Rapport de veille_salon_texworld_paris_2010

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RAPPORT DE VEILLE SALON

13-16 September 2010 Paris, Le Bourget

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© VIEDOC - Pour tout renseignement : [email protected]

SUMMARY

Abstract ................................................................................................................................................... 4 Introduction ............................................................................................................................................. 5 Fabrics China Creation pavilion ............................................................................................................... 6 Sustainable textiles .................................................................................................................................. 7 Technical textiles ................................................................................................................................... 11 Designers & Fashion .............................................................................................................................. 14 Conclusion ............................................................................................................................................. 15 About Veille Salon / A propos de Veille Salon ....................................................................................... 16 Viedoc: Presentation ............................................................................................................................. 17

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DISCLAIMER Ce rapport a été élaboré à partir des interviews réalisées par nos soins auprès des exposants présents sur l’événement incriminé, de la collecte d’information et de son analyse lors des conférences qui s’y sont tenues et de la compilation des résultats de recherches issus d’une veille internet post-événement. Ainsi, les données qui figurent dans ce rapport ont strictement valeur d’information. Bien que l’objectif soit de diffuser des informations actualisées et exactes, VEILLE SALON ne peut pas garantir le résultat et tout préjudice qui pourrait résulter de l’utilisation de ces informations ne pourra lui en être imputé. L’utilisation ou la reproduction de tout ou partie de ce document est interdite sans l’accord écrit préalable de VEILLE SALON. Pour obtenir l’intégralité des conditions d’utilisation de ce rapport, merci de nous contacter.

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ABSTRACT

At Texworld Paris 2010 held between 13 and 16 September at Le Bourget, the vast majority of exhibitors came from Asia. Chinese suppliers were by far the most represented, and a Chinese pavilion with 17 selected companies was moreover organized. Companies supplying sustainable textiles were put forward and organized around eco-friendly raw materials, eco-friendly processes and social aspects. Texworld offers a vast variety of textiles including wool, cotton, linen, polyester, nylon and spandex fabrics in many different quality,colors and patterns. Amongst companies exhibiting at Texworld Paris 2010 in the “technical textiles” area, one could find cool fabrics, breathable fabrics but also bamboo charcoal added, germanium alloy added and jade mineral added fibers together with scented fabrics. For this latest edition, organizers invited fashion school Esmod and l’Académie Internationale de Coupe de Paris, showing their will to make Texworld an all together international textile, apparel and fashion fair.

Key words : fabric, textile, fiber, apparel, garment, designer, cloth, fashion, Fabrics China Creation Pavilion, sustainable, eco-friendly, technical, scented, wool, cotton, hemp, silk, linen, polyester, spandex, recycled, color changing, cool, breathable, bamboo charcoal, jade, germanium

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INTRODUCTION

Organized by Messe Frankfurt, this biennal event is a place where, on 33,330 m2 and during four days, textile manufacturers meet with their clients: clothing manufacturers, textile and garment retailers and wholesalers, designers… With more than 800 exhibitors, this fair has become a business platform for the textile and clothing industry. The vast majority of exhibitors at Texworld Paris 2010 came from Asia. China, Taiwan, South Korea, India, Pakistan and Turkey being the countries by far the most represented. Other manufacturers came mainly from other Asian countries including Japan, Indonesia and Thailand. A few came from the middle East (Egypt, Lebanon). As for the very few European representatives, they came from Italy, Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands. As in many other areas, sustainability is an issue for the textile industry and customers now await products which are environmentally friendly. More and more textile companies now highlight the fact that their raw materials and/or processes are environmentally friendly. Whereas recycled fibres were in the past associated with poor quality and finish, they are now a selling point, and many manufacturers have them in their porfolio. Some innovative functional fabrics containing “natural” additives are also emerging. Concerning technical textiles, besides the breathable, waterproof and windproof fabrics, some new features have appeared such as temperature-sensitive textiles and scented fabrics. This textile fair is evolving as besides traditional textile suppliers one could also find in this 27thTexworld edition companies proposing ready-to-wear apparels, accessories and garments. Texworld Paris 2010 also made room for creation with a corner dedicated to fabric material and color trends, and an exhibition of creations from Esmod fashion school students.

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FABRICS CHINA CREATION PAVILION

China is the biggest fabric and apparel supplier to western companies.

