Islay

Queen of The Hebrides

Benoit Bailey @RatherBeOnIslay

November 14th 2016Montréal

Caol Ila

Ardbeg

Laphroaig

Gartbeck

Kildalton Cross

American Monument

Loch Gorm

Machir Bay

Jura

Finlaggan

Loch Indaal

Loch Gruinart

RSPB Loch Gruinart

Claggan Bay

Saligo Bay

Ardnahoe

Peated Whisky

• Lightly peated: 1 – 5 ppm• Medium peated: 5 – 15 ppm• Heavily peated : 15 – 50 ppm• Super heavily peated : > 50 ppm

Peat

• Partial decomposition of organic matter in wetlands because of lack of O2 over thousand of years– Sphagnum– Low growing plants (grass, heather, etc…)

• From 10 to 50 cm below ground – Upper part: more smoke than heat– Lower part : more heat than smoke

• Composition– 92% organic : contains variable amount of cellulose,

hemicellulose, and lignins– 8% inorganic : almost ash

Why Peat is Use in Scotch Industry?

• Up until the early 1960s: Necessity– Heat needed to dry the malt in the kiln in each

distillery– Coal not readily available in remore area

• From the 1960s: To flavor the malt– Industrial scale maltings– Limited “artisanal” maltings• Balvenie, BenRiach, Bowmore, Highland Park,

Kilchoman, Laphroaig, Springbank

Bruichladdich

• Three malt specifications (Bairds Malt from Inverness)– Non peated: Bruichladdich 3-4 ppm– Heavily peated: Port Charlotte 40 ppm– Super heavily peated: Octomore varies ≥ 131 ppm• X.1: Bourbon casks• X.2: Mixed casks (duty-free)• X.3: Islay barley• 7.4: Experimental casks

Bruichladdich

Malt specifications phenol(ppm)

Finish spirit phenol(ppm)

Bruichladdich 3-4 trace

Port Charlotte 40 20-25

Octomore 2002 Futures 80.5 29.6

Octomore 2003 Futures 167 46.4

Jefford A. Peat Smoke and Spirit. Headline. 2004

Octomore.1

Bourbon(ppm)

.2 Cask Finished(ppm)

.3 Islay Barley(ppm)

.4 Virgin Oak

(ppm)

Aged(ppm)

Futures 2002 80.5

Futures 2004 167

1 131

2 140 140 Chateau Petrus

3 152

4 167 167 Château d'Yquem

5 169

6 167 167 Cognac 258

7 208 208 Rhône Syrah 169 167

7 yo Feis Ile ? Oloroso*

10 yo 1st ed 80.5

Bruichladdich 22 yo

• Released in 2012 • Distilled before the

renaissance in 2001• 46% • American oak casks • KWM $149.99 + GST

(2012 price)

Bruichladdich 22 yo Official Tasting Notes

https://www.bruichladdich.com/the-whisky/bruichladdich/the-laddie-twenty-two-year-old

Bruichladdich 22 yo Official Tasting Notes

https://www.bruichladdich.com/the-whisky/bruichladdich/the-laddie-twenty-two-year-old

Bruichladdich 22 yo Official Tasting Notes

https://www.bruichladdich.com/the-whisky/bruichladdich/the-laddie-twenty-two-year-old

Anonymous. All About Distilling. http://www.manitobabrewhub.ca/learn/all-about-distilling

Barley

Dry and store barley

Soak (steep) barley in water

Air rest

Germinate to make malt green

Kiln to specification

Malted barley

Malting complete?

Yes

No

12%

1st steep 32-35%

50 hours

Final steep 46-47%

1-2 days

5-6 days

Moisture15-20%

DurationMaltingProcess

5%

Months

Goals of Kilning

• Stop the biological activity of the green malt• Produce a dry storable (stable) product ready

to be used• Remove undesired flavour• Add flavour – Existing precursors– Peat reek (smoke)

Goals of Kilning

• Add flavour from existing precursors– Dimethyl sulphide (DMS) from thermal degradation

of S-methylmethionine– Aldehydes from oxydation of unsaturated lipids• Hexanal (green, grassy)• Trans-2-nonenal (cardboard)

• Add flavour with peat reek– Adds phenols

Lagavulin 8 yo

• Released in 2016• For 200th anniversary• 48% - colored• Re-fill American oak

casks • SAQ $100

Alfred Bernard

“From Ardbeg our route homeward lay through the beautiful village of Lagganmhouillin or Lagavulin, “the Mill in the Valley”, and no prettier or more romantic spot could have been chosen for a distillery. The make is pure Islay malt, and is principally sold in Glasgow, England and the Colonies. The make is held in high repute; we tasted some eight years old before starting, which was exceptionnaly fine.”

The Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom 1887

Lagavulin 8 yo Official Tasting Notes

https://www.malts.com/en-gb/our-whisky-collection/lagavulin/lagavulin-8-years-old/

Peat Brings Phenols…

• But not all phenols come from peat– But all phenols come from burning plants• Charring of casks (degraded wood carbohydrates –

cellulose, hemicellulose, lignins) – Smoky not peaty

• Not all phenols are smoky– Vanillin– Eugenol (clove aroma/flavor)

What is in the Peat Reek that is Important Flavourwise?

PhenolsPhenol Medicinal, antiseptic, iodine, carbolic

Guaiacol Flavour of smoke (no aroma) but also medicinal, woody

Syringol Aroma of smoke (no flavour)

o-cresol Musty, phenolic, medicinal

p-cresol Medicinal

m-cresol Medicinal, woody, leathery, phenolic

Xylenol isomers Medicinal, sweet

4-ethylguaiacol Spicy, smoky, bacon, phenolic, clove

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/magic-mayhem-whisky-phenols-matthew-fergusson-stewartBuxton, Hugues. The Science and Commerce of Whisky.Lee, Paterson, Pigott. J Inst Brewing 2001: 107; 287http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/index.html

Absorption of Peat Reek

• Malt phenols specifications obtain by varying – Intensity of smoke • Amount of peat• Time exposed to peat reek

– Springbank» Hazelburn (non-peated): 30 hours of hot air» Springbank : 6 hours of peat reek + 30 hours of hot air» Longrow: up to 48 hours of peat reek

– Laphroaig: 12-15 hours of peat reek – Bowmore: 15 hours of peat reek – Octomore: 120 hours of peat reek in saladin box no hot air

Absorption of Peat Reek

• Malt phenols specifications obtain by varying – Rate of malt drying• Uptake smoke flavours in the range of 20-50% moisture

– Maximum 20-30%• Two methods

– Peat then dry– Peat and dry

Laphroaig Lore

• Released in 2016• Permanent addition to the

range:– “The richest of the rich”

• 48% • 7-21 yo American and

European oak casks• SAQ $200

http://www.laphroaig.com/lore/

Tasting Notes

http://www.laphroaig.com/lore/The-Taste.aspx

Peat Terroir

• Not all peat is created equal– Varies in quality and composition depending• Climate• Vegetation

– Burnt sphagnum releases more simple phenols– Burnt wood releases more syringol and guaiacol derivatives

• Bog type (rainfall or ground water)• Cutting depth

– Laphroaig Cairdeas 2015• 100% made from malt from own kiln not mixed with PE• More cresol and 4-ethyl-guiacol in Laphroaig malt

Peat Terroir

Relative Abundances of Pyrolysis Products

Islay St. Fergus Orkney Tomintoul

Carbohydrate derivatives (%) 26.6 23.5 43.1 50.5Guaiacyl (%) 20.6 23.6 14.3 11.1Syringyl (%) 7.8 14.7 4.2 3.3

Phenols (%) 14.6 12.8 12.3 11.6

Nitrogen compounds (%) 3.2 2.5 2.8 1.2

Lignin/phenols 2.0 3.0 1.5 1.25

Syringyl/Guaiacyl 0.38 0.62 0.29 0.30

Harrison and Priest. J Agric Food Chem 2009; 57: 2385-2391

Peat Terroir

• Even peat from Islay varies– Climatic bog (blanket bog) - 10% of Scotland• More sphagnum moss, less woody vegetation

– Richer in phenols and aromatics– Poorer in carbohydrates, lignin and nitrogen

Castle Hill (Port Ellen)– Local bog (valley/bassin bog) - 1% of Scotland• More sedges and grass

– Richer in lignin-derivatives and carbohydrates Gartbreck moss (Bowmore) Glenmachrie moss (Laphroaig)

SpeysideTomintoul

AberdeenshireSt Fergus

OrkneyHobbister Hill

IslayCastle Hill

IslayGlenmachrie

IslayGartbeck

Harrison B et al. J Inst Brew 2006; 112; 4; 333-339

Islay: Glenmachrie moss (bassin/valley bog)

Islay: Gartbeck moss (bassin/valley bog)

Islay: Castlehill (blanket bog)

Orkney: Hobbister Hill (blanket bog)

Aberdeenshire: St Fergus (bassin bog)

Speyside: Tomintoul (bassin bog)

Harrison B et al. J Inst Brew 2006; 112; 4 ; 333-339

CHGM

GA

Kilchoman Sanaig

• Released in 2015 in French market

• 2016: permanent addition to the range

• 46% • 75% Oloroso/25%

Bourbon casks• SAQ $X

Sanaig, a small rocky inlet North West of the distillery is the name given to this continuously available release. Sanaig has a predominantly sherry cask influence owing to the significant time spent in oloroso sherry Hogsheads. These aged oloroso casks contribute a drastically transformed depth of colour and character compared to the mostly Bourbon cask matured Machir Bay. “A beautiful marriage of bourbon and sherry maturation balanced with classic Islay peat smoke and light citrus sweetness”. Anthony Wills, Founder

http://kilchomandistillery.com/our-single-malt-whisky

Tasting Notes

• Nose: Soft cooked fruits with caramel and vanilla

• Palate: Toffee, peat smoke and citrus lingering sweetness

• Finish: A lovely balance of peat smoke, fruit and sweetness

http://impexbev.com/kilchoman-distillery/

Distillery (Malting) Malt phenol spec(ppm by colorometry)

