2012 Vintage - Press Pack

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Lettres De Châteaux Marie-Stéphane Malbec 12, rue d’Enghien - 33000 Bordeaux [email protected] Tel.: +33 (0)5 56 44 63 50 Vintage Press pack

Transcript of 2012 Vintage - Press Pack

Page 1: 2012 Vintage - Press Pack

Lettres De ChâteauxMarie-Stéphane Malbec

12, rue d’Enghien - 33000 Bordeaux

[email protected]

Tel.: +33 (0)5 56 44 63 50

VintagePress pack

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C o n t e n t s

2012 vintage in Bordeaux Irritating, late, complex, original, technical…Château Talbot, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Saint-Julien Château de Lamarque, Haut-Médoc Château Paveil de Luze, Margaux Château Marquis de Terme, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Margaux Château Belle-Vue, Château de Gironville, Crus Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc et Château Bolaire, Bordeaux Supérieur, Haut-Médoc Château Cantemerle, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Haut-Médoc Château Sénéjac, Cru Bourgeois,Haut-Médoc Château de Rouillac, Pessac-Léognan Château Carbonnieux, Grand Cru Classé, Graves Château de Pressac, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé Château Soutard, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé Château Grand Corbin, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru ClasséChâteau Canon Pécresse, Canon Fronsac

2012 vintage at Sauternes Complex harvests, low yields and drastic selection will undoubtedly result in some very fine wines!Château Guiraud, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Sauternes

2012 vintage in Côtes de GascogneDomaine d’Arton, Côtes de Gascogne

2012 vintage in Languedoc-RoussillonVignobles Lorgeril, Languedoc-Roussillon

2012 vintage in ProvenceChâteau Lauzade, Côtes de Provence

2012 vintage in BandolDomaine de La Bégude, Bandol

2012 vintage in Bourgogne‘‘2012: a rare and precious vintage in Burgundy’’ Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne

2012 vintage in ChampagneChampagne Philipponnat

2012 vintage in LebanonChâteau Marsyas

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The 2012 Vintage in BoRdeauxIrritating, late, complex, unpredictable, technical…

At first, a year full of challenges, followed, later, by some pleasant surprises; Bordeaux’s

2012 vintage should be labelled too hastily. It requires very careful analysis.

If you listened to everyone, you could easily get lost in speculative semantics because

everyone has his or her take on this vintage. It was infuriating (for the wine-makers);

uneven (for consumers); very successful (for the dry white wines); jealous (for the

sweet white wines). And so it goes on. Perhaps we should just stick to comments

from oenologists at the Gironde Chamber of Agriculture: ‘2012 is a decidedly good

vintage.’

A good vintage, of course, does not mean a great vintage. Overall, Bordeaux wines

did better than in 2011, though nothing to compare with 2009 and 2010. Nature is

not generous every year and apart from the wonderful, salutary month of August, the

weather tested wine makers’ nerves to the limit. Much rain and a cool July caused

late although not necessarily flawed ripening.

The best results will be found in the dry whites: perfectly balanced, fruity, aromatic

and with the livliness that fresh acidity brings. The same is true for the rosés, which

don’t have the hot, heavy character of very warm years and which will make pefect

drinking over what promises to be a good summer in 2013.

Unfortunately, the sweet white wines were not so consistent. In Sauternes it was

“demanding yet surprising”, with small yields, variable quality and some resounding

successes.

For the reds, the virtues of a Merlot-Cabernet blend and the contribution of varieties,

such as Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, enabled skilled wine makers to

make up for the damage from coulure, oïdium, millérandage, mildew, botrytis and

humidity. 2012 is unquestionably a technical vintage, where vignerons had to be ever

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vigilant in the vineyard against fungus, disease and pests, as well as being careful

and attentive in the winery.

And on this point, it is useful to remember the contribution of new techniques and

progess in oenology, which have come out of the Bordeaux Institute and the decisive

work it has been doing since the end of last century. In 2012, they truly demonstrated

what a difference they can make.

2012 then is the vintage of the bon vigneron who, through incessant work, skill

and experience made good wine, overcoming all the difficulties of a complicated,

demanding and capricious year.

For all these reasons 2012 is a «decidedly good vintage” and the fine terroirs will

provide wine lovers with first-class, balanced wines that reflect the classic Bordeaux

style.