At Texworld and for the third time round, Messe Frankfurt, the organizer, invited China Textile Information Center. Seventeen Chinese suppliers were selected and gathered in the form of a pavilion which was divided into two areas: the trend forum and the exhibitors’ area. For the fifth time round, Texworld hosted the CTAF – China Textile and Apparel Trade Fair – which groups together around a hundred companies specialising in clothing production. Their aim is to develop a range of high-end products which will meet the requirements of Western markets in terms of quality and style. These manufacturers came from the regions of Beijing, Jiangsu, JueXi or Zhejiang and offered fine embroidery, supple silks or knits.

The number of exhibitors at CTAF having almost doubled in size for the next Texworld show bears witness to intentions to strengthen the economic and professional ties between China and the European markets. “Our participation at Texworld is an opportunity to forge ties and to create long-term collaboration between our exhibitors and clients in the West. We offer endless ranges of very different products that meet the needs firms may have, and we set up whatever is necessary to best respond to our clients’ demands for quality and prompt delivery”, explained Zhang Tao, from the Chamber of Commerce for the Chinese Textile Industry.

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SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES

Just like in many other areas, customers now want environmentally-friendly fabrics. Various kinds of organic and sustainable textiles are readily available now. Some like recycled polyester or Lyocell are relatively new, others like hemp or organic cotton have been on the market for many years already. Leading experts from textile organisations and enterprises discussed the question of how sustainable textiles have developed in the market, their future market share and business potential during a conference. Speakers from the Soil Association, Fairtrade Labelling Organisations, Lenzing and Organic Exchange outlined to textile manufacturers and buyers’ the various kinds of organic and sustainable textiles that are readily available, potential future market share and their commercial impact. In addition, approximately 100 suppliers of organic cotton and linen,hemp, recycled material or other sustainable textiles were present. Texworld exhibitors are now starting to bring their eco offers towards the front of their booths instead of hiding them away at the back as buyer interest continues to grow. Organic material and fairtrade products were most prominent at the last edition of Texworld. Suppliers fromTurkey, India, Pakistan, Taiwan and other countries presented certified organic cotton, selected natural fibres, recycled polyester and other eco-friendly fibres such as Tencel, Modal, Sonora. “The number of textile mills offering eco-textiles at Texworld-Paris has grown by 25%, as visitors continue to demand new fabrics that have a reduced impact on the environment”, said John Mowbray from EcoTextile News. Around 122 fabric mills from a total of around 800 exhibitors were offering certified eco-textiles as part of their collections, which equates to a significant 15% of the total number of Asian textile producers at the show. Some exhibitors are even switching their complete collections over to sustainable fabrics, according to HL Ding, the President of China-based Hemp Fortex Industries, which supplies organic linen, recycled polyester, recycled and organic cotton and hemp fabrics. Recycled denim fabrics were seen in the ‘Eco-fabric’ trend area of the show including light-weight, soft with up to 30% recycled cotton content. These denims have a uniform, clean fabric surface despite the inclusion of shorter staple length recycle fibres, and are similar in weight and appearance to the 100% organic cotton denims. Chinese company Rih Jane Fibre is using 45% recycled Coolmax, and there is a noticeable increase in the number of collections using Lenzing’s Tencel with suppliers heavily promoting its environmental benefits. GOTS companies Bernd Mueller, project director at Messe Frankfurt, the organiser of Texworld said: “We have 51 exhibitors at Texworld who now have the GOTS (Global Organic Textile) standard for organic textiles – this is up from 30 companies this time last year”. Mueller noted that there were many new developments at the growing eco-trend forum: “in addition to the traditional organic fabrics we see a noticeable increase in the breadth of the colour palette where bright reds and deep blues

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compliment the more neutral shades often associated with organic.” Two of India’s largest cotton fabric producers JCT and Vardhmann said they were now going through the stringent EU Eco-Label certification process. This is a considerable challenge given the large volumes that these two companies produce. At Texworl Paris 2010, Eco-friendly companies were labeled with grey, green blue or brown leaves according to the following code.

