractive drink but far from intense. £1,450 ib approx

Ch Grand-Puy Lacoste 2000 Pauillac 17.5+ Drink 2014-2030 Mid ruby. Firm and, for the first time in this tasting I find myself writing the word 'mineral'. Sweet and pleasing and at first I wondered whether it was almost at its apogee, but it still has slightly aggressive acid and tannin on the palate. It's far from subtle but it does deliver. Quite marked acidity. Not the most luscious 2000 but very solid. Probably needs a bit more time. £580 ib approx

Ch Latour, Les Forts de Latour 2000 Pauillac 18 Drink 2010-2030 Dark and shaded ruby. Much more complex nose than any wine so far. But quite developed..? I love the minerality and lusciousness-yet-dryness on the finish. Very solid performance and a lovely wine for an extended period, I would say. Very grown up indeed. £1,250 ib approx

Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2000 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2010-2022 Bluer than the Pichon-Longueville by quite a margin. A hint of herbaceousness. Pretty. Not excessively ripe. Neat and vibrant but it may disappoint those looking for mass and ripeness? Certainly very 'fresh'. Maybe just a bit too much so for expectations of this vintage and this appellation. £1,500 ib approx

Ch Pichon-Longueville (Baron) 2000 Pauillac 18 Drink 2010-2030 Dark blackish ruby, more orange than the Pichon Lalande colour. Warm, integrated nose. Dense and beautifully balanced. Pure Pauillac without recourse to pastiche. Much riper than Pichon Lalande but not overripe. Already broachable but with potential too. Good stuff! £1,100 ib approx

ST-ESTÈPHE

Ch Montrose 2000 St-Estèphe 18 Drink 2015-2035 Mid crimson. Meaty and toasty on the nose but a mite restrained on the palate. Lots of iron filings. Needs lots of time. This sure is archetypal St-Estèphe! Very chewy still. £1,300 ib approx

Ch Cos d'Estournel 2000 St-Estèphe 17.5+ Drink 2015-2032 Dark crimson. Surprisingly low-key nose. Actually, it is almost Lafite like in its low-key raciness. Not at all the dense mode of Cos. Dry finish but not too concentrated. Very appetising and quite racy and ethereal. Interesting. Obviously here for the long term even if not with enormous ripeness and mass. £800 ib approx

FIRST GROWTHS & EQUIVALENT

Ch Cheval Blanc 2000 St-Émilion 18.5 Drink 2010-2040 Mid crimson. Toasty nose that is very definitely Cheval. Well balanced and quite advanced and very subtle and racy. Very long. Bit of a striptease in terms of the slowness with which it reveals itself - and most of the pleasure is on the finish. Wonderful complexity on the finish. SO long... Bravo! £7,600 ib approx

Ch Ausone 2000 St-Émilion 18 Drink 2014-2028 Much more evolved-looking than the Cheval 2000. Less opulent nose than the Cheval served alongside. Lightly pruney and dusty, dried fruit. Much more demanding and 'modern' than the Cheval. Thick and demanding with a very dry finish. Not entirely comfortable as a tasting experience though certainly impressive. Probably just needs a bit more time but I would not counsel opening a botte of Ausone 2000 yet... £17,000 ib approx

Ch La Mission Haut-Brion 2000 Pessac-Léognan 18.5+ Drink 2015-2035 Rather bluer than the Haut-Brion. Minerals and dryness and focus on the nose. Sleek and polished and almost rudely concentrated. Very dry finish. Sinewy. Long. Very serious wine. £5,500 ib approx

Ch Haut-Brion 2000 Pessac-Léognan 18+ Drink 2012-2030 More orange than the La Mission 2000. Lighter, more fragrant than the La Mission 2000. Apparently much readier. More readable but utterly true to its origins. Very racy and racehorse like. Exceedingly long and subtle. Some pepper. £5,350 ib approx

Ch Margaux 2000 Margaux 18+ Drink 2016-2030 Dark ruby with some development and a remarkably similar colour to Lafite 2000. A little raw and unresolved on the nose. A bit scrawnier than some 2000s. Not luscious certainly. Still quite teenage. Long with quite a bit of interest on the finish but it probably needs a bit of time to really come into focus. For the moment it's a bit awkward with very marked tannins. £8,500 ib approx

Ch Lafite 2000 Pauillac 18.5 Drink 2015-2035 Dark ruby - same colour as Ch Margaux 2000. Very light - almost soapy - on the nose. Lots of chew and potential. Polished sinewy tanins but not nearly ready - however many bottles have already been drunk in China! Appetising but wait. Green notes at the moment. This has length and potential. £17,000 ib approx

Ch Mouton Rothschild 2000 Pauillac 17.5 Drink 2013-2025 Dark, glowing ruby. Notably toasty nose - odd for a first growth! Easy to like for its sweetness and toastiness. This does not seem to have first growth subtlety - though it does have that snazzy heavy bottle with the gold sheep engraved on it... £7,700 ib approx

Ch Latour 2000 Pauillac 18.5+ Drink 2015-2040 Dark crimson. Light, bracing nose. Not the most intense Latour vintage but it is at least more Latour than 2000. Very solid and mineral with some lift and I should think no disappointment in the long run, though I would strongly recommend the more expressive Forts in the short term. The grand vin is obdurately dry and introvert at the moment. £8,350 ib approx

Ch Le Pin 2000 Pomerol 17.5 Drink 2010-2022 Dark smudgy ruby. Very rich with graphite notes - and almosty exaggerated. Sweet and polished and almost animal - certainly slightly floral - just a little bit 'fly' as opposed to solid and substantial. Very rich and jewelly and long and flattering though certainly not classical! There is something just a little sweet and simple here. Though there is no shortage of impact... £30,000 ib approx

Ch Pétrus 2000 Pomerol 19 Drink 2010-2030 Dark ruby with a black tinge. Rich and with minerals and a strong, pungent note that reminds me of fireworks. Very rich and explosive. Much more impact than the Le Pin. Very long and gorgeous. The most exciting wine here!! Very rich and complete. £33,500 ib approx

Page 3 sur 4Bordeaux 2000 - how are they now? | Fine Wine Writing & Wine Reviews from Janc...


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attacking but perhaps a little ostentatious? Spiky, spicy black fruits, touches of marjoram and cardamom. Dry and tobacco dominated towards the finish, moderate length. It lacks some focus for the first ten minutes but coalesces and tidies itself up. Drink 2012-2030. Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £900/case.

2000 Chateau Léoville Poyferré 95Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. A sensuous, ripe, harmonious bouquet soars seductively from the glass; red-berried fruit, leather, scorched earth, orange peel and a touch of marmalade. Very good definition. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, lovely focus and purity, seamless texture, cedar and smoke laced black fruits with a touch of graphite towards the finish. This 2000 just does not put a foot wrong. Bravo Didier! Drink 2013-2035. Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £800/case.

2000 Chateau Léoville Las-Cases 96Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This is just a bit reductive at first, opening up with aeration, mulberry, leather, black truffle and a whiff of smoke. Good definition again. The palate is full-bodied and very concentrated, chewy tannins, touches of sandalwood and cedar, dense and perhaps a little sullen towards the finish. This will need some time to open up, rather curmudgeonly at the moment but hey, that’s Las-Cases and the sense of completeness here will see it blossom in 15-20 years. Drink 2020-2050. Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £2,600/case.

2000 Chateau Pontet-Canet 91Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This has an alluring, open-knit nose, very well defined with ebullient redcurrant and wild strawberry on the nose, sandalwood, leather, cigar box and a touch of pine. The palate is medium-bodied with firm but fine tannin, very good weight, quite sinewy and taut with tart red berried fruit towards the long finish. Lively and animated – real energy in this wine, smooth and lactic on the finish. Drink now-2025. Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £650/case.

2000 Chateau Lynch-Bages 94Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This is more taciturn on the nose than Pontet-Canet ‘00, but is well defined with some lovely savoury, chestnut and black truffle aromas developing in the glass. Touches of damp moss/lichen. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, gentle grip, foursquare but good weight, blackberry, graphite, leather and cedar, chewy towards the dry, structured finish. Very fine, perhaps a little broody and introverted at the moment. But great potential. Drink 2016-2040. Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £1,450/case.

2000 Chateau Grand-Puy Lacoste 94Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This has a very complex nose but it is tightly coiled at the moment: brambly black fruits, earthy, sous-bois, a touch of truffle and smoke. Very fine definition but masculine, a wine that wears a cravat and pince-nez. The palate is medium-bodied, quite chewy on the entry and not as delineated as the nose implies. Sharp cranberry, raspberry and soy towards the finish, rather pointed with that acidity giving the back-palate a short sharp shock! Very tightly coiled, this needs much more time than I initially expected. Drink 2020-2040. Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £580/case.

2000 Chateau Les Fort de Latour 93Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This Les Forts de Latour is quite hard to fathom out and at first, it was difficult to pin down. But returning after a couple of hours, the wine is finally starting to coalesce, with ripe strawberry, blackcurrant and mint on the nose with just a hint of graphite. The palate, hard at first, softens and finds its rhythm, sensuous and beautifully balanced on the pure finish. Approach with caution...but do approach. Drink 2014-2025+ Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £1,250/case.

2000 Chateau Pichon-Lalande 87Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. As usual, this Pichon-Lalande is a capricious, vexing Pauillac. Initially I gave it the benefit of doubt, finding that obvious herbaceousquality a quirk that lent it character. However, the longer I leave this and returning to taste it 2-3 times over the course of two hours, that quirk becomes more and more like a weakness, vegetal rather than leafy, a sore that refuses to heal and festers with time. The palate is similarly not easy to pin down. It is attractive in that leafy, autumnal way, but again the longer I leave it in the glass, the more that under-ripeness begins to dominate the entire wine. This is a troublesome Pichon-Lalande. Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £1,500/case.

2000 Chateau Pichon-Baron 96Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. This is slightly reticent on the nose: blackberry, smoke, cedar, a touch of wild mushroom and sandalwood. Good definition and gaining vigour all the time with aeration. The palate is full-bodied with ripe, supple tannins, a dash of black pepper sprinkled over the ripe black, tarry fruit, foursquare and regal towards the finely tuned finish. Very good length. Elegant yet powerful in Pichon Baron’s trademark style. Superb. Drink 2015-2030+ Tasted March 2010. In bond price: £1,100/case.

2000 Chateau Montrose 93+Tasted blind at Bordeaux Index’s 2000 tasting in London. There is a sense of “controlled opulence” on the nose: blackberry, fig, smoke and touches of boot polish. Very good definition and focus, developing scents of scorched earth/wet clay with time. The palate is medium-bodied, firm tannins, perhaps just a little dry vis-à-vis the level of fruit, muscular, great depth and powerful, but missing a touch of joie-de-vivre towards the finish (which means it is a young St. Estephe! Give this time and



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2000 Pontet-Canet Pontet-Canet A Bordeaux Blend Dry Red Table wine fromPauillac, Bordeaux, France

Source Reviewer Rating MaturityCurrent

(Release) Cost

Wine Advocate # 189 Jun 2010 Robert Parker 94+ Drink: 2015 -

2035 $88-$175

Upgraded in score over my original rating, which was several points lower, Alfred Tesseron has done a remarkable job since 1994 with Pontet-Canet, which has been hitting first-growth levels since 2003. But the 2000 also shows exceptionally well. In need of another decade of cellaring, this dense purple wine has a classic nose of incense, charcoal, creme de cassis, and subtle new oak. Full-bodied, powerful, still very tannic, and shockingly backward, this is a big, rich wine that has put on weight and seems to need more time than I originally predicted. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035+.

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Wine Advocate # 146 Apr 2003 Robert Parker 92 Drink: 2011 -

2030$88-$175

(47)

Like its neighbor, Mouton Rothschild, this wine seems to have closed down considerably after bottling. The impressively saturated opaque purple color offers up some promising aromas of black currants, vanilla, truffle, smoke, and mineral. In the mouth, it is full-bodied, powerful, layered, and enticingly textured, but oh, so backward and firm. The finish is long, but this broodingly backward, large-scaled Pontet-Canet will require considerable patience. Does it rival the brilliant 1995 or 1996? I am not sure. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2030.