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Christian Hostein, Vineyard Manager at Château talbot,Grand Cru Classé in 1855, Saint-Julien

It’s the end of the year and time to take stock. The tension has gone. Winter work

and routine have returned to the vineyard. The new wine is in new oak and we can

begin see what this vintage will be.

The first question might be,»where did all these extraordinary vats of Cabernet

Sauvignon come from?», because at first glance, the weather was really not ideal.

A cold, rainy winter (the coldest in 30 years), followed by a cool, rainy spring led to

capricious flowering and imperfect fruit set. The result was what appeared to be a small

harvest, similar to 2002, with lacklustre Merlot and light Cabernet Sauvignon.

The beginning of summer also fell way short of expectations and we had to wait until

August to finally enjoy sustained, hot, dry weather, which continued until the onset

of a heat wave. During this period, a few of the most exposed grapes, those at the

ends of the rows, that get most exposure to the afternoon sun, actually got slightly

burnt.

September promised to be good. We harvested the Sauvignon Blanc on September

12th and 13th, then the Semillon on the 17th, with fine freshness and exotic aromas

mixed with white peach and pear.

Until then, all was well and the cumulative temperature level was close to that of

2010. Perhaps it was all going to work out?

However things started to go very wrong in the second half of September, with

significant rainfall. The berries were swollen and water reached the roots. Botrytis

cinerea, our staunch enemy that had been prêtty absent up to that point, literally

exploded in early October. Picking the Merlots from October the 1st to the 3rd

proved a good bet, producing expressive grapes, not over-mature but with excellent

concentration and good sugar-acidity balance.

We then decided to halt harvesting for 6 days. We lived in a sort of sauna and sleep

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became impossible with humidity approaching 100% and night-time temperatures

of 18°C. Cep mushrooms were popping up in all the nearby fields ‒ some people

were even harvesting them with scythes! Not a good omen.

Finally we started picking again. The ever-sensitive Petits Verdots were giving cause

for concern and we harvested them all within a day.

The Cabernets Sauvignons were next. We had to make a difficult decision and give

priority to bringing in the grapes on the plateau at peak maturity at the expense of

other areas of the vineyard. The skins were fragile, but the phenolic potential was

there and although they will produce limited quantities, these will be complex, totally

classic Bordeaux wines.

Here at the heart of the plateau on the finest terroirs, water that is harmful in excess,

acts like a buffer on a piece of fine silver. Everything is smooth, well-defined and

round, no rough edges! These old vines are well nigh perfect. Their fruit is a testament

to the work of everyone on the estate, in a decidedly Médoc climate. Exhausted and

washed out, we finished harvesting on October 16th.

Today the malolactic fermentations are nearly complete and by Christmas the wines

will be stored safely in new barrels. In January the blendings will begin, that fine

alchemy between our palates and our instincts; they will be critical for this difficult

vintage, although my feeling is elegance should win through.

Rainfall:

January : 43 mm - February : 3 mm (snow) - March : 25 mm - April : 188 mm

May : 39 mm - June : 71 mm - July : 42 mm - August : 12 mm

September : 60 mm - October : 128 mm - November : 84 mm

First Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon flowers: May 29th

Mid-flowering: June 4th

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Beginning of leaf thinning operations: June 25th

Harvest: Sauvignon Blanc: September 12th and 13th

Sémillon: September 17th

Trial of géo box for the reception of grapes at the winery: September

27th and 28th

Merlot: October 1er, 2nd and 3rd

Petit Verdot: October 9th

Cabernet Sauvignon: from October 10th to 16th

December 2012

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Marie-Hélène et Pierre-Gilles Gromand d’evry, Co-owners of Château de lamarque,Haut-Médoc

...

I described the last three vintages - 2009, 2010, 2011- as ‘wine maker’ vintages.

In describing 2012, I am reminded of professor Peynaud’s motto, “You make good

wines with good grapes.” Wine makers were only able to prepare the quality of

the 2012 crop by making the right growing decisions during a year of hide and

seek with the weather.The harvest sun did the rest…transforming the grapes into an

exceptional or very fine vintage.

All year long, as in every vintage, it was the wine maker’s close scrutiny and intelligence,

which produced healthy, mature and plentiful grapes. Still, rainfall and temperatures

during the 2012 harvest proved complex. This year’s weather conditions were nothing

like those of the past three years and in the end, it was the weather at harvest time

that characterised the vintage.