Lenzing

Address : Werkstraße 2 4860 Lenzing Austria Phone.: +43 (0)7672 701-0 www.lenzing.com

Austrian group Lenzing is a supplier of high-quality, innovative products made from cellulose fibers. Lenzing fibers are made from the natural raw material wood which contains about forty percent of cellulose. The natural origin contributes to the fibers‘ excellent properties such as absorbency and moisture management, the industrial production process provides clearly defined, uniform quality. As showed in the following table, Lenzing fibers are cellulose-based man-made fibers . Their famous brands are Modal and Tencel, Viscose and Lenzing FR.

http://www.lenzing.com/

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The different types of fibres (source: Lenzing)

Lenzing endeavor themselves to make their fibers ever more environmentally friendly in reducing for instance water consumption during manufacturing process. At Texworld 2010, The Lenzing Innovation pavilion gathered textile manufacturers using Lenzing fibers, especially Modal and Tencel. These asian suppliers came from China (10), India (1), South Korea (4) and Taiwan (4).

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Zhangjiagang Aoyang Wool Fabrics

Address : European Industrial Park Zhangjiagang City, Jiangsu China http://www.aoyang.com

Contact : Christina Guo Sales Phone : +86 512 58595603 8863 [email protected]

Jiangsu Aoyang Industrial Group is a diversified enterprises group with wool spinning and weaving as its core industry, located in European Industrial Park of Zhangjiagang City. It has 11 sub-companies, one overseas office and one overseas sub-company. Its business scope covers worsted woolen fabrics, garment, chemical fibers, wool yarn, tops, energy developing, printing packaging and international trade. It is one of the largest export bases of woolen products in China. Aoyang Industrial Group owns advanced worsted woolen fabrics equipment, including wool scouring, wool carding, wool spinning, weaving and finishing devices. Above 90% of the devices, including advanced inspection devices and CAD systems, were imported from EU or Japan. Every year it develops more than a thousand new products and patterns. Zhangjiagang Aoyang Wool Fabric Co. Ltd proposes wool fabrics containing between 40% and 60% of recycled wool content made with wool reprocessed from industrial waste. Recycled wool fibers are usually blended with synthetic fibers such as polyester and spandex for instance. While this company has been recycling wool wastes for 20 years, it is now a fact that their western customers such as H&M or Gap like to promote when selling apparels.

http://www.aoyang.com/

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TECHNICAL TEXTILES

Although Texworld is not a technical textile fair, some textile suppliers proposed interesting fabrics suitable for outdoor, sports apparels having properties such as thermal insulation, cool feeling, anti-odor, anti-mosquito…

However, it should be said that only a few of them proposed really new products as functional textiles used in sportswear for instance have been on the market for many years now.

PU lamination and coating for instance give fabrics properties such as waterproofing and breathability.

Win Trend International Co

Address : 12F-1, N°150, Jian Yi Road Chung Ho City, Tapei Hsien Taiwan http://www.wintrend.com.tw

Contact : Ken Chang General Manager Phone: 886-2-82265198 [email protected]

Win Trend International proposes 3 fiber modified technical fabrics. The fabrics may be surface treated in which case any fibre can be used. For a long lasting effect which does not disappear upon washing the apparel or the garment, the fibers have to be treated during yarning. Good results have only be obtained so far with polysester and nylon fibers.

Germanium alloy added fibers are used to make fabrics with the following features: 1. Far infrared ray allowing to keep the body warm. 2. Deodorizing effect 3. Anti-static effect 4. Negative ions to neutralize the environment. 5. Fast drying

These fabrics are especially useful to make outdoor wear, sportswear, casual wear and thermal wear. However the price of this fabric is about 40% more expensive than the same fabric made from non-modified polyester or nylon fibers.

Adding particles of Jade mineral to polyester allows to get a fabric having an cool feel. Wearing cool icy functional textiles can lower the body temperature by 1-2℃. Calculation has shown that this effect can help lower air conditioning temperature by 1℃ and therefore save 3-5% electric power and reduce carbon dioxide emission. The fabric made with this treated fibers has the following features and is particularly useful for outdoor wear, sportswear and casual wear: Cool Touch, Anti-UV, Fast drying

Bamboo charcoal is added to the polyester yarns in order to confer special properties to the fibers. The properties of the fabrics thus obtained are: 1. Far Infrared Ray helping keep the body warm 2. Odor Elimination 3. Minus Ions to neutralize the environment 4. Fast drying

http://www.wintrend.com.tw/

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The bamboo stems are sintered at 1200°C and the bamboo charcoal fine particles are then added to the polyester fibers. In order to get textiles with brighter colors, the charcoal particles may be silica- coated in order to make “white bamboo charcoal”. The textile colors are then much more vivid. This bamboo added textile is about 25% more expensive than identical textile made with non-modified polyester fibers. In addition to these technical textiles, this company also propose a scented fabric whose effect last up to 20 washing up.