Wine Advocate # 139 Feb 2002 Robert Parker (92-94) Drink: 2010 -

2030$88-$175

(47)

A stunning offering is the 2000. An opaque purple color is accompanied by an impressive aromatic display of pure creme de cassis, high quality oak, sweet earth, and smoke. It is a steely, extremely long classic with noticeable tannin as well as fine concentration and power, and a 45-second finish. This broodingly backward, hulking Pontet-Canet will require patience. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030+.

Wine Advocate # 134 Apr 2001 Robert Parker (92-95) Drink: 2007 -

2030 $88-$175

A spectacular effort from Pontet Canet. The opaque ruby/purple-colored 2000 offers a gorgeously pure, intense bouquet of blackberry liqueur, cassis, smoke, and Asian spices. The Pontet Canet displays a firm, classic feel in the mouth, high tannin, medium to full body, exceptional concentration as well as purity, and a long finish. Bravo! Anticipated maturity: 2007-2030.

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2009's 100 Most Viewed Tasting Notes

Vintage Producer Label Name # of Views2007 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape 15,008 2008 Lafite-Rothschild 14,828 2008 Pontet-Canet 14,282 2007 Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes 8,960 2007 Pierre Usseglio Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul 8,060 2006 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri DOC Rosso Superiore Ornellaia 7,676 2007 Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape 7,605 2004 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 7,406 2008 Latour 7,268 2007 Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape 7,058 2006 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Masseto 6,890 2008 Petrus 6,579 2007 Saxum James Berry Vineyard Proprietary Red 6,566 2006 Pontet-Canet 6,542 2007 Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin 6,519 2008 Ducru Beaucaillou 6,429 2006 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 6,338 2008 Montrose 6,306 2005 Pontet-Canet 6,192 2007 Domaine de Ferrand Chateauneuf du Pape 6,189 2008 Gazin 6,168 2007 Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas Hominis Fides 6,102 2008 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 6,020 1982 Mouton-Rothschild 5,937 2007 Mas de Boislauzon Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee du Quet 5,832 2003 Montrose 5,787 2007 Vignobles Brunier Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape 5,742 2008 Duhart-Milon-Rothschild 5,645 2005 Shafer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select 5,555 2006 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Vino da Tavola 5,547 2008 Haut Bailly 5,502 2005 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 5,445 2007 Clos Saint-Jean Chateauneuf du Pape Deus Ex Machina 5,414 2008 Mouton-Rothschild 5,412 2007 Clos du Mont Olivet Chateauneuf du Pape la Cuvee du Papet 5,318 2008 Chateau Margaux 5,312 2008 Troplong-Mondot 5,291 2007 Domaine de Saint-Prefert Chateauneuf du Pape Collecion Charles Gira 5,261 2008 Trotanoy 5,193 2008 Cos d'Estournel 5,138 2008 Clinet 5,114 2005 Opus One Proprietary Red Wine 4,992 2007 Domaine Gerard Charvin Chateauneuf du Pape 4,989 1982 Lafite-Rothschild 4,979 2005 Lascombes 4,976 2006 Mouton-Rothschild 4,901 2008 Haut Brion 4,811 2004 Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 4,791 2006 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape 4,766 2008 Leoville-Las Cases 4,760 1986 Mouton-Rothschild 4,722 1982 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 4,691 2008 Le Gay 4,625 2002 Louis Roederer Cristal 4,599 2008 Leoville-Barton 4,584 2008 Ausone 4,499 2007 Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas Prestige des Hautes Garrigues 4,478

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Famed Winemaker Alfred Tesseron to be Honored at Cotes Du Coeur Gala April 10Posted on March 29th, 2010Archived in Cotes du Coeur, Drink This, This Way In (All Posts)Leave a comment

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By Rebecca Marmaduke

Winemaker Alfred Tesseron of Ch. Pontet-CanetWe Texans pride ourselves on many things, including our hospitality, friendliness and our delicious beef. Good thing these elements were not lost on 2010 Tête de Cuvee Honoree Alfred Tesseron during his previous visits to Dallas because the French winemaker is looking forward to enjoying them again when he comes to town next week for Côtes du Coeur.And since he likes steak, he’s in luck— Côtes du Coeur is being catered by the Who’s Who of steaks.The Côtes du Coeur dinner line-up includes dishes prepared by the chefs of Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, Chamberlain’s Steak and Chop House, Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse, and many other stellar restaurants that know how to do justice to a perfect cut of prime beef. There could be no better accompaniment to a fork-tender, juicy steak than a glass of Tesseron’s Château Pontet-Canet, with its ripe tannins and aromas of blackberry, black licorice, mineral and fresh flowers. No wonder Wine Spectator named the 2005 Bordeaux-style Château Pontet-Canet one of the Top 10 Wines of 2008 and rated it 96 points.The Cotes du Coeur Tête de Cuvee Award honors the “Best of the Best” in the wine profession. The American Heart Association presents the award annually to an individual or family in recognition of outstanding achievements in winemaking and promoting healthier lifestyles. Tesseron will be the guest of honor at the private Grand Tasting held in Dallas on April 9, the evening before the public Gala.Since assuming leadership of the Pauillac winery in 1997, Tesseron has continued to build the reputation of Pontet-Canet wines, and in January 2005, he was knighted by the French Minister of Agriculture, receiving the “Ordre National du Mérite Agricole.” Some of his innovations at Château Pontet-Canet include the replacement of grape-picking baskets with small crates, so the grapes go directly from the vine to sorting tables with less handling and damage to the fruit.

The vineyard's working girls. The Pontet-Canet estate follows biodynamic agriculture practices, going so far as to use of horses instead of tractors to work the vineyards. (Horses were a common sight at Pontet-Canet until the 1959 vintage; nearly 50 years later, they have returned.) Tesseron notes that, in addition to the horses’ low carbon footprint (hoofprint?), they compact the soils less, and cause less damage to the vines than tractors.Cotes du Coeur benefits the American Heart Association, and the Gala event will be held at the Hilton Anatole on April 10. For more Cotes du Coeur information, visit www.dallaswineauction.com.Rebecca Marmaduke is Cotes du Coeur Editor for EscapeHatchDallas.com

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Le groupe Duclot et Lafayette Gourmet créent à Paris la Bordeauxthèque, plus grande cave de bordeaux au monde

Il fallait un décor à la mesure de l'événement. Il y a donc une ville de 70 000 m² bâtie au coeur de Paris. Les Galeries Lafayette du boulevard Haussmann, 104 ans, reçoivent chaque année l'équivalent d'une moitié de la population française. Le plus gros magasin de détaxe du monde a cette particularité d'être tout juste un peu moins couru que la tour Eiffel. Sous la coupole classée, les lumières aimantent les nuées touristiques. On parle mandarin et cantonais pour accueillir poliment les Chinois, en tête de la clientèle étrangère, avant les Américains et les Japonais. Personne ne s'y refuse rien. L'autre jour, un Hindou est reparti de la bijouterie avec une parure à 450 000 euros. La mégapole des marques respire l'élégance, le produit ciblé, le voyage lointain. Vingt-sept points de restauration jalonnent le parcours. Au milieu s'étale le Lafayette Gourmet, un village de 400 m² entièrement consacré aux plaisirs de la table. La France fait portes ouvertes. La

Bordeauxthèque est là, dans la proximité de la gourmandise. À l'entrée, Philippe Thomas, directeur avisé de l'alimentation et de la restauration, semble ravi du pacte qu'il vient de sceller avec Jean-François Moueix et son fils Jean, les négociants bordelais du groupe Duclot. Le bébé est unique au monde.

Bordeaux, l'image porteuse Philippe Thomas explique son choix. « Nous avons fait le pari que la qualité de l'offre et la diversité des vins de Bordeaux méritaient un développement spécifique. Au-delà du plus grand vignoble du monde qui magnifie les terroirs, nous avons voulu mettre en valeur la dimension accessible et oecuménique de Bordeaux. La région diffuse un art de vivre. C'est une image très porteuse, même si les cartes de vin à Paris, de manière un peu injustifiée, ne le mentionnent pas. La Bordeauxthèque est un site marchand, simple à utiliser, qui porte en même temps le culte de ces vins-là. Il faut que le néophyte comprenne et que l'amateur s'y retrouve. » Toi qui entres ici, abandonne tout espoir de trouver un bourgogne. Bordeaux partout, voilà la vérité. Le couloir s'ouvre vers la corne d'abondance estampillée Moueix, qui ne se fournit qu'à la propriété. Aucun de ces vins n'a jamais quitté Bordeaux. À gauche, à l'entrée, nous voici avec ceux qui luttent hors des magazines chics, les vins qui démarrent à 3,90 Đ pour les rouges et 5 Đ pour les blancs, sans jamais dépasser les 25 Đ, tel ce Baron de Brane-Cantenac. Le prix les classe. Un plombier de Garges-lès-Gonesse ou un général du Kazakhstan peuvent s'emparer d'un flacon en fonction du billet disponible. Plus loin, les magnums à moins de 50 euros et les doubles magnums à moins de 100 euros. En face, les « bons rapports qualité-prix ». À droite aussi l'espace dévolu aux trois ou quatre viticulteurs mis en lumière chaque mois. Visiblement, des propriétés confirmées et d'autres qui méritent de le devenir. Avec un choix saisonnier de rosés. Ici, le vin est facile d'accès, palpable tout de suite. C'est le vin sans peine pour tous. Au bout du couloir, un deuxième espace s'enroule autour de la rotonde. À gauche, la zone « Rive gauche-rive droite » des crus bourgeois, dont certains sont mis en avant - en l'occurrence Chasse-Spleen - et les seconds vins disposés en deux parties : le second de grand cru et le second de premier grand cru. Devant nous, dix millésimes des Forts de Latour, le second de Latour. Se profilent sur la gauche les contenants hors normes. Impériales, jéroboams, nabuchodonosors. Un 15 litres de Lynch-Bages 2000 - quelle émotion ! -précède les magnums de grands crus classés par appellation. Puis les millésimes antérieurs à 1975, soudés aux tiroirs. Il n'est pas possible de les décrocher sans voir surgir la gendarmerie. Touchons néanmoins furtivement un Cos d'Estournel 1985. Suivent sauternes, blancs secs et demi-bouteilles pour petites ambitions.

Le sanctuaire La rotonde extérieure est organisée dans une logique géographique. Le voyage commence à Saint-Estèphe et se poursuit par Pauillac (huit millésimes de Pontet-Canet) les trois Léoville, Saint-Julien, Margaux. On change de rive en tournant, Pomerol, Saint-Émilion, Pessac-Léognan avant de revenir à Saint-Estèphe. La balade initiatique, toujours, mène à l'intérieur de la rotonde où veille la garde royale sous une lumière intimiste. L'espace des grands est une chapelle ceinte des portraits de philosophes grecs et romains de Jim Dine, figure américaine du pop art. Margaux, Lafitte, Latour, Mouton, Haut-Brion, Mission Haut-Brion, Cheval-Blanc et Petrus sont là en majesté. Petite accélération du coeur avec un Margaux 1961, un Haut-Brion 1989, un Mouton 1945 à 20 000 euros. Ils contemplent Yquem au centre, célébré comme la Vierge noire de Jasna Góra dans le sanctuaire de Czestochowa. Le sauternes, représenté par 24 millésimes sous Plexiglas, de 1899 à 2006, doit autant cette auréole christique à son génie qu'à ses couleurs d'automne en feu. Ici, dans les dégradés du peintre, hors du temps, on pourrait considérer qu'il s'agit d'un espace culturel, quelque chose qui tiendrait du musée de l'Ermitage à Saint-Pétersbourg ou du Moma, le musée d'Art moderne de New York. Mais qu'une équipe permanente de sommeliers raconte.