The almost tropical climate we lived through in late August, with some hot and (thank

God) dry periods, had us on a knife edge until October 1st, when we began picking.

We finished on October 19th.

From then on the vigneron needed all his wine maker skills. We had to wait for

each variety, on each plot to reach the right balance: pH. theoretical degree, acidity

and…perfect condition. We took maximum risk, certainly, and we also needed the

capability to act quickly in the vineyard as well as in the winery.

This year we picked by hand and by machine. We used a state-of-the-art harvesting

machine (it has no de-stemmer, to avoid tearing the grapes) to pick the first Merlot. We

then picked the remaining Merlot by hand and the Cabernet Sauvignon mechanically.

The Cabernet Franc and all the Petits-Verdot were harvested manually.

We employed something of a ‘strike force’ strategy to harvest at optimum balance

and optimum condition and crucially, we also had to bring-in extra sorting teams to

check the grapes on arrival in the winery.

Until the 2011 vintage, our draconian sorting had been done, after de-stemming,

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on a 5-meter vibrating table by a team of 8 trained people. The grapes were then

crushed before vatting. But this method, however excellent, was slow and led us to

run risks with regard to the pace of harvest.

For a few years we had studied various sorting methods to improve work and speed

and, last spring, we opted for the optical Defranceschi ‘X-TRI’, a machine already in

service with some of our celebrated neighbours (La Lagune, Leoville Las Cases…)

It combines both high quality sorting (cameras analyse chlorophyll rate according

to set criteria) and speed. In view of conditions in 2012, it was a good investment

and we were able to harvest, stop and resume operations precisely at the pace

we desired. As I said earlier, the objective was to wait until the last moment then

intervene quickly, according to the plot and the grape variety.

Although unplanned, we should also add that we placed a supplementary vibrating

table just outside the ‘XTRI’ before crushing, to do a final, two-person check and

manual sorting - just-in-case.

Vinification was relatively easy and the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations went

well:

Pressing: one spinning and two pressings

Yield: 37 hl/ha

Alcohol: circa 13.3°

Tannin: average IPT 72

Acidity: 3.4g/l

…in short: good balance.

Grape Varieties Château de Lamarque 2012:

45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 12% Petit-Verdot.

The Cabernet Franc with the young Merlot went into in the D de Lamarque.

We blended with the help of oenologists Jacques and Eric Boissenot and produced

80% ‘Grand Vin’ (Château de Lamarque) and 20% ‘second wine’ (D de Lamarque).

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All the 2012 went into barrel from mid-November 2012 until mid-January 2013. We

used 5 French barrel makers. The barrels were medium toasted. We used 45% new

oak, 40% barrels of one wine, 15% barrels of two wines

Today, February1st 2013, Château de Lamarque 2012 is a brilliant, deep garnet-red

colour. The nose is still discreet and slightly dominated by the oak, with aromas of

black fruit (blueberry, blackcurrant). On the palate, it has good balance and structure

and is very dense with fine fruit and persistent tannins - a wine that reflects all the

efforts made by the estate throughout 2012 in the vineyard, as well as wise decisions

taken during harvest. It is a classic vintage, reminiscent of 2006.

February 2013

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Frédéric de LuzeOwner of Château Paveil de luze,Margaux

After a mild start to winter, February saw two weeks of record-breaking cold weather

in the Bordeaux region.

The rainy spring unfortunately caused significant coulure, generating small yields and

considerable variation, mainly in the Merlots.

Summer finally arrived in mid-July. Along with the first leaf removal operations on the

east-facing side of the vines, we decided to start thinning-out to remove any rare

clusters of rot within the bunches.

August was hot and dry, though not excessively so and at this point we were all

looking at the prospect of a good vintage.

Despite the improvement in the weather, however, the véraison was uneven, requiring

a second green harvest to give the grapes chance to reach perfect maturity. The

inconsistent véraison confirmed that the harvest would be late, with the risk of

unpredictable weather. Even more so than in previous years, it was abundantly clear

that the condition of the grapes would be the deciding element.

The dreaded equinox rains came right on cue, heralding a change in the weather

that lasted from mid-September right up to the end of the harvest.

Mild temperatures and alternating periods of sun and scattered showers were

stressful to say the least but it was worth keeping one’s nerve because, in fact, the

grapes were ripening, slowly but surely.

