Pv 1 Final PDF

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PREMIERE VISION

trend report

prepared by Nelson JafferyDesign Dept, HO

September 2010

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The overall message for autumn/winter 2011/12 at Premire Visionis surprise and contradiction.

Formalwear fabrics take on a more casual aspect through laundering

and more relaxed construction,and the casualwear sector follows a crisper, more sophisticated aspect.

A renewed interest in offbeat, often ostentatious, fantasyand unexpected visual aesthetics makes for a highly complexand sophisticated season,playing on the polarities of lightness versus density, clarity versus softness,and natural versus imitation.

PREMIERE VISION

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Heritage looks continue to be very strong, with an interest inclassical Donegal tweeds, multi-colour and yarn-mixed

boucl tweeds and sartorial herringbone, dogtooth and microgeometric pattern wovens and jerseys, emulating retro andraditional fabric looks.

Traditional archive-influenced fabrics continue to be very strong, with a renewedinterest in tweedy aspects and classical colorationColour-mixed boucl and fancy tape yarns decorate fancy tweedsMore traditional checks and Donegal tweeds are enlivened by irregular andmulticolour neps and slubs

Sartorial masculine suitings in herringbone, dogstooth and micro-geometric patternwovens are key in chin yarn with jersey variations offering a soft-tailoring alternativeWoollen outerwear weights have colour-blended heathery yarn and milled, softened,raised and felted handles for a rounded compactness

Heritage LooksPREMIERE VISION

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3D surfaces dominate many fabric types, as quilted, pleated,retracted and blistered structures continue to become more

voluminous, complex and provocative, from the mostsculpted outerwear types to the finest shirtings and dressweights

3D surface effects continue to be a key focus across many fabric types -from quilted technical performance fabrics to sculpted outerwear wooland fluidly pleated lightweightsQuilted, pleated, retracted and blistered structures become more exaggerated in scale,

often combining matt-and-shine yarns, as performance structuresmove closer to fashion fabricsLighter-weight shirting and dress weights have fine pliss and seersucker effects,forming micro-dimensional textures

Three Dimensional surfaces

PREMIERE VISION

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Double faced fabrics were explored in contrastingaspects .weights, gauges, fibres, structures and

finishes, with clean with soft, plain with pattern orcompact with airy oppositions creating the mostdirectional looks.

Double-faced aspects explore contrasting weight, gauge, fibre, structure and finish

Clean with soft, plain with pattern and compact with airy oppositions createthe most directional seasonal messages

Checked and striped contrasts are seen in woven and jersey combinations,sometimes playing on gauge and hand feel

Pigment prints on shirting checks created faux-plain contrasts

Double faced aspects

PREMIERE VISION

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Exploded or magnified scale macro structures have beenseen across the fair, in solid colour or in pattern contrast,

working especially well in traditional weave structures asdirectional updates

Exploded and magnified-scale macro structures are seen across the fair, in solidcolour or pattern contrast, working especially well in traditional weave structures asdirectional updatesCoarse gauge rovings, tape yarns and multi-plied yarn twists decorate jacquard weaves

in floating formationOuterwear wools bear large-scale embroidery patternsTraditional checks and stripes in simple weaves create unexpectedlyeccentric proportions when blown up inscale

Magnified scale patten

PREMIERE VISION

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Faux real finishes were in abundance, and coatings lookednewest when applied to textured surfaces such as boucle

tweeds, plush pile fur or irregularly textured plains, tochallenge visual and tactile perceptions

Blister jacquard emulates cable-knit stitches and imagined woven structures fornew trompe l'oeil effects, especially in contrast thick and thin yarnsWet-look, oily, rubber-look and metallic coatings are key for a new luxe effectKnit-stitch cables are emulated in print and woven jacquard form for aplayful morphing of technique

Faux real effects

PREMIERE VISION

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For print directions ABSTRACTION is key, as digital printingallows for complex pictorial and photographic visuals. Scene

scapes, real and imagined inspired cosmic, surreal and birds-eye views of sea, sky and fantastical beasts, often inimpressive scale

Impressionistic pointillism is broken down on satin, wool voile and washed silkas well as sheer chiffon and organza types

Pattern emulates strange universes, as scene-scapes, real and imaginary,inspire cosmic, surreal and bird's-eye views of sea, land and sky

Strange nature and fantastical beast motifs in shadowy and nocturnal colours

are manipulated, juxtaposed and distorted, combining feathers and furs withhybrid foliage in unsettling effects

Abstract prints

PREMIERE VISION

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Animal skin-looks continue to have a strong showing,with naturally shaded colouration balancing the more

exaggerated textures - shaved and embossed, crimpedand curled, and shaggy and loopy effects for jersey andwoven pile fabrics. Leatherette and suede-looks arealso key for casual weights, in comfortable andperforming variations.

Wintry animal pelts and imitation shearlings inspireshaved and embossed, crimped and curled effectsfor knitted and woven pile fabricsShaggy woollen yarn heavier-gauge jersey andbrushed-pile mohair knits with ombr colorationupdate knitwear looksLeatherette and suede are also key for casualweights, looking newest in patinated anddecoratively aged looksMore exotic skin influences, such as snakeskin,are seen for embossed and pleated suedettefabric types

Animal-skin effects

PREMIERE VISION

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