La Bordeauxthèque, cave exclusive, est en réalité un moment somptueux à vivre. Pour la première fois, une vitrine permet d'embrasser, dans l'unité de lieu, l'empire des appellations bordelaises, des tableaux méconnus aux chefs-d'oeuvre de l'élite. C'est-à-dire cette capacité unique à affirmer la civilisation du vin jusqu'aux tréfonds de la planète.

Christian Seguin - Sud Ouest

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04 Janv. 2010 au 01 Juill. 2010 - Franche Comté : Exposition Jura Terre d' AOC -Arlay

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Le groupe Duclot et Lafayette Gourmet créent à Paris la Bordeauxthèque, plus grande cave de bordeaux au monde

Il fallait un décor à la mesure de l'événement. Il y a donc une ville de 70 000 m² bâtie au coeur de Paris. Les Galeries Lafayette du boulevard Haussmann, 104 ans, reçoivent chaque année l'équivalent d'une moitié de la population française. Le plus gros magasin de détaxe du monde a cette particularité d'être tout juste un peu moins couru que la tour Eiffel. Sous la coupole classée, les lumières aimantent les nuées touristiques. On parle mandarin et cantonais pour accueillir poliment les Chinois, en tête de la clientèle étrangère, avant les Américains et les Japonais. Personne ne s'y refuse rien. L'autre jour, un Hindou est reparti de la bijouterie avec une parure à 450 000 euros. La mégapole des marques respire l'élégance, le produit ciblé, le voyage lointain. Vingt-sept points de restauration jalonnent le parcours. Au milieu s'étale le Lafayette Gourmet, un village de 400 m² entièrement consacré aux plaisirs de la table. La France fait portes ouvertes. La

Bordeauxthèque est là, dans la proximité de la gourmandise. À l'entrée, Philippe Thomas, directeur avisé de l'alimentation et de la restauration, semble ravi du pacte qu'il vient de sceller avec Jean-François Moueix et son fils Jean, les négociants bordelais du groupe Duclot. Le bébé est unique au monde.

Bordeaux, l'image porteuse Philippe Thomas explique son choix. « Nous avons fait le pari que la qualité de l'offre et la diversité des vins de Bordeaux méritaient un développement spécifique. Au-delà du plus grand vignoble du monde qui magnifie les terroirs, nous avons voulu mettre en valeur la dimension accessible et oecuménique de Bordeaux. La région diffuse un art de vivre. C'est une image très porteuse, même si les cartes de vin à Paris, de manière un peu injustifiée, ne le mentionnent pas. La Bordeauxthèque est un site marchand, simple à utiliser, qui porte en même temps le culte de ces vins-là. Il faut que le néophyte comprenne et que l'amateur s'y retrouve. » Toi qui entres ici, abandonne tout espoir de trouver un bourgogne. Bordeaux partout, voilà la vérité. Le couloir s'ouvre vers la corne d'abondance estampillée Moueix, qui ne se fournit qu'à la propriété. Aucun de ces vins n'a jamais quitté Bordeaux. À gauche, à l'entrée, nous voici avec ceux qui luttent hors des magazines chics, les vins qui démarrent à 3,90 Đ pour les rouges et 5 Đ pour les blancs, sans jamais dépasser les 25 Đ, tel ce Baron de Brane-Cantenac. Le prix les classe. Un plombier de Garges-lès-Gonesse ou un général du Kazakhstan peuvent s'emparer d'un flacon en fonction du billet disponible. Plus loin, les magnums à moins de 50 euros et les doubles magnums à moins de 100 euros. En face, les « bons rapports qualité-prix ». À droite aussi l'espace dévolu aux trois ou quatre viticulteurs mis en lumière chaque mois. Visiblement, des propriétés confirmées et d'autres qui méritent de le devenir. Avec un choix saisonnier de rosés. Ici, le vin est facile d'accès, palpable tout de suite. C'est le vin sans peine pour tous. Au bout du couloir, un deuxième espace s'enroule autour de la rotonde. À gauche, la zone « Rive gauche-rive droite » des crus bourgeois, dont certains sont mis en avant - en l'occurrence Chasse-Spleen - et les seconds vins disposés en deux parties : le second de grand cru et le second de premier grand cru. Devant nous, dix millésimes des Forts de Latour, le second de Latour. Se profilent sur la gauche les contenants hors normes. Impériales, jéroboams, nabuchodonosors. Un 15 litres de Lynch-Bages 2000 - quelle émotion ! -précède les magnums de grands crus classés par appellation. Puis les millésimes antérieurs à 1975, soudés aux tiroirs. Il n'est pas possible de les décrocher sans voir surgir la gendarmerie. Touchons néanmoins furtivement un Cos d'Estournel 1985. Suivent sauternes, blancs secs et demi-bouteilles pour petites ambitions.

Le sanctuaire La rotonde extérieure est organisée dans une logique géographique. Le voyage commence à Saint-Estèphe et se poursuit par Pauillac (huit millésimes de Pontet-Canet) les trois Léoville, Saint-Julien, Margaux. On change de rive en tournant, Pomerol, Saint-Émilion, Pessac-Léognan avant de revenir à Saint-Estèphe. La balade initiatique, toujours, mène à l'intérieur de la rotonde où veille la garde royale sous une lumière intimiste. L'espace des grands est une chapelle ceinte des portraits de philosophes grecs et romains de Jim Dine, figure américaine du pop art. Margaux, Lafitte, Latour, Mouton, Haut-Brion, Mission Haut-Brion, Cheval-Blanc et Petrus sont là en majesté. Petite accélération du coeur avec un Margaux 1961, un Haut-Brion 1989, un Mouton 1945 à 20 000 euros. Ils contemplent Yquem au centre, célébré comme la Vierge noire de Jasna Góra dans le sanctuaire de Czestochowa. Le sauternes, représenté par 24 millésimes sous Plexiglas, de 1899 à 2006, doit autant cette auréole christique à son génie qu'à ses couleurs d'automne en feu. Ici, dans les dégradés du peintre, hors du temps, on pourrait considérer qu'il s'agit d'un espace culturel, quelque chose qui tiendrait du musée de l'Ermitage à Saint-Pétersbourg ou du Moma, le musée d'Art moderne de New York. Mais qu'une équipe permanente de sommeliers raconte.

La Bordeauxthèque, cave exclusive, est en réalité un moment somptueux à vivre. Pour la première fois, une vitrine permet d'embrasser, dans l'unité de lieu, l'empire des appellations bordelaises, des tableaux méconnus aux chefs-d'oeuvre de l'élite. C'est-à-dire cette capacité unique à affirmer la civilisation du vin jusqu'aux tréfonds de la planète.

Christian Seguin - Sud Ouest

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Lundi 10 Mai 2010

04 Janv. 2010 au 01 Juill. 2010 - Franche Comté : Exposition Jura Terre d' AOC -Arlay

15 Mars 2010 au 26 Juin 2010 - Aquitaine : La Winery fête ses 3 ans avec un concours photo - Arsac

16 Avril 2010 au 23 Mai 2010 - Aquitaine : Exposition de Bernadette Charpentier en Jurançon - Lacommande

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Primeur 2009, un millésime exceptionnel en période de crise : le temps des affaires ?« Les grands crus de Bordeaux se dégustent et se réservent en primeurs à partir de [...] » 17.03.2010

Revue de presse Terre de Vins avril 2010« En marge Le monde du vin a rendez-vous cette semaine à Bordeaux où se déroulent [...] » 01.04.2010

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Home Tasting notes Forum News Our views Your views Videos Maps Oxford Companion Resources

5 Jul 2010 by Jancis Robinson



30 Jun 2010 by Jancis Robinson



24 Jun 2010 by Patricia Stefanowicz MW

[Previous] [Next]


The final Saturday afternoon session, and the last one I attended as I had to return to London early Sunday morning* was entitled ‘Forging Links between Asian markets and the international wine industry’, a topical topic and one that involved a little bit of overlap with Judy Leissner’s entertaining presentation on the Chinese market described here. (I should point out that the overall theme of the symposium was Forging Links, the idea being that the programme, with its high ratio of receptions and meals, was designed to maximise networking. It was certainly noticeable that there was none of the ‘MWs v the rest’ ethos that was detectable at some of the early MW symposia. (My strongest memory of the 1988 one at Cambridge was of the Wine Spectator team desperately scouring this rather quaint university town for a hotel room with air conditioning for their boss Marvin Shanken.)

Moderator Jeannie Cho Lee MW had put considerable work into this last session before our Saturday night gala dinner at Ch Pontet-Canet (pictured). She began by reminding us of the results of Chinese censorship: no Facebook , no Twitter etc allowed in China (as evinced by this recent thread in our forum). As for ownership of wine enterprises, China offered the particularly common third option after family and corporation ownership: government ownership.

‘When considering Asian markets I always look at Japan because they’re a generation ahead,’ cautioned Jeannie, reminding us that Japan was the great Asian hope 20 years ago. ‘There was huge optimism about Japanese annual wine consumption’s reaching 5 litres a head but in fact plateaued at 2.5.’ There has already been a boom and bust of the wine market in Japan. In 1997 there was a huge surplus of wine there that took a year or two to clea, a result of enthusiasm and then dumping. ‘If correlate GDP and the growth of wine market, we see an absolute parallel,’ she added.

‘People had huge hopes for Korea two years ago. Now the wine industry in Korea is shrinking because the trade was ahead of itself and too eager at the beginning. All the big companies [the big four who rule the Korean economy] jumped into wine.’ [One new London fine wine trader, Wine Networks, has emerged primarily to divest its Korean owner of its stocks, for example.]

Jeannie Cho Lee is Korean, but based in Hong Kong so in an ideal position to bring us up to date on that flourishing wine hub. ‘Hong Kong is in a wonderful place at the moment,’ she said. ‘We’ve seen a crazy rollercoaster ride with wine taxation recently. But the government fully backs the wine industry – a quite different situation from most other countries. Hong Kong is re-exporting 20% of its wines, with 93% to China or Macau. Is this really a hub therefore?’

On the complexities of the wine trade in Asia she added, ‘there’s lots of potential for growth here, especially in China, Taiwan and Korea, even though the on trade, which represented 50% of sales, doesn’t command the respect and position of, say, sommeliers in Japan. Hong Kong has a huge culture of bringing you own wine even to the smartest restaurants and hotels. This has been established for 10 -20 years because originally restaurants there didn’t have wine glasses, wine lists etc.’

‘As for the off trade in Hong Kong – retailers Watsons will tell you it’s essentially a gifting market. When you give wine as a gift, it may well be circulated rather than consumed. Apparent sales may just be furnishing wine lists in new hotels and restaurants.

‘The “face” issue is very important. Red packets of money are routinely doled out in the gift season.’

The well known, urbane Singapore-based wine writer Poh Tiong Ch’ng of The Wine Review (see Matching Chinese food and wine) spoke next.

Referring to the urban myth of fine wines’ being diluted by cola and Sprite, he added, ‘the bad news is that most of you are still adding milk and sugar to your tea’, reminding us that when the French first bought tea it would have been from China.’ He went to draw a picture of just how primitive his native China was until very recently. ‘Even in Shanghai and Beijing loads of people would come out at night to read by the light of the street lights. There was no electric light and no soap in homes. In 1990 there were just two Rollers in Beijing.

‘The strategy that works in Japan won’t work in China,’ he warned us. ‘Unlike the Japanese, in China we don’t need to know everything about a product before enjoying it. The Chinese don’t have to come and see Bordeaux, Tuscany etc. Mind you, every year there are five to 10 Chinese students in Bordeaux University’s oenology faculty and in China there are now more than 300 qualified oenologists.’

He also gave us some tips on etiquette for when we visit China:

‘Don’t play with your chopsticks. Whatever you do, don’t hit the Chinese on the head; that would be the greatest insult. And don’t mention Tibet. ‘ He strongly recommended in particular Xinran’s last book, Message from an Unknown Chinese Mother and Peter Hassler’s first book, Oracle Bones as providing keys for understanding this important new wine market.