Despite adverse weather conditions and the presence of botrytis, all our efforts in

the vineyard were paying off. This was confirmed by the fact that the all important

visit from our oenologists, Stéphane Derenoncourt and Simon Blanchard, was not

programmed until September 20th.

Stress levels rose again over the next two weeks. Lots of growers were harvesting

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in the Bordeaux region, but we felt we had to wait, not wanting to risk compromising

this year’s efforts. We tasted the grapes in the vineyard on October 4th and finally

decided to harvest the following Monday.

Nineteen days later than last year, the red Merlot on the Pont Rouge plot were the

first to be harvested; the first vats looked encouraging, heralding a vintage with good

balance. Two days after, we attacked the Paveil Merlots. Conditions proved difficult

but somehow we managed to harvest between showers. Here again the newly-filled

vats gave off very attractive red fruit aromas.

On October 11th it was time to bring in the Cabernets, first the Cabernet Franc, then

the Sauvignon. The weather had hardly improved although we kept harvesting and

thanks to the continued ripening of the Cabernet Sauvignon, we looked forward to a

pretty calm end to the harvest.

The result was a vintage with fine maturity, picked between October 8th and 16th

and in record time for the estate.

Berry-tasting revealed good ripeness and wonderful potential, encouraging us

to extract softly and stagger pumping-over to respect the grapes as much as

possible.

Post-fermentary maceration took place at high temperature, in order to obtain plenty

of fat and ripe tannins. When the wines were run-off, they were aromatic with soft

and elegant structure.

Tasting notes (newly run-off wines):

• Paveil Merlot:

Red fruit, raspberry, redcurrant nose with the typical smoky hints that are the

expression of gravely soil. The palate is sweet, round, at once creamy and dense.

Good, silky tannins on the finish.

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• Paveil Cabernet Sauvignon:

Redcurrant, rose and raspberry nose. Clean, firm front palate followed by fine but

tight tannins on the mid palate. Very long, aromatic finish.

February 2013

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Ludovic david,Technical Manager at Châteaux marquis de terme,Grand Cru Classé in 1855, Margaux

2012 Vintage, first impressions

A wine maker’s vintage: rainy spring, summer drought and a hot, wet October!

The rain has finally stopped!!!!! We have just completed harvesting and the sun has

returned to the Bordeaux sky. The vineyards are still beautiful, scarcely touched by

tinges of autumn red.

What a strange vintage. The grapes took an eternity to ripen, leaving us with endless

questions on when to pick them.

As in all good stories, everything began well at the beginning of the year. A cold, rainy

winter and a mild, rainy spring created a superb leaf canopy, the like of which we had

not seen for 5 years and periods of sun and rain favoured regular, vigorous growth.

The first problems appeared during flowering which, due to alternating periods of

damp and warmth, was very patchy and uneven. Disease (mildew and oïdium) tested

our skills in vineyard management to the full.

The rain, however, also encouraged the spread of mugwort, purslane and chickenwort,

as well as ray grass, demonstrating renewed soil vitality, since we stopped using

herbicides in favour of tilling the soil between rows and plants.

Stopping systematic application of insecticides and choosing to limit treatments

has produced large quantities of typhlodromus (natural predators of insects that

devastate vines) and meant that wildlife has returned. All of this is very encouraging

and is the result of a three-year commitment plan to protect the environment by

using organic methods. Today, this means that our choice of viticulture is making the

best of our fine terroir and year after year it is re-establishing it bio balance.

A dry summer from July to early September (less than 5 mm rainfall) slowed down the

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ripening proces but lots of sunshine and a warm September confirmed the vintage’s

potential.

Rain in late September is rarely welcome but since the vines had been prepared by

numerous leaf removal operations, we actually saw an accelaeration in ripening on

several plots thanks to some much needed water.

With our eyes glued to various Internet weather forecasts, we continued to prepare

for the harvest. From September 24th until 27th there was a serious deterioration in

weather conditions including a rare phenomenon in Bordeaux: a week of tropical-

like weather where daytime temperatures reached 25°C-28°C and 90% humidity

- perfect conditions for our old enemy, botrytis cinerea. We spent the time waiting

to pick by visiting to each plot. Our aim: to assess ripeness and not to panic about

rot!