Middle cut ABV(%)

New make phenol(ppm by HPLC)

Bunnahabhain (90% Simpsons) 3 - 4 72 - 64 Trace

Bunnahabhain (10% PE) 35 72 – 61.5 Unknown

Bruichladdich (Bairds) 3 - 4 71 - 64 Trace

Port Charlotte (Bairds) 40 71 - 64 20 - 25

Octomore 2003 (Bairds) 129 71 - 64 46.4

Bowmore (75% Simpsons) 25 74 - 61.5 8 - 10

Bowmore ( 25% Bowmore) 25 74 - 61.5 8 – 10

Caol Ila (PE) 34 - 38 75 - 65 12 - 13

Lagavulin (PE) 34 - 38 72 - 59 16 - 18

Laphroaig ( 85% PE) 40 - 45 72 - 60.5 25

Laphroaig (15% Laphroaig) 55 72 - 60.5 Unknown

Ardbeg (PE) 55 73 - 62.5 24 - 26

Kilchoman (70% PE) 55 75 - 65.5 Unknown

Kilchoman (30% Kilchoman) 15 - 25 75 - 65.5 Unknown

Ardbeg Dark Cove

• Released in 2016• Committee release 55% vs

Ardbeg Day release 46.5%– The darkest Ardbeg ever…

• Dark sherry casks…• SAQ $180

Tasting Notes

https://www.ardbeg.com/whisky/limited-editions/dark-cove-limited

Impact of Distillation on Peat Levels

Fore

shot

s

Middle cut

Feints

Fore

shot

s

Middle cut

Feints

Fore

shot

s

Middle cut

Feints

More Peaty New Make?

Fore

shot

s

Middle cut

Feints

More Peaty New Make?

Fore

shot

s

Middle cut

Feints

More Peaty New Make?

Fore

shot

s

Middle cut

Feints

More Peaty New Make?

Fore

shot

s

Middle cut

Feints

More Peaty New Make

Fore

shot

s

Middle cut

Feints

More Peaty New Make

Distillery (Malting) Malt phenol spec(ppm by colorometry)

Middle cut ABV(%)

New make phenol(ppm by HPLC)

Bunnahabhain (90% Simpsons) 3 - 4 72 - 64 Trace

Bunnahabhain (10% PE) 35 72 – 61.5 Unknown

Bruichladdich (Bairds) 3 - 4 71 - 64 Trace

Port Charlotte (Bairds) 40 71 - 64 20 - 25

Octomore 2003 (Bairds) 129 71 - 64 46.4

Bowmore (75% Simpsons) 25 74 - 61.5 8 - 10

Bowmore ( 25% Bowmore) 25 74 - 61.5 8 – 10

Caol Ila (PE) 34 - 38 75 - 65 12 - 13

Lagavulin (PE) 34 - 38 72 - 59 16 - 18

Laphroaig ( 85% PE) 40 - 45 72 - 60.5 25

Laphroaig (15% Laphroaig) 55 72 - 60.5 Unknown

Ardbeg (PE) 55 73 - 62.5 24 - 26

Kilchoman (70% PE) 55 75 - 65.5 Unknown

Kilchoman (30% Kilchoman) 15 - 25 75 - 65.5 Unknown

Impact of Maturation on Peat Levels

• Phenols decrease during maturation– Mecanism?

• But synergetic nature of oak derived compounds (guaiacol, vanillin, etc…) can enhance the peaty flavors

Impact of Maturation on Peat Levels

New Make 10 yo 15 yo 30 yo0

5

10

15

20

25

30

PPM

Jefford A. Peat Smoke and Spirit. Headline. 2004

Bowmore Devil’s Casks III

• Third and final edition• Released in 2015• 56.7%• Double the Devil: First Fill

Pedro Ximenez and oloroso sherry casks

• NAS• SAQ $110

Tasting Notes• Nose: Breathe in a wave of rich, dark, exotic fruits, including

sultanas, mangos and raisins, fused with earthy angelica root and treacle toffee.

• Palate: Give in to temptation and sip the smooth, rounded taste of dates, chocolate fudge and salted treacle, warmed by orange-laced Aruba coffee.

• Finish: Finally, savour the powerful, long- -lasting finish of smoked fruitcake, blood orange and sea salt. Devilishly rewarding and a great addition to any whisky collection, this limited-edition release not only tells a tale, it spells the end.

Bowmore tasting notes

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