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Moses Tsang is chairman of Asia Partners and is famous in Hong Kong as someone who can raise $9m in a trice for his nature conservancy whose tentacles spread as far as the Great Barrier Reef. He has spent 32 years in finance in Asia, many of them heading up Goldman Sachs in Asia.

He reminded us that China now the fifth biggest consumer and seventh biggest producer of wine in the world. ‘Transparency has improved enormously in last decade,’ he assured us, referring to doing business in China, but added, ‘there are four critical aspects:

You need a good local business partner1.

Your investment strategy should match, for example, the shift to the growing consumption of domestically produced wine

2.

Beijing has been clamping down on investment in homes at the expense of commercial property

3.

You need to have a deep understanding of local, provincial and national governments – you need to be able to work on all levels (back to Judy Leissner’s terrifying list of all relevant Chinese government departments shown in Part 4)

4.

For example, he said, the government suddenly decided that joint ventures [on which many early European ventures in China were based] were illegal. A long term strategy is needed. There is no fast buck route yet You’re there to give something to China, not just take. China has identified sustainable development as a key component of business.’

Moses Tsang asked rhetorically whether the Chinese economy is a bubble? Specifically with regard to ’09 bordeaux. He pointed out that the Asian stock market has dropped more than 25% recently ‘which helped the market calm down, so the Asian market may rebound.’ ‘So the ‘09s may not be overpriced?’ Jeannie interjected.

‘Property prices have climbed quite a bit, especially in second tier cities,’ said Moses Tsang carefully, ‘so I’m cautiously optimistic’.

We were reminded that wine in China does not have the association with relaxation that it enjoys in the west. Instead it might be served to thank a business associate, a government official, or ‘a principal who has admitted your child to their school’. There are Chinese who really enjoy wines, but they are the minority for the moment.

At question time, slightly abbreviated by the need for all participants to don their ‘festive dress’ in time for the long bus ride up the Médoc, Jeannie was asked by Sarah Abbott MW about how genuine the fine wines in commercial circulation are. Jeannie said some buyers will buy anyway but savvy consumers know all about what questions to ask about provenance. Sarah Abbott was concerned that in Asia there is a distinct lack of a secondary market for fine wine. ‘Some companies emphasise provenance more than others,’ she was told.

Poh Tiong predicted, ‘short of economic catastrophe, the wine market in China will double in the next five years or so – although wine growth is actually pretty slow compared to the growth of sales of luxury handbags, cars etc.’

American wine writer Ed McCarthy returned to Sarah Abbott’s them with the question ‘What will you do about fake wines?’ Moses Tsang’s response ‘we buy through very prominent brokers’ felt less than wholly satisfactory. Moses Tsang explained ‘I gave 40 cases from my cellar to [US auctioneers] Zachy’s to help get auctions going in Hong Kong, but prices had zoomed up by the second auction’.

On the subject of Chinese fakery, Poh Tiong told us that many people deliberately buy their Chinese medicines in Singapore to take back to China to give as gifts in China because they feel they can trust Singapore retailers more. He also said, about the Chinese and Bordeaux primeurs, ‘three years ago we thought the Chinese wouldn’t buy primeurs because they couldn’t touch the goods they had paid for, but now they do buy primeurs, seeing them like an investment in, say, copper whereby you pay now and get it later’.

And on that worrying note, we broke up for the day, only to meet again at a great dinner at Pontet Canet where our host Alfred Tesseron served, inter alia, three red bordeaux blind with the main course to our entire group of 300+, symposium participants plus château owners and so on. We were told there was no relation between them and had to hand in our guesses, with a prize for the top tasters. They were clearly good wines and, I thought, from good vintages in the 1980s, but it didn’t occur to me that our host would have been so generous. They turned out to be Chx Mouton 1988, Latour 1986 and Lafite 1985. (I’d say there was a connection between those three…)

In a raucous presentation, the tasters whose notes were plucked out of several (most?) correct answers as winner and runner up were Linda Jotham MW of the UK and Jennifer Simonetti-Bryan of the US. Most successful blind tasters among non MWs were Francois Lurton (brother of symposium co-organiser Jacques) and Jean-Guillaume Prats of Ch Cos d’Estournel.

I will be publishing notes on these blind wines and all wines I tasted during these great two and half days in Bordeaux.

*The session I regretfully missed was entitled 'Modern Legends: Fame, Fortune and Lessons to be Learned' with Paul Draper of Ridge, Peter Gago of Penfolds Grange, Alvaro Palacios of Spain and Paul Pontallier of Ch Margaux, all moderated by Jean-Michel Valette MW. (Putting any of these names in our general search box for 'Rest of site; will yield rich results.)

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"Pontet-Canet : un grand cru de Bordeaux produit en bio et biodynamie "

24 septembre 2010

Le grand cru du Médoc devrait être certifié bio cette année. Les principes de l’agriculture biodynamique y sont également très largement appliqués. Une reconversion parfois difficile mais qui s’avère payante : le succès commercial est au rendez-vous .

Pourquoi ?C’est avant tout pour des raisons de qualité que les responsables du domaine de Pontet-Canet à Pauillac dans le Médoc ont décidé il y a quelques années de s’orienter vers le bio puis la biodynamie. En continuant avec des méthodes conventionnelles, ils craignaient de perdre à terme en qualité. « Les grands vins sont tous basés sur de grands terroirs. Or nous étions petit à petit en train de détruire nos sols», insiste Jean-Michel Comme, le régisseur du domaine. Concrètement, les pesticides utilisés étaient en train de tuer tous les champignons et la vie présente dans le sol. En passant dans les rangs de vigne, les tracteurs tassaient la terre, ce qui n’est pas bon, là encore pour la vie qui est dedans. Les pieds de vigne étaient souvent abimés au passage des engins. Ils n’étaient plus bien ancrés dans le sol. « Or des pieds de vigne affaiblis c’est comme une personne qui n’a pas une bonne hygiène de vie, ils sont plus sensibles aux maladies », explique le régisseur.

Comment ?La conversion de Pontet-Canet au bio puis à la biodynamie est étroitement liée au cheminement personnel qu’a connu son régisseur. Ingénieur et œnologue de formation, Jean-Michel Comme qui travaille sur le domaine depuis plus de 20 ans a très longtemps fait comme on lui avait appris pendant ses études. « On nous avait dit que la chimie et la mécanique étaient la solution idéale et définitive. Progressivement je me suis rendu compte que les choses n’étaient pas aussi simples». Il y a une dizaine d’année, la survenue autour de lui de maladies graves chez des personnes qui toute leur vie avaient travaillé la terre l’a amené à une profonde remise en question. Il s’est interrogé – et inquiété - sur le rôle de l’alimentation dans la santé. Il a commencé à avoir envie d’explorer d’autres modes de culture.

En plus de son travail à Pontet-Canet, Jean-Michel Comme exploite avec sa femme un vignoble de 10 ha, le Château du Champs des Treilles à Sainte Foy. C’est là qu’il va expérimenter et apprendre d’autres façons de travailler. Dans sa nouvelle formation : beaucoup de lectures, énormément d’observation et de temps passer sur le terrain. En 2004, en même temps qu’il obtient la certification bio pour son vignoble, il s’intéresse de plus en plus à la biodynamie. 14 ha sont testés avec ces méthodes à Pontet-Canet sur les 80 ha que compte le domaine. « En biodynamie, on s’efforce de comprendre les phénomènes, à chercher les causes avant de tenter un traitement ou une action. Il s’agit par exemple de comprendre pourquoi à tel moment tel insecte ravageur va se multiplier à tel endroit et pas à tel autre». Là encore dans sa formation, on retrouve beaucoup de lectures et des échanges avec des personnes qui agissent et énormément de temps passer sur le terrain.

En 2007, l’approche biodynamique vient réellement au premier plan dans ses méthodes que ce soit au Champs des Treilles ou à Pontet-Canet : cette année fut très difficile pour le vignoble avec des attaques virulentes de mildiou. « Nous avons perdu notre récolte. Nous nous sommes dits qu’il fallait vraiment trouver d’autres façons de faire pour que cela ne se reproduise pas ». A Pontet-Canet cette année-là aussi les dégâts causés par les maladies sont très sévères. Alors que le vignoble était dans sa troisième et dernière année de conversion avant l’obtention du label bio, le propriétaire décide en dernier recours de traiter en conventionnel. « Nous avons fait trois traitements en quinze jours fin juillet et du coup il a fallu tout reprendre à zéro pour la conversion », raconte le régisseur. Une période difficile qui ne remet pourtant pas en cause les décisions prises.

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A Pontet-Canet, les quelques 50 salariés qui travaillent sur le domaine, d’abord septiques devant ses nouvelles méthodes – « quand on prépare des tisanes d’orties ce n’est pas très commun » - ont peu à peu vu les avantages qu’ils pouvaient en tirer : plus d’odeurs de produits chimiques à respirer, plus de boutons ni de rougeurs dès qu’ils touchent les feuillent... Du côté de leur travail, pas de changement radical cependant : le travail sur un vignoble de grand cru est en effet resté très largement manuel et si en biodynamie il est souvent recommandé de faire les traitements tôt le matin, ces personnes étaient déjà habituées à travailler tôt. Pour limiter les passages des tracteurs dans le vignoble, le projet se fait jour d’intégrer des chevaux de trait sur le domaine. Pas pour le folklore mais bien pour travailler réellement.

L’objectif est d’être capable de tout faire avec des chevaux. Mais attention, il ne s’agit pas non plus de demander aux salariés de marcher toute la journée derrière les bêtes comme par le passé. A terme, si tout le domaine est exploité avec des chevaux ce sont 10 meneurs qui vont être nécessaires. Une voiture d’un genre un peu particulier est alors mise au point à la propriété. « Les gens sont tractés par un cheval mais ils sont assis. Ils ont des conditions de travail modernes, sans pénibilité particulière. Des panneaux solaires assurent l’éclairage », explique Jean-Michel Comme. Depuis trois ans, ce sont trois chevaux qui arpentent les vignes de Pontet-Canet. En 2010, 24 ha ont été travaillés de cette manière.

Pour quels résultats ?A Pontet Canet la récolte 2010 sera cette fois-ci certifiée bio. Une première pour un grand cru classé du Médoc. Il y a bien quelques essais dans d’autres domaines mais ils ne concernent pour le moment que de petites surfaces et pas la totalité de l’exploitation comme ici. Alors que le secteur viticole connait pour certains de grandes difficultés, Pontet-Canet est épargné. Les résultats commerciaux des dernières années ont été bons. Le domaine n’affichera cependant pas sur ses bouteilles le logo AB : paradoxalement en effet l’image des vins bio n’est aujourd’hui pas toujours très bonne, pas rattachée en tous les cas à l’univers des grands crus. Pas de logo donc mais une démarche qui continue plus que jamais.

Auteur : Juliette Lakits

"Pontet-Canet : un grand cru de Bordeaux produit en bio et biodynamie "

24 septembre 2010

Le grand cru du Médoc devrait être certifié bio cette année. Les principes de l’agriculture biodynamique y sont également très largement appliqués. Une reconversion parfois difficile mais qui s’avère payante : le succès commercial est au rendez-vous .

Pourquoi ?C’est avant tout pour des raisons de qualité que les responsables du domaine de Pontet-Canet à Pauillac dans le Médoc ont décidé il y a quelques années de s’orienter vers le bio puis la biodynamie. En continuant avec des méthodes conventionnelles, ils craignaient de perdre à terme en qualité. « Les grands vins sont tous basés sur de grands terroirs. Or nous étions petit à petit en train de détruire nos sols», insiste Jean-Michel Comme, le régisseur du domaine. Concrètement, les pesticides utilisés étaient en train de tuer tous les champignons et la vie présente dans le sol. En passant dans les rangs de vigne, les tracteurs tassaient la terre, ce qui n’est pas bon, là encore pour la vie qui est dedans. Les pieds de vigne étaient souvent abimés au passage des engins. Ils n’étaient plus bien ancrés dans le sol. « Or des pieds de vigne affaiblis c’est comme une personne qui n’a pas une bonne hygiène de vie, ils sont plus sensibles aux maladies », explique le régisseur.