In the end, the Merlot were beautifully ripe and harvested on October 9th,10th and

11th, as we had taken into account the late véraison these turned out to be the

exact dates we’d planned for, for over than a month, The very good Petit Verdot was

harvested on October 12th and showed good fruit and power.

We were not so lucky with the Cabernet Sauvignon. In my opinion we harvested 10

days too early, but we couldn’t wait any longer, as the forecast was for rain, wind,

unsettled conditions and cool temperatures. Indeed, the following weekend, the

weather was wet, windy and cold validating, if need be, our decision to pick when

we did.

So what was the result? What sort of quality did we produce? With the vinification

process under way, these are the questions we ask ourselves each year at this

time. when our exacting work as œnologists and our knowledge of the terroir now

come into play in the winery: singling out batches, selecting wines, working each vat

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carefully and never using a ‘system’ to vinify but looking to exploit the potential of

each vat.

Now that the alcoholic fermentation in the first batches is complete and maceration

is underway our expectations are confirmed: beautiful Merlots and slightly tight

Cabernets with great finesse and elegance.

Nothing came easy in this vintage but hard work and tough choices in the vineyard

and the winery paid off. 2012 is a fine example of a wine maker’s vintage, where

quality was down to us making the right decisions.

The potential is there and careful ageing will refinine and marry the raw material. But

already we feel confident that this new vintage will sit perfectly in the elegant and

charming style and tradition of Marquis de Terme wines.

November 2012

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Jean-Michel Marle, General Manager,at Château belle-vue, Cru Bourgeois, Haut Médoc,at Château de Gironville, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc and Château bolaire, Bordeaux Supérieur

Vine cycle in 2012:

A long, hard winter frost was followed by mild weather. Growth occured in spurts and

budburst was quick and even. There was then a surge in growth (and the spread

of disease, much more sustained than in 2007), with a temporary halt in growth in

June. Conditions during flowering were mediocre, limiting fertilisation and impacting

on yields. The Merlots and Petit Verdots were particularly affected but the Cabernets

made up for this. There were plenty of bunches although they were smaller than

usual.

Strong and weak points

• Uneven ripening. Rainy weather meant a lot of work to the canopy (leaf

thinning, cleaning…).

• Luckily favorable weather in September allowed us to prepare for the

harvest.

On the whole it was a year that favoured late-ripening varieties. 2012 produced

lovely Cabernets despite the threat from disease, especially botrytis.

dates and harvest operations

13 consecutive days, from October 5th to October 17th.

Harvesting was continuous and weather conditions were variable, ranging from

damp to dry and sunny in the space of one day.

The year’s characteristics

Very short harvest period, with a real need for sorting. We were immediately struck

by the beautiful colour. The risk of dilution due to rainfall was offset by bleeding the

vats and the result was concentrated, fresh wines.

2012 style

The wines are open with pleasant fruit, good tannic structure and intense colour.

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Which other vintage does it remind you of?

2008 and 2009. In many ways it’s a 2008 ‘plus’.

«A very technical wine-making year. An intense harvest was followed by intense

vinifications that required the utmost skill and control of all parameters in the vineyards

and the winery.»

Maximilien Delemotte,Vineyard Manager.

«An incredibly intense vintage, full of surprises. Fortunately, our efforts paid off.»

Vincent Bache-Gabrielsen, Technical Director.

«Once again, nature and climate were the determining factors. Every day the teams

had to adapt their strategies and techniques to get the best out of our grapes.»

Jean-Michel Marle, Director.

January 2013

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Philippe dambrine, Manager of Château Cantemerle, Grand Cru Classé in 1855, Haut-Médoc

The vine cycle:

Budburst occurred in mild, dry weather between March and April. Then, with the

arrival of a cold, wet front, the weather changed, disrupting growth in the young

vines until early May.

June flowering and early July véraison took place in cool weather, affecting volumes.

At that stage, late vine development indicated a late harvest however, the dry, sunny

weather that followed throughout August and September allowed the vines to make

up for lost time.

Harvest:

After a few scattered showers in late September, harvesting took place from October

1st to 16th, The Merlot was brought in in warm sunshine but the rain returned on

October 7th, forcing us to speed up picking.

The keys to success in 2012:

On the whole it was a complicated year, perhaps one that people might call a “wine

maker’s vintage”. The fight against seasonal vine disease was thus decisive in

bringing perfectly healthy grapes into the vats. The choice of dates for harvesting

and our ability to regulate the rhythm of work in the vineyard (harvesting, sorting after

de-stemming, vat room intake management…) were also prerequisites for obtaining

the best results in 2012.