Wujiang Qingyou Fiber Co. Ltd.

Address : No. 1, building 3 North Textile Zone Shengze Town http://qingyou.en.gongchang.com

Contact : Mr Mingwei [email protected] Phone: 86-512-63515623

Established in 2004, Wujiang Qingyou Fiber Co. Ltd. specializes in the design, development and production of chemical fiber fabrics. This company has a workforce of over 100 people, and exports 80% of its products to South Korea, Russia, Southeast Asia and the Middle East.

This company was the only one at Texworld Paris 2010 to propose a fabric that changes color upon heating. According to the sales represenative, any woven or knitted fabric, including polyester, cotton and nylon, can be treated. Patterns fade away as the fabric cools down.

- The temperature range upon which the color change appear can be tailored according to the need (20, 30 or 40 °C). - This effect, obtained through coating, last for up to 20 washings. - This very special fabirc is $1.2 per meter more expensive than non-treated fabric when there is a pattern, and $2.5 per meter for plain full effect fabric.

For the time being, this function has only been used to make fancy clothes, but one could imagine some “intelligent” applications for this very interesting product (fever indicator for instance…) also available in plain color without any pattern. In this cas, the fabric color changes to a lighter shade. Qingyou Fiber booth also featured a so called “air conditioning fabric” abble to lower body temperature by 3 °C. Woven polyester, nylon and cotton fabrics can be treated and the effect is ever lasting according to the company. These fabrics cost $1.5 per meter more than non-treated ones.

http://qingyou.en.gongchang.com/

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Techarme Apparel Co. Ltd

Address : Building C, No.192, Lane 95, Sec. 2 Hezun N. Road Jhongli City Taoyuan County 32060 Taiwan www.techarme.com.tw

Contact : Jerry Huang [email protected] Phone: 0912-927-968

Based in Taipei, Techarme Apparel Co., is a garments supplier specialized in outdoor apparels. Their award wining AirDown Lining Vest is patented worldwide, and they provide custom-ready range of AirDown vest and jacket for customer to put their own labels.

AirDown Lining Vest can fit into all kinds of jacket and vest without changing the apparence design. This invovation has been fitted into ski jacket, motocycle jacket, fishing vest, work jacket, military coat, casual jacket and even high fashion trench coat. The company also produces bags such as laptop protective bags and backpacks.

One vest fits all weathers from -30°C to 15°C. The body temperature is easily regulated by adjusting the amount of air inside the jacket as the trapped air is the best insulation component to keep the body warm. The idea is to blowing air into the vest when cold and deflate the air when warm.

http://www.techarme.com.tw/

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DESIGNERS & FASHION

“Because today's talents and creativity are tomorrow's business”, Texworld Paris 2010 supported 10 young students designers from the international design school ESMOD Paris, who had the opportunty to meet some exhibitors who sponsored them with fabrics to create their graduate collections. These collections were showcased at Texworld in the area "Designers & Fashion".

Texworld organised another event with the help of the Académie Internationale de Coupe de Paris: a real workshop was set up where teachers and students were working under visitors’ eyes during the four days of the exhibition. This academy, which is private but whose qualifications are recognised by the state, holds continuous education courses to teach around 200 young people or adults to become pattern-makers and cutting artists.

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CONCLUSION

The organisers recorded nearly 15 000 entries at Texworld Paris 2010 - 0,7% less than during september 2009 Texworld. The real number of visistors is however on the increase with +3,3% compared to same month last year. Visitors could meet with 885 exhibitors - 15 % more than last year – amongst which 150 apparel manufacturers. Texworld is not anymore a textile only trade fair as Messe Frankfurt, the organizer have shown during this latest edition their will to make it an alltogether Textile and Apparel Fair. The next Texworld show will be held at Paris-le Bourget exhibition centre on 7-10th February 2011.