Comment ?La conversion de Pontet-Canet au bio puis à la biodynamie est étroitement liée au cheminement personnel qu’a connu son régisseur. Ingénieur et œnologue de formation, Jean-Michel Comme qui travaille sur le domaine depuis plus de 20 ans a très longtemps fait comme on lui avait appris pendant ses études. « On nous avait dit que la chimie et la mécanique étaient la solution idéale et définitive. Progressivement je me suis rendu compte que les choses n’étaient pas aussi simples». Il y a une dizaine d’année, la survenue autour de lui de maladies graves chez des personnes qui toute leur vie avaient travaillé la terre l’a amené à une profonde remise en question. Il s’est interrogé – et inquiété - sur le rôle de l’alimentation dans la santé. Il a commencé à avoir envie d’explorer d’autres modes de culture.

En plus de son travail à Pontet-Canet, Jean-Michel Comme exploite avec sa femme un vignoble de 10 ha, le Château du Champs des Treilles à Sainte Foy. C’est là qu’il va expérimenter et apprendre d’autres façons de travailler. Dans sa nouvelle formation : beaucoup de lectures, énormément d’observation et de temps passer sur le terrain. En 2004, en même temps qu’il obtient la certification bio pour son vignoble, il s’intéresse de plus en plus à la biodynamie. 14 ha sont testés avec ces méthodes à Pontet-Canet sur les 80 ha que compte le domaine. « En biodynamie, on s’efforce de comprendre les phénomènes, à chercher les causes avant de tenter un traitement ou une action. Il s’agit par exemple de comprendre pourquoi à tel moment tel insecte ravageur va se multiplier à tel endroit et pas à tel autre». Là encore dans sa formation, on retrouve beaucoup de lectures et des échanges avec des personnes qui agissent et énormément de temps passer sur le terrain.

En 2007, l’approche biodynamique vient réellement au premier plan dans ses méthodes que ce soit au Champs des Treilles ou à Pontet-Canet : cette année fut très difficile pour le vignoble avec des attaques virulentes de mildiou. « Nous avons perdu notre récolte. Nous nous sommes dits qu’il fallait vraiment trouver d’autres façons de faire pour que cela ne se reproduise pas ». A Pontet-Canet cette année-là aussi les dégâts causés par les maladies sont très sévères. Alors que le vignoble était dans sa troisième et dernière année de conversion avant l’obtention du label bio, le propriétaire décide en dernier recours de traiter en conventionnel. « Nous avons fait trois traitements en quinze jours fin juillet et du coup il a fallu tout reprendre à zéro pour la conversion », raconte le régisseur. Une période difficile qui ne remet pourtant pas en cause les décisions prises.

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Two things have made Pontet-Canet a topic of conversation for Bordeaux lovers in recent years: the dramatic rise in the

quality of the wine, and the decision to work the vineyard biodynamically. To my knowledge, Pontet-Canet is the only Médoc classed growth to have taken this bold initiative. Others have ongoing trials in parcels of vines, but none has around 80ha (200 acres) worked in this way. The question, however, remains: are these two talking points related? Alfred Tesseron, Pontet-Canet’s owner, certainly hopes so. As he says, “The leitmotif is not the organics but making better wine.”

It was Alfred’s father, Cognac merchant Guy Tesseron, who bought the estate in 1975. Prior to that, Pontet-Canet had been owned by the négociant Cruse since 1865. The wine was well known in France (particularly on French railways) thanks to the distribution network of the Cruse family. But until 1972 it was bottled at the merchant’s cellars in Bordeaux, occasionally without a vintage date, and the property and wine were treated generally as just another brand.

Alfred Tesseron admits that after the purchase, in the 1970s and ’80s, there was little money for investment. The vineyard was in poor shape, and a programme of grubbing up and replanting was initiated; this lasted into the 1990s. A second wine, Les Hauts de Pontet-Canet, was introduced in 1982 to improve selection, and green-harvesting was trialled in 1989, becoming systematic, until recently, from 1994. A new cuvier was also created.

Since 1999, investment in the winery has been on a much larger scale. Buildings for bottle storage and agricultural equipment have been constructed, the barrel cellar enlarged and renovated, and the cuvier redefined. This now contains 16 wooden vats and 32 conical 80hl concrete vats, as well as sorting tables for the harvest.

The vineyard is divided into two blocks. The core area, representing two thirds of the plantings,

surrounds the 19th-century château on a plateau opposite Mouton Rothschild. In fact, there are two undulating croupes here that rise to a high point of 30m (100ft). These elevated sections with deep Günzian gravel soils are considered the noblest terroir, the inclines having a greater proportion of sand and clay. The other sector is located just north of the town of Pauillac. The soils are more varied and principally Merlot is planted here.

The move to biodynamics was initiated and has been driven by Jean-Michel Comme, the technical director at Pontet-Canet for the past 20 years. “On reflection, it seemed the best solution to avoid chemicals and maintain quality,” he says. The process, though, has been gradual. Pesticides were abandoned in 2001 and weedkiller in 2003, with an initial 14ha (35 acres) converted

Pontet-Canet

Above: One of the horses now employed in Pontet-Canet’s vineyards, where they compact the soil less than tractors

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FINEST WINES

Château Pontet-CanetThe vineyard is 60% CS, 33% M, 5% CF, and 2% PV. The grapes are gravity-fed and crushed over the tanks. In keeping with the natural approach, only indigenous yeasts are used, and the temperature of each tank is regulated manually. Aging is in 60% new oak barrels. The wines themselves are deep in colour, dense, and powerful—the masculine side of Pauillac in full cry. Patience is needed before they can be broached. The nearest comparison would be a wine like Pichon-Longueville. Quality has been particularly high since 2000. 2001 More immediate charm than some recent vintages but still has the tannins to age. Blackcurrant notes and a minerally freshness on the finish.2003 Deep colour. Rather closed, with a robust tannic frame. Fresh for the vintage. Needs time.

Château Pontet-CanetTotal area: 120ha (300 acres)Area under vine: 81ha (200 acres)Average production: grand vin 250,000 bottles; second wine 100,000 bottles33250 PauillacTel: +33 5 56 59 04 04www.pontet-canet.com

Above: Pontet-Canet’s owner Alfred Tesseron, who has boldly backed the move to convert his vineyards to biodynamics

to biodynamics in 2004. Since 2005, the whole vineyard has been biodynamic, with the process to full conversion delayed by a decision to spray for mildew in 2007. “We regretted it in the end, since other properties took a loss like us, but 15 days after spraying, we’d returned to biodynamics,” Comme explains.

According to Comme, the vineyard has found a natural balance since 2008. They now do very little green-harvesting or trimming and are trialling horses to work the vines. He pointed to one parcel that produced a natural 45hl/ha in 2008 and said it would be the same in 2009. It is in this parcel that the link between practice and quality is most apparent—a link that Comme describes succinctly: “It’s knowledge of the terroir by observation that counts, which means being morally and physically present all the time.” Comme is a hard-bitten convert; Alfred Tesseron, I suspect, less so—but while the quality is there, he’s happy to take the road.

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Pick of the bunch Oct 8 2010(http://www.journallive.co.uk/north-east-taste/wine-reviews/helen-savage/2010/10/08/)

By Helen Savage, The Journal

CHÂTEAU Pontet-Canet makes some of the best red

wines in Bordeaux. Its magnificent vineyards are cheek by jowl with those of Châteaux Mouton-Rothschild and Lafite in the heart of the village of Pauillac, the source of the world’s greatest and most expensive Cabernet Sauvignon.

It’s a large estate and one of the oldest estates in the Médoc. Some 81 of its 120 hectares are planted with vines. Around two-thirds of them are Cabernet Sauvignon; the rest are mostly Merlot with a little bit of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. They are planted in long, low, narrow rows on unforgiving, deep, gravel soils beneath huge skies, which on the day I visited last month, were grey and rather lonely.

Pontet-Canet was classified as one of the top 60 estates of the Médoc in 1855 when France chose to showcase its finest goods to the world in a great exhibition in Paris, but it was placed in the fifth of five ranks.

At times over the next 130 years it made wines so good that it was clear it should have been ranked higher, but since the mid-1990s its quality has been such that if the classification were ever to be re-drawn, which vested interests will never permit, it would offer the clearest of cases for promotion.

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In 1975 it was bought by Guy Tesseron, the owner of a Cognac house. His son Alfred now shares control of the estate with his niece Mélanie, who showed me around. They are lucky to have the services of a brilliant technical director, Jean-Michel Comme, who has been at Pontet-Canet since 1989 – though he hardly looks old enough.

Alfred introduced exacting new standards of work in the vineyards, but Jean-Michel has persuaded him to go further and allow them to be converted to biodynamic viticulture, the first of the great estates in the Médoc to follow this exacting form of organics that involves the use of a strict homeopathic spray regime and careful attention to the movement of the moon, planets and distant constellations.

Mélanie told me that “if it didn’t work we’d give it up”; and in 2007, faced with a devastating attack of mildew, they did just that and resorted to conventional chemical sprays. They now rather regret it and delight in the evident health of the soil now that biodynamics has been reinstated.

The vines are severely pruned, “we’re always trying to bonsai them”, says Mélanie; but, the homeopathic sprays and other permitted treatment apart, unlike other growers, they largely leave them alone during the growing season. They don’t reduce the crop by cutting the number of bunches when they begin to ripen, nor do they pluck away leaves to expose the bunches.

Mélanie argues that the vines have sufficient aeration and all the leaves are needed to bring sugar to the fruit. The tight bunches of deep blue grapes certainly looked healthy.

Mélanie was excited about the prospects for the 2010 vintage. “It’s been a fantastic season,” she said, “similar to 2009. May, June and July were hotter. August was a bit cooler, though very dry and September has been perfect.” Harvest began in the last week of September.

The latest members of the team are a trio of Breton draught horses, Reine, Kakou and Opal, who together work about a third of the estate. Now that it is not subject to tractor tyres, the soil is obviously far less compacted. “It’s as if you’ve been wearing tight shoes all day and can’t wait to take them off,” says Mélanie, who after several years working in London offices, knows exactly what she’s talking about.

The team has also brought a number of changes to the winery. The most striking is the introduction of an army of small bell-shaped concrete fermentation tanks made out of thick, raw concrete.



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In 1975 it was bought by Guy Tesseron, the owner of a Cognac house. His son Alfred now shares control of the estate with his niece Mélanie, who showed me around. They are lucky to have the services of a brilliant technical director, Jean-Michel Comme, who has been at Pontet-Canet since 1989 – though he hardly looks old enough.

Alfred introduced exacting new standards of work in the vineyards, but Jean-Michel has persuaded him to go further and allow them to be converted to biodynamic viticulture, the first of the great estates in the Médoc to follow this exacting form of organics that involves the use of a strict homeopathic spray regime and careful attention to the movement of the moon, planets and distant constellations.

Mélanie told me that “if it didn’t work we’d give it up”; and in 2007, faced with a devastating attack of mildew, they did just that and resorted to conventional chemical sprays. They now rather regret it and delight in the evident health of the soil now that biodynamics has been reinstated.

The vines are severely pruned, “we’re always trying to bonsai them”, says Mélanie; but, the homeopathic sprays and other permitted treatment apart, unlike other growers, they largely leave them alone during the growing season. They don’t reduce the crop by cutting the number of bunches when they begin to ripen, nor do they pluck away leaves to expose the bunches.

Mélanie argues that the vines have sufficient aeration and all the leaves are needed to bring sugar to the fruit. The tight bunches of deep blue grapes certainly looked healthy.