Style:

Initial tastings reveal balance and harmony. The colour is deep and there are lots of

intense primary aromas. On the palate, the wines are soft, round and full, with no

hollowness on the mid-palate or harshness. The unusual power of recent vintages will

probably give way to finesse this year but the 2012 wines will certinly give pleasure

in a few year’s time, just as the 2001s and 2004s are doing now.

January 2013

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damien Hostein,Technical Manager at Château sénéjaC,Haut-Médoc

We are in the winery, blending the various lots for Sénéjac’s 2012 vintage.

How would I sum up the year gone by? Dodging the showers.

This vintage, the first for me at Sénéjac, was difficult. Indeed, the year was marked

by rain at each key stage of the vine’s vegetative cycle.

• April: 153 mm

• May: 50 mm

• June: 85 mm

This caused coulure in the Merlot, but above all led to significant variation in the

bunches at flowering, to the extent that when we carried out maturity assessments

before the harvest, we saw different stages of ripeness on the same plot and even

on the same vine plant.

Today, it is clear that Sénéjac will be a good vintage, which in a few months, I hope,

will delight the “primeur” tasters. This is largely thanks to choosing the harvest dates

with care, and then sticking to them!

A few dates:

• 28th September: picking of the young Merlot

• 2nd, 3rd and 5th October: harvesting of Merlot from the plateau

• 4th October: picking of the Cabernets Franc, no room for error!

• October 8th: harvesting resumed with the Cabernet Sauvignon and finished,

on October 15th with the rows of old Cabernet on the Sénéjac plateau that had

withstood the excessive rain.

2012 is ending with the vineyard teams working once again in the rain and waiting

for drier days in January to bring smiles back to their faces. One thing is certain, we

will all be ready for the next adventure… 2013.

December 2012

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Jean-Christophe Barron,Technical Manager at Château de rouillaC, Pessac-Léognan

Vintage 2012: angel or devil?

You remember some vintages with a sense of calm and tranquility. They’re like a

gentle, comtemplative horeback ride through the woods. We’ll remember 2012 as

the toughest three-day event or a round of show-jumping at the Olympics, requiring

concentration, timing, agility and poise.

After coming through the harsh winter of 2012, the vineyard burst into life thanks to

a warm, dry March. In early April, a spring frost took a few buds and with them a part

of the harvest, we avoided this ‘weather trap’ by using wind turbines and mobilising

of the entire vineyard team. The rest of the month was very wet, gorging the soil with

water.

Hot weather in May enabled very rapid vine development in ideal conditions (moist

soil, warm weather). Unfortunately, mildew, a fungus well-known to wine makers,

also enjoys these conditions and wanted its share of the harvest. It spread rapidly.

and was one of the main difficulties we encountered during the year. Vigilance and

the use of environmentally-friendly methods (we have obtained AREA certification,

«Environmental-Friendly Agriculture in Aquitaine,) enabled us avoid serious

damage.

A warm June meant flowering took place in good conditions but the first days of

July were cool and we were convinced were were in for a poor summer. Fortunately,

our fears were quickly dispelled, as from the last ten days of July onwards we had

excellent weather. These exceptional conditions (not a drop of rain for 2 months)

provided good ripening for both white and red varieties.

The first rains came in late September, proving providential because they provided

the boost to the maturation process, which until then had slowed down due to lack

of water. A second period of heavy rainfall began on October 12th.

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As our Rouillac terroir means the grapes ripen early, our motivated, trained team

of pickers brought in the whites from September 12th to 19th and the reds from

October 1st to 11th. The harvest was in excellent condition and perfectly ripe.

Provided one managed to overcome all the obstacles, 2012 was a generous year.

and generous will be how we describe our wines after blending.

2012, is, in fact, very reminiscent of another vintage that has been constantly in our

minds throughout the tastings, because the comparison seems so obvious. It might,

however, be presumptuous of us to state which one in this report.

January 2013

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eric Perrin, Owner of Château Carbonnieux, Grand Cru Classé - Graves

2012 was a year marked by the vagaries of the weather. A cold, rainy spring rendered

work in the vines difficult. The constant threat of fungal disease required constant

vigilance and real technical ability in choosing the right treatments.