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ABOUT VEILLE SALON / A PROPOS DE VEILLE SALON

Lancé officiellement depuis le début de l’année 2010 par la société de veille et d’intelligence économique VIEDOC Consulting, VeilleSalon.com est le premier service professionnel de veille salon destiné aux entreprises et s’appuie sur un des plus importants annuaires mondiaux des salons, colloques et autres événements internationaux.

Ce nouveau service professionnel est destiné aussi bien aux visiteurs / entreprises, aux exposants qu’aux organisateurs de salons.

A travers un annuaire bilingue, c’est plus de 7500 salons et évènements internationaux portant sur la plupart des secteurs industriels et tertiaires ainsi que les métiers de l’entreprise comme par exemple : - Aéronautique, Agriculture, Agroalimentaire, Automobile, Matériaux, Bâtiment, Biens de consommations, Cosmétique, Electronique, Défense, Energie, Optique, Pharmaceutique, Télécommunications… pour les secteurs industriels ; - Banque/assurance, Hôtellerie, Immobilier, Médias/publicités, Services à la personne, Tourisme… pour les secteurs tertiaires ; - Chimie, Design/architecture, Distribution, Emballage, Enseignement/formation, Hygiène & environnement, Informatique, Innovation, Maintenance, Mécanique, Qualité, Ressources humaines… pour les métiers Outre des fonctionnalités puissantes de recherches multicritères (dates, lieux, mots-clés, secteurs, organisateurs, exposants...), le site VeilleSalon.com propose également aux visiteurs de bénéficier d'un agenda interactif et personnalisable des salons à venir, d’une newsletter mensuelle, d’un forum et bien d'autres services encore.

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Ainsi, que vous soyez une entreprise soucieuse d’optimiser sa veille salon, un futur exposant ou un organisateur d’événements, nous avons développé des solutions sur mesure susceptibles de répondre à vos attentes. Pour accéder à notre site : http://www.veillesalon.com.

http://www.veillesalon.com/

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VIEDOC: PRESENTATION

VIEDOC est une société au cœur de l’information. Elle constitue un véritable partenaire des entreprises de la stratégie à l’opérationnel.

VIEDOC a pour vocation d’aider ses clients dans les phases amont de leurs activités (intelligence économique, knowledge management, analyse de la concurrence, veille technologique, étude de marché, veille brevets, benchmarking, transferts technologiques, état de l’art…) et couvre ainsi l’ensemble des métiers liés à la recherche et à l’analyse d’informations utiles à l’entreprises

Ces métiers ne nécessitent pas impérativement des compétences permanentes dans l'entreprise. Mais, ils imposent une présence pertinente au bon moment dans son cycle de vie. VIEDOC intervient donc pour ses clients sur des durées longues et également plus courtes lorsqu'il s'agit de mettre en œuvre son expérience pour aider à la décision.

VIEDOC conseille ainsi des entreprises de tous secteurs d'activité (automobile, aéronautique et défense, agroalimentaire, cosmétique, santé, matériaux, optique, packaging, télécommunications...).

De part ses activités, VIEDOC peut donc aider toute entreprise ambitieuse et consciente de l'importance d'investir à ce niveau : de la PME ultra innovante avide de conseils stratégiques dans des jalons très serrés, aux grands groupes industriels soucieux de garder leur position de leadership. Méthodologie :

Notre démarche se veut pragmatique et construite sur une méthodologie rigoureuse reprenant l'analyse des enjeux, la collecte, le traitement, l’analyse et la diffusion d’informations à forte valeur ajoutée.

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Spécialistes de la recherche et de l’analyse d’information à forte valeur ajoutée, nous mettons à contribution notre expérience, nos méthodologies et notre capacité d’analyse pour vous fournir des informations qualifiées et validées de haute qualité.

Experts dans l’identification des transferts technologiques, nous avons de cesse de cultiver notre vision multisectorielle en apportant notre professionnalisme et notre savoir faire à de nombreux clients, grands groupes industriels et PME/PMI, issus d’une dizaine de secteurs d’activités distincts.

C'est cette expérience qui permet, aujourd'hui, de mettre à la disposition de ses clients, une analyse pertinente ne négligeant aucune des implications techniques, économiques, juridiques ou humaines de leurs travaux et ce, dans le respect total des règles de déontologie qui guident l’ensemble des activités de la société VIEDOC.

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Rapport de veille_salon_texworld_paris_2010

Technology

Transcript of Rapport de veille_salon_texworld_paris_2010