Mélanie was excited about the prospects for the 2010 vintage. “It’s been a fantastic season,” she said, “similar to 2009. May, June and July were hotter. August was a bit cooler, though very dry and September has been perfect.” Harvest began in the last week of September.

The latest members of the team are a trio of Breton draught horses, Reine, Kakou and Opal, who together work about a third of the estate. Now that it is not subject to tractor tyres, the soil is obviously far less compacted. “It’s as if you’ve been wearing tight shoes all day and can’t wait to take them off,” says Mélanie, who after several years working in London offices, knows exactly what she’s talking about.

The team has also brought a number of changes to the winery. The most striking is the introduction of an army of small bell-shaped concrete fermentation tanks made out of thick, raw concrete.



octobre

...

They allow small lots to be vinified separately and the thick concrete walls hold the wine at a stable, consistent temperature. The wines made in them, Mélanie says, seem softer and more complex.

Jean-Michel Comme, the “guru” behind Pontet-Canet’s success is quietly spoken but very clear about what he wants to do and about his responsibilities to the estate’s 50-strong work force.

He admits that adopting a biodynamic regime was a risk, but when in 2008 the team tasted the new vintage and “for the first time in my 22 years at Pontet-Canet, they laughed for the sheer joy of what had been achieved together, it sent shivers down my spine”.

Mélanie is determined that Pontet-Canet should make wine as good as its most famous neighbours. It’s expensive, of course. An advance order of a case of the brilliant 2009 will set you back about £1,600, but Lafite costs 10 times more. The difference in quality is very small. If you love the incredible, seductive complexity of great wine, save up and treat yourself, just once, to a bottle of this superb wine. Berry Brothers and Rudd offer bottles of the 2002, 04 and 07 vintages at £48, £52 and £59 respectively (www.bbr.com). For tasting notes on recent harvests, see my

blog for May 13 at www.helensavage.com (http://www.helensavage.com/)

WINE OF THE WEEK

Viña Pomal Rioja Crianza 2006 £8.99 at Majestic (£6.74 if you buy two)

RICH, spicy red with ripe plummy fruit, dusted by just enough spicy oak. It has power and concentration to stand up to a rich meaty stew, or to lamb shanks braised in red wine.

Wine Extras

Even the best red Rioja is cheaper than good red Bordeaux; but apart from the fact that they’re red and usually aged in small oak barrels, the similarities end there. Tempranillo rules in the warm, continental climate of northern Spain, sometimes blended with a little Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano. One of the best producers in the slightly cooler, Rioja Alta district is Cune. I love all their wines across the range and their latest releases are superb. Cune Crianza 2007 (£8.99 at Majestic) is vividly fruity, with immensely attractive, juicy strawberry and blackcurrant flavours. Cune Reserva 2006 (£10.99 at Waitrose and £12.79 Majestic, though just £9.59 if you buy two) is much more spicy and even a little balsamic with delicious plum and bramble fruit and silky, lingering tannins. Finer still, Cune Imperial Gran Reserva 1999 (£25.50 from www.bbr.com) has an amazingly complex aroma of



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Vins & Gastronomie - Octobre / Novembre 2010

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Revue du Vin de France - Hors Série Crus et Caves - 2010


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Chateau Pontet Canet, A Little Bit Of Luxury From The Vineyards Editorial | Image Courtesy Of Chateau Pontet Canet

Guy Tesseron bought the Chateau while it was undergoing hard times in 1975 and today the Chateau is run by Guy's son, Alfred Tesseron assisted by his niece Melanie.

During the early 18th century Jean Francois Pontet brought together several of the very best vineyards in Pauillac. Some years later, descendents added more vines and named it Canet. This was to be the start of one of the largest luxuryestates in Medoc. Almost a century later Pontet Canet was included in the 1855 classification, ensuring membership among the very best of Medoc. Henry Crusean important Bordeaux shipper of that time bought the estate in 1865 and setabout building new cellars and modernized the Chateau thereby establishing thereputation of the luxury wine around the world. The family went on to own the Chateau for more than one hundred years until it was bought by Tesseron.

In 1989 the Chateau saw the recruitment of Jean Michel Comme, an engineer oenologist of the very best and in this year the first green harvest was seen. Five years later Tesserons father gave him carte blanche to make his first vintage and two years later restoration of the oak vat room took place and saw the introduction of smaller new vats. An area was also built specifically for keeping stock that was already bottled. In 1999 a new double luxury reception room for the vintage was planned for the first floor and the name of the Chateau changed from Chateau Les Hauts de Pontet to Chateau Pontet-Canet.

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Chateau Pontet Canet, A Little Bit Of Luxury From The Vineyards Editorial | Image Courtesy Of Chateau Pontet Canet

In 2001 it was decided that pumps would no longer be used to fill the fermenters and the Chateau returned to the old 19th century system of working by gravity. Another change was made in 2002 when the use of pesticides in the vineyards ceased and a year later a purification station was built. 2005 saw the installation of 32 concrete vats with a capacity of 80hl for the reception of the harvest, these vats were gravity filled only.

In 2005 the daughter of Gerard Tesseron, Melanie, joined the Pontet Canet team and become a breath of fresh air to the Chateau with her excellentcommunication skills. The first harvest using only biodynamic practices throughout the whole of the 81 hectares on the property was also seen in 2005. In 2007 thanks to her excellent passion for wine Melanie reached the top grade in the DUAD. Melanie wanted to continue developing here knowledge of wine and joined the ENITAs wine property management masters 2 in Bordeaux where she graduated successfully in 2009.

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白兰地的生地华夏酒报·中国酒业新闻网作者：编辑：马宁时间：2010-4-26 9:19:56 订阅邮订阅邮订阅邮订阅邮箱快箱快箱快箱快讯讯讯讯

白白白白兰兰兰兰地就是地就是地就是地就是从从从从葡萄酒中蒸葡萄酒中蒸葡萄酒中蒸葡萄酒中蒸馏馏馏馏出的酒精出的酒精出的酒精出的酒精

白兰地即从葡萄酒中蒸馏出的酒精，在全世界范围内都有生产，而最为著名的产区来自于法国两个产地，即干邑（Cognac）和雅马邑（Armagnac）。

众所周知，汽酒是一种带有气泡的葡萄酒，最为著名的产区是法国的香槟地区，法律规定只有生产在香槟地区的气泡酒才能够冠以“香槟”之称；与香槟类似的是所谓的“干邑”和“雅玛邑”，只有分别生产于这两个区域，并且严格按照地区的法律规定所生产出的白兰地才能够冠以这两个名称。

干邑产区紧靠著名红葡萄酒故乡波尔多的北部，由于靠近海洋和河流，水运非常方便，当时在这个产区所酿造出的葡萄酒，由于酸度太高而质量不太令人满意，可当时法国对于酒水的税款按照体积来计算，这对于利润本来就不高的干邑地区来说，明显就是一个赔本的生意，在这样的情况下，有人开始将葡萄酒进行蒸馏和浓缩来降低税款，等用橡木桶运送到目的地后再进行勾兑，进行贩卖。

后来的一系列战争迫使从业者不得不暂停这项业务，所有蒸馏出的酒液只好先保存在橡木桶中，战争结束后，酒商们迫不及待地重新开始葡萄酒的贩卖业务，在拿出蒸馏的酒液时，他们发现，在经过长时间橡木桶储藏后的葡萄酒蒸馏液口感变得非常柔和，拥有美好的橡木桶香气和葡萄酒香气，色泽也因为橡木桶的储藏而显得典雅高贵，就在这样的巧合之下，诞生了日后被人们称为“生命之水（eau de vie）”的白兰地。

命运总是喜欢和人开玩笑，本来是劣质葡萄酒的产地的干邑，作为白兰地的诞生之地而一举成名，为了保护该产地白兰地的声誉和质量，法国原产地控制委员会给予其AOC称号，因此任何其他产区生产出的白兰地都不可以冠以“干邑”之称。

干邑由六个产区组成，分别是：大香槟区（Grande Champagne）、小香槟区（Petite Champagne）、伯德里（Borderies）、芳布瓦（Fin Bois）、邦布瓦（Bons Bois）和布瓦公社（Bois Ordinaires/Bois Communs）。值得注意的是所谓的大香槟区和小香槟区这两个地区，它们与

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白兰地的生地华夏酒报·中国酒业新闻网作者：编辑：马宁时间：2010-4-26 9:19:56 订阅邮订阅邮订阅邮订阅邮箱快箱快箱快箱快讯讯讯讯

白白白白兰兰兰兰地就是地就是地就是地就是从从从从葡萄酒中蒸葡萄酒中蒸葡萄酒中蒸葡萄酒中蒸馏馏馏馏出的酒精出的酒精出的酒精出的酒精

白兰地即从葡萄酒中蒸馏出的酒精，在全世界范围内都有生产，而最为著名的产区来自于法国两个产地，即干邑（Cognac）和雅马邑（Armagnac）。

众所周知，汽酒是一种带有气泡的葡萄酒，最为著名的产区是法国的香槟地区，法律规定只有生产在香槟地区的气泡酒才能够冠以“香槟”之称；与香槟类似的是所谓的“干邑”和“雅玛邑”，只有分别生产于这两个区域，并且严格按照地区的法律规定所生产出的白兰地才能够冠以这两个名称。

干邑产区紧靠著名红葡萄酒故乡波尔多的北部，由于靠近海洋和河流，水运非常方便，当时在这个产区所酿造出的葡萄酒，由于酸度太高而质量不太令人满意，可当时法国对于酒水的税款按照体积来计算，这对于利润本来就不高的干邑地区来说，明显就是一个赔本的生意，在这样的情况下，有人开始将葡萄酒进行蒸馏和浓缩来降低税款，等用橡木桶运送到目的地后再进行勾兑，进行贩卖。

后来的一系列战争迫使从业者不得不暂停这项业务，所有蒸馏出的酒液只好先保存在橡木桶中，战争结束后，酒商们迫不及待地重新开始葡萄酒的贩卖业务，在拿出蒸馏的酒液时，他们发现，在经过长时间橡木桶储藏后的葡萄酒蒸馏液口感变得非常柔和，拥有美好的橡木桶香气和葡萄酒香气，色泽也因为橡木桶的储藏而显得典雅高贵，就在这样的巧合之下，诞生了日后被人们称为“生命之水（eau de vie）”的白兰地。

命运总是喜欢和人开玩笑，本来是劣质葡萄酒的产地的干邑，作为白兰地的诞生之地而一举成名，为了保护该产地白兰地的声誉和质量，法国原产地控制委员会给予其AOC称号，因此任何其他产区生产出的白兰地都不可以冠以“干邑”之称。

干邑由六个产区组成，分别是：大香槟区（Grande Champagne）、小香槟区（Petite Champagne）、伯德里（Borderies）、芳布瓦（Fin Bois）、邦布瓦（Bons Bois）和布瓦公社（Bois Ordinaires/Bois Communs）。值得注意的是所谓的大香槟区和小香槟区这两个地区，它们与

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人们通常所谓的香槟产区没有丝毫关系，在干邑产区中，它们是最好的产区。

迪迪迪迪狮龙狮龙狮龙狮龙家族家族家族家族为轩为轩为轩为轩尼尼尼尼诗诗诗诗

人头马顶级干邑的原酒供应

Abel Tesseron于1905年创建了自己的干邑公司，产区被分成了两块，一块坐落在大香槟区，另一块坐落在小香槟区。为了在12世纪地下室里保存这些被他称之为“生命之水”的宝藏，他甚至起草了一个长期的法规来约束家人。这些罕见的珍宝，除了在行家之间的小圈子久负盛名，被不断争夺之外，还因为其优良的品质保证，被干邑商人抢购，去完成他们的产品。今天，由于持续不断增加的需求，公司销售的更多干邑产品冠以Tesseron的名字，也就是我们所说的“迪狮龙”。 ALFRED TESSERON是秉承TESSERON传统的第三代传人， ALFRED TESSERON在法国长大，从他的父亲Guy Tesseron得到遗传，他天生就是创造伟大、优雅干邑的造物者，在去美国寻求事业发展之后，很快成为了一名优秀的分销商，随后回到法国，成功经营法国波尔多菩依乐村（Paulliac）名庄宝德加纳（Pontet-Canet）成为美度区（Medoc）的优秀名庄，随后继承家业。在迪狮龙范围内生产的干邑都会特别标明“lots”，这是很少使用的一个术语，正如Alfred Tesseron解释说的：“这些‘lots’，实际上采自我们甄选的迪狮龙地区出产的葡萄，然后混合，或者说是‘结合’（ Marriages），以带给人们更多的香味，结构和复杂性。”

虽然在现行的规定下无法用“年份”这个代号来表达干邑的品质好坏，但是如果迪狮龙干邑打上“lots”的字样，就可以说明这是采用最好的年份，均衡的陈年后混合而成的非常佳酿。

目前，迪狮龙干邑是世界上唯一一款被酒评家Robert Parker评为100分的干邑品牌，在品牌创建之前，迪狮龙家族是轩尼诗（Hennessy）、人头马（Remy Martin）等顶级干邑品牌的原酒from:中国葡萄酒信息网供应商，家族拥有干邑区最顶级的葡萄园，旗下所有产品均为XO等级，同时拥有干邑区最古老的地下酒窖，历史可追溯到11世纪，更为重要的是，迪狮龙是干邑区最后一批运用濒临灭绝的贵族葡萄品种酿酒的酒庄，这在干邑产区是非常少见的。

生生生生产产产产一一一一瓶瓶瓶瓶干邑需要十干邑需要十干邑需要十干邑需要十瓶瓶瓶瓶葡萄酒葡萄酒葡萄酒葡萄酒

干邑地区的生产季节开始于十一月，通常情况下一直会持续到来年的三月，必须经过两次蒸馏，而且采用铜制的夏伦特蒸馏器（Copper Charentais Pot Still）进行蒸馏，蒸馏器由传统的炭火进行直火加热。通常生产一瓶干邑需要十瓶葡萄酒，所以将其称为“生命之水”一点也不为过。

所蒸馏出的酒液在橡木桶中至少储存两年，但是几乎所有的生产者都会延长储存时间，在储存过程中，酒精的含量将会降低至60%左右，同时色泽与口感都会变得柔和，并吸收橡木的香气和颜色。

在进行装运之前，还要对几个年份的酒液进行混合，同时加入蒸馏水将酒精度降低至40%左右，通过添加焦糖改变酒液的色泽。每一个干邑生产者都有一位经验丰富的首席技术顾问，在每年的调配中，他们扮演着至关重要的角色，由于各个年份的气候特点不同，所采用的原料之间有很大的差异，因此酿造和蒸馏出的产品也不尽相同，为了保持自己品牌口感和特点的一致性，技术顾问需要做大量繁重的工作，来确定各个年份的酒液在最终产品中所占有的比例。

在干邑地区，法规管理部门对干邑最初六年储藏期限有严格的规定，但是绝大多数厂商的储藏时间要长于所规定的年限。

以下是常在酒以下是常在酒以下是常在酒以下是常在酒标标标标中出中出中出中出现现现现的的的的陈陈陈陈年年年年标标标标志：志：志：志：

***或VS：经过2年的陈酿，即Compte 2；

VSOP：经过4年的陈酿，即Compte 4；

XO：经过6年的陈酿，即Compte 6

1.迪狮龙90卓越XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No.90 XO SELECTION

年龄至少为10岁，由90年代的酒液混合调配而成，由来自于三个优质产区的葡萄混酿，是初尝干邑的人士的最佳选择，风格亲切活泼。

2.迪狮龙76经典XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No.76 XO TRADITION

以76年产的白兰地，混合了70年代的酒液而成，由单一的白玉柠（Ugni Blanc）葡萄酿造，是权威杂志《葡萄酒爱好者》极力推荐的酒品。

3.迪狮龙65激情XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No.65 XO Emotion Decanter

由65年前后的酒液混合而成，全部的葡萄原料来自于最精华的产区——大香槟区，世界级的伺

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酒师对该酒赞誉有加。

4.迪狮龙53完美XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No.53 XO PERFECTION

以53年产的白兰地，混合了50年代的酒液而成，产自大香槟区的精华酒液，被两代传人孕育完成，是一款被权威酒评家评为98分的干邑。

5.迪狮龙29至尊XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No 29 XO ECEPTION

是世界上唯一一款被酒评家罗拔派克（Robert Parker）评为满分的干邑，采用来自大香槟区顶级葡萄田的硕果，以1929年蒸馏而来的白兰地为基酒，混合了1929年前后所得的几款家族最古老珍稀的库藏酒液勾兑而成。

6.迪狮龙百年珍藏XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No.100 XO Paradis

是与迪狮龙品牌同龄的珍品，由创始人挑选出族人心目中最完美的白兰地的原液，穿越时光被第三代人装瓶，在迪狮龙家族只留存200瓶，非常珍贵，其香气极端复杂，蕴涵了高超的干邑调配艺术。

7.迪狮龙传世典藏XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Extreme XO

由濒临灭绝的贵族葡萄品种酿造而成，有着几欲失传的味道，由创始人亲自挑选出88款家族最优珍藏勾兑而成，陈年的地窖源自11世纪的修道院，用于培养干邑的橡木桶也有几百年历史。

来源：北京青年报

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干邑白干邑白干邑白干邑白兰兰兰兰地的出生地地的出生地地的出生地地的出生地((((图图图图))))

新闻来源：新华网更新时间：2010-4-23 14:48:53 【字体：小大】

白兰地就是从葡萄酒中蒸馏出的酒精

白兰地即从葡萄酒中蒸馏出的酒精，在全世界范围内都有生产，而最为著名的产区

来自于法国两个产地，即干邑（Cognac）和雅马邑（Armagnac）。

众所周知，汽酒是一种带有气泡的葡萄酒，最为著名的产区是法国的香槟地区，法

律规定只有生产在香槟地区的气泡酒才能够冠以“香槟”之称；与香槟类似的是所谓的

“干邑”和“雅玛邑”，只有分别生产于这两个区域，并且严格按照地区的法律规定所生产

出的白兰地才能够冠以这两个名称。

干邑产区紧靠著名红葡萄酒故乡波尔多的北部，由于靠近海洋和河流，水运非常方

便，当时在这个产区所酿造出的葡萄酒，由于酸度太高而质量不太令人满意，可当时

法国对于酒水的税款按照体积来计算，这对于利润本来就不高的干邑地区来说，明显

就是一个赔本的生意，在这样的情况下，有人开始将葡萄酒进行蒸馏和浓缩来降低税

款，等用橡木桶运送到目的地后再进行勾兑，进行贩卖。

后来的一系列战争迫使从业者不得不暂停这项业务，所有蒸馏出的酒液只好先保存

在橡木桶中，战争结束后，酒商们迫不及待地重新开始葡萄酒的贩卖业务，在拿出蒸

馏的酒液时，他们发现，在经过长时间橡木桶储藏后的葡萄酒蒸馏液口感变得非常柔

和，拥有美好的橡木桶香气和葡萄酒香气，色泽也因为橡木桶的储藏而显得典雅高

贵，就在这样的巧合之下，诞生了日后被人们称为“生命之水（eau de vie）”的白兰

地。

命运总是喜欢和人开玩笑，本来是劣质葡萄酒的产地的干邑，作为白兰地的诞生之

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地而一举成名，为了保护该产地白兰地的声誉和质量，法国原产地控制委员会给予其

AOC称号，因此任何其他产区生产出的白兰地都不可以冠以“干邑”之称。

干邑由六个产区组成，分别是：大香槟区（Grande Champagne）、小香槟区

（Petite Champagne）、伯德里（Borderies）、芳布瓦（Fin Bois）、邦布瓦（Bons

Bois）和布瓦公社（Bois Ordinaires/Bois Communs）。值得注意的是所谓的大香槟区

和小香槟区这两个地区，它们与人们通常所谓的香槟产区没有丝毫关系，在干邑产区

中，它们是最好的产区。

迪狮龙家族为轩尼诗

人头马顶级干邑的原酒供应

Abel Tesseron于1905年创建了自己的干邑公司，产区被分成了两块，一块坐落在大

香槟区，另一块坐落在小香槟区。为了在12世纪地下室里保存这些被他称之为“生命

之水”的宝藏，他甚至起草了一个长期的法规来约束家人。这些罕见的珍宝，除了在

行家之间的小圈子久负盛名，被不断争夺之外，还因为其优良的品质保证，被干邑商

人抢购，去完成他们的产品。今天，由于持续不断增加的需求，公司销售的更多干邑

产品冠以Tesseron的名字，也就是我们所说的“迪狮龙”。 ALFRED TESSERON是秉承

TESSERON传统的第三代传人， ALFRED TESSERON在法国长大，从他的父亲Guy

Tesseron得到遗传，他天生就是创造伟大、优雅干邑的造物者，在去美国寻求事业发

展之后，很快成为了一名优秀的分销商，随后回到法国，成功经营法国波尔多菩依乐

村（Paulliac）名庄宝德加纳（Pontet-Canet）成为美度区（Medoc）的优秀名庄，随

后继承家业。在迪狮龙范围内生产的干邑都会特别标明“lots”，这是很少使用的一个术

语，正如Alfred Tesseron解释说的：“这些‘lots’，实际上采自我们甄选的迪狮龙地区出

产的葡萄，然后混合，或者说是‘结合’（ Marriages），以带给人们更多的香味，结构

和复杂性。”

虽然在现行的规定下无法用“年份”这个代号来表达干邑的品质好坏，但是如果迪狮龙

干邑打上“lots”的字样，就可以说明这是采用最好的年份，均衡的陈年后混合而成的非

常佳酿。

目前，迪狮龙干邑是世界上唯一一款被酒评家Robert Parker评为100分的干邑品

牌，在品牌创建之前，迪狮龙家族是轩尼诗（Hennessy）、人头马（Remy Martin）

等顶级干邑品牌的原酒供应商，家族拥有干邑区最顶级的葡萄园，旗下所有产品均为

XO等级，同时拥有干邑区最古老的地下酒窖，历史可追溯到11世纪，更为重要的是，

迪狮龙是干邑区最后一批运用濒临灭绝的贵族葡萄品种酿酒的酒庄，这在干邑产区是

非常少见的。

生产一瓶干邑需要十瓶葡萄酒

干邑地区的生产季节开始于十一月，通常情况下一直会持续到来年的三月，必须经

过两次蒸馏，而且采用铜制的夏伦特蒸馏器（Copper Charentais Pot Still）进行蒸

馏，蒸馏器由传统的炭火进行直火加热。通常生产一瓶干邑需要十瓶葡萄酒，所以将

其称为“生命之水”一点也不为过。

所蒸馏出的酒液在橡木桶中至少储存两年，但是几乎所有的生产者都会延长储存时

间，在储存过程中，酒精的含量将会降低至60%左右，同时色泽与口感都会变得柔

和，并吸收橡木的香气和颜色。

在进行装运之前，还要对几个年份的酒液进行混合，同时加入蒸馏水将酒精度降低

至40%左右，通过添加焦糖改变酒液的色泽。每一个干邑生产者都有一位经验丰富的

首席技术顾问，在每年的调配中，他们扮演着至关重要的角色，由于各个年份的气候

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194

特点不同，所采用的原料之间有很大的差异，因此酿造和蒸馏出的产品也不尽相同，

为了保持自己品牌口感和特点的一致性，技术顾问需要做大量繁重的工作，来确定各

个年份的酒液在最终产品中所占有的比例。

在干邑地区，法规管理部门对干邑最初六年储藏期限有严格的规定，但是绝大多数

厂商的储藏时间要长于所规定的年限。

以下是常在酒标中出现的陈年标志：

***或VS：经过2年的陈酿，即Compte 2；

VSOP：经过4年的陈酿，即Compte 4；

XO：经过6年的陈酿，即Compte 6

1.迪狮龙90卓越XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No.90 XO SELECTION

年龄至少为10岁，由90年代的酒液混合调配而成，由来自于三个优质产区的葡萄混

酿，是初尝干邑的人士的最佳选择，风格亲切活泼。

2.迪狮龙76经典XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No.76 XO TRADITION

以76年产的白兰地，混合了70年代的酒液而成，由单一的白玉柠（Ugni Blanc）葡

萄酿造，是权威杂志《葡萄酒爱好者》极力推荐的酒品。

3.迪狮龙65激情XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No.65 XO Emotion Decanter

由65年前后的酒液混合而成，全部的葡萄原料来自于最精华的产区——大香槟区，

世界级的伺酒师对该酒赞誉有加。

4.迪狮龙53完美XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No.53 XO PERFECTION

以53年产的白兰地，混合了50年代的酒液而成，产自大香槟区的精华酒液，被两代

传人孕育完成，是一款被权威酒评家评为98分的干邑。

5.迪狮龙29至尊XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No 29 XO ECEPTION

是世界上唯一一款被酒评家罗拔派克（Robert Parker）评为满分的干邑，采用来自

大香槟区顶级葡萄田的硕果，以1929年蒸馏而来的白兰地为基酒，混合了1929年前后

所得的几款家族最古老珍稀的库藏酒液勾兑而成。

6.迪狮龙百年珍藏XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Lot No.100 XO Paradis

是与迪狮龙品牌同龄的珍品，由创始人挑选出族人心目中最完美的白兰地的原液，

穿越时光被第三代人装瓶，在迪狮龙家族只留存200瓶，非常珍贵，其香气极端复杂，

蕴涵了高超的干邑调配艺术。

7.迪狮龙传世典藏XO干邑白兰地Cognac Tesseron Extreme XO

由濒临灭绝的贵族葡萄品种酿造而成，有着几欲失传的味道，由创始人亲自挑选出

88款家族最优珍藏勾兑而成，陈年的地窖源自11世纪的修道院，用于培养干邑的橡木

桶也有几百年历史。

编辑：小唐

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Les Bordelais prennent goût au cognacUne enseigne entièrement consacrée au cognac existe depuis trois mois à Bordeaux. Le succès semble au rendez-vous.

Stéphane MORÉALE

Ouvrir un temple du cognac au coeur de Bordeaux était audacieux. Non que la ville, adoratrice du cabernet et du merlot, soit une terre impossible à évangéliser pour un apôtre du Cognaçais: «Ils étaient demandeurs», précise Pablo Ferrand, le missionnaire natif de La Nérolle près de Segonzac. Mais les chapelles de toute obédience ne manquent pas dans la cité du dieu Bacchus, surtout dans le quartier choisi, près des allées de Tourny.

Le culte du cognac semble par ailleurs délaissé par les plus jeunes fidèles. Une image vieillotte trompeuse, mais de nature à ébranler les évangélistes les plus déterminés. D'ailleurs, le Charentais a longtemps réfléchi avant de se lancer: «Ça faisait quatre ans qu'on cherchait, à Lyon, Annecy, Genève...»

Touristes et Bordelais

convertis

Plus de trois mois après l'ouverture de la mission bordelaise, Pablo Ferrand est récompensé de son audace. «Chaque mois, je double le nombre de mes clients», assure le jeune homme. Son objectif de dix convertis par jour «est en passe d'être atteint». Les touristes, mais aussi, surprise, les Bordelais osent pousser la porte de l'enseigne Cognac Only de la rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau.

Il faut avouer que les flacons ambrés, disposés en arc de cercle sur des étagères au design minimaliste mais classe, attirent le regard de loin depuis la rue. Et puis il paraît que, chez les touristes étrangers, des Russes aux Sud-Américains en passant par les Chinois, le mot cognac induit un état de transe. «C'est l'alcool de tous les superlatifs à l'étranger, confie Pablo Ferrand, qui l'a constaté au fil de ses cinq ans d'expérience comme vendeur chez Nicolas à Paris. Quand il vient en France, un étranger achète toujours une bouteille de bordeaux, une de bourgogne et une de cognac! D'où l'intérêt d'être ici et de capter cette clientèle qui n'a pas le temps de venir jusqu'en Cognaçais.»

«J'aime faire découvrir

le produit»

Les producteurs locaux l'ont bien compris. Entre La Rochelle et Bordeaux, plus de 400 références figurent dans le catalogue de Cognac Only. Des plus illustres (et chères!) comme la cuvée Louis XIII de Rémy Martin en flacon de baccarat à 1 700 euros, aux plus confidentielles à l'instar d'un cognac Pierre de Segonzac.

Les premiers prix, autour de 22 euros, permettent une découverte du produit à moindre frais. Surtout que Pablo Ferrand se fait un plaisir de mener ses visiteurs sur les chemins de l'illumination au travers de dégustations conviviales. «C'est mon vrai plaisir quand les gens prennent le temps de déguster. J'aime faire découvrir le produit, créer un lien avec mon visiteur.»

D'autant que les pratiques se démocratisent, comme le montre l'engouement pour l'Hpnotiq, liqueur à base de cognac, vodka et fruits exotiques très en vogue dans les clubs. «Le cognac en cocktail en apéro? Pourquoi pas, estime Pablo Ferrand l'oecuménique. C'est un moyen de le sortir de son côté vieillot! Il ne faut pas enfermer un produit.» Mais la tolérance a ses limites. «Je serais quand même fâché si vous faisiez ça avec du Tesseron!»

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Dear Wine Lover,

As we roll from summer to winter this month's newsletter heralds a well-timed tasting on 29th November of wines for drinking over the Christmas holidays chance to taste, select and have delivered all in good time and avoid the late rush. Look out too for Germanophile David Jones's selected 2009 Rieslings, wines with superb potential and which always reward.

We hope to see you on the 29th November.

With our many thanks,

BERRYS' CHRISTMAS PORTFOLIO TASTING

Join us on Monday 29tha Cellar Plan festive tastingtop wines perfect for Christmas. Therehost of events and guests, including Jasper Morris MW’s book signing and Cognactasting. Tickets are just

INSIDE BURGUNDY, BY JASPER MORRIS MW

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Jasper Morris MW’s latest book, Inside Burgundy, offers unrivalled insights into just why this small slice of France yields the world’s finest wines. You can pre-register to buy online or get a signed copy at the Christmas tasting.

BORDEAUX 2010 VINTAGE REPORT

Having returned from a recenttop châteaux in Bordeaux, Max Lalondrellehis preliminary report on what we can expect from the Bordeaux 2010 vintage. read his report.

BEFORE IT GOES UP

This month’s selection for this ‘under-priced and terrific value’ slot is 2006 Ch. Léoville Poyferré. Arguably the second best wine in St Julien, with rich mocha flavours that complement the intoxicating black fruit. Cellar until 2015-2035.

WINES FROM THE HOLY ROMAN EMPIRE

David Jones reports the bestlast month’s Cellar Plan tasting of winesAustria and Germany. stood out from the crowd

BEAT THE VAT INCREASE

Pay 2.5% less tax by avoiding January’s VAT rise – let your Plan Manager know if you’d like to withdraw any wines from bond before the end of November, and we’ll ensure the transaction is processed before the extra VAT becomes payable.

XO & BEYOND

The Tesserons are wellof the Château Pontetbut you may not knowdelighted that Melanie Tesseron willour Christmas Tastingabout Cognac Tesseron

Page 2 sur 3Latest Cellar Plan Newsletter

28/10/2010http://www.bbr.com/cellar-plan/newsletter-3651.lml

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The Tesseron Family has long been, and still is, one of the finest exponents of luxury, very old, aged Cognacs (Cognac Tesseron's range is a exclusively X.O). Their vineyards are in the Cognac region of Grand Champagne, and were purchased in the 19th century by Abel Tesseron, whose grandsons, Alfred and Gérard, are managing today. Melanie Tesseron represents the fourth generation of the family and is involved in the Marketing side of the business.

The Tesserons are also well-known by wine-lovers as the proprietors of the Bordeaux châteaux Pontet Canet and Lafon Rochet.

While most of the Cognac’s vineyards are dominated by Ugni Blanc, the Tesserons have maintained planting of the two other historic varietals: Folle Blanche, that imparts finesse, and Collombard for strength and complexity of flavours.

The three grapes are harvested, vinified and distilled separately and then blended and left to mature over many years in Tesseron’s 13th century cellars at Chateauneuf-sur-Charante.

The Tesseron’s range is specifically labelled as ‘lots’, a term rarely used in Charente. As Alfred Tesseron explains: “These ‘lots’ are in fact blends or perhaps more precisely marriages, taken from reserve stocks in order to favour more aromas, structure and complexity”.

Although it is not possible to use the term ‘vintages’ with regards to Cognac under current regulations, these ‘lots’ reflect an average age of cognac blends taken from the very best years in cognac production.

The Tesseron "Lots” range consists of Cognac Tesseron Lot N° 76 XO Tradition , Cognac Tesseron Lot N° 53 XO Perfection , and the etheral Cognac Tesseron Lot N° 29 XO Exception .

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Ready, but will keep, 40% alc.

Cognac Tesseron Lot N° 90 XO Selection displays an e specially attractive combination of vigour and complexity. Made from the finest terroirs in Cognac (Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Petite Champagne and Fins Bois) Lot n°90’ s unique character comes from long ageing in ... MORE

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Cognac Tesseron LOT N° 76 XO Tradition is an except ional blend of reserve stocks of Grande Champagne Cognac, matured to perfection in old casks. Lot n°76 immediately establishes its quality on the nose, which exhibits a wealth of caramelised peaches, almond and candied fruit aromas. ... MORE

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Cognac Tesseron LOT N°29 Exception is the rare jewel of the Tesseron collection of Cognacs. A unique blend of legendary Grande Champagne Cognacs, the cream of the cream of our oldest and rarest stocks, lovingly aged for at least three generations. Balancing power and finesse, Cognac ... MORE

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VINTAGE WINE REGION # Cs PRICE SIZE

Cognac Tesseron Lot 90 Selection

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70cl £50.00

12 x 70cl

Cognac Tesseron Lot 76 Tradition

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70cl £71.50

12 x 70cl

Cognac Tesseron Lot 29 Gift Box

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70cl £275.00

12 x 70cl

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Price per Bottle: £50 to £99.99 (2)£100 and up (1)

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Page 1 sur 2Buy Cognac Tesseron Wines at Berry Bros. and Rudd's online shop.

28/10/2010http://www.bbr.com/producer-1060-cognac-tesseron?utm_source=cp_newsletter&utm...

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HIDE NOTE

70cl £50.00

12 x 70cl


HIDE NOTE

70cl £71.50

12 x 70cl


HIDE NOTE

70cl £275.00

12 x 70cl


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BROWSE OUR SPIRITS


+44 (0)800 280 2440*


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HIDE NOTE

70cl £50.00

12 x 70cl


HIDE NOTE

70cl £71.50

12 x 70cl


HIDE NOTE

70cl £275.00

12 x 70cl


YOUR ACCOUNT


BROWSE OUR SPIRITS


+44 (0)800 280 2440*


Cognac Tesseron



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HIDE NOTE

70cl £50.00

12 x 70cl


HIDE NOTE

70cl £71.50

12 x 70cl


HIDE NOTE

70cl £275.00

12 x 70cl


YOUR ACCOUNT


BROWSE OUR SPIRITS


+44 (0)800 280 2440*


Cognac Tesseron



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HIDE NOTE

70cl £50.00

12 x 70cl


HIDE NOTE

70cl £71.50

12 x 70cl


HIDE NOTE

70cl £275.00

12 x 70cl


YOUR ACCOUNT


BROWSE OUR SPIRITS


+44 (0)800 280 2440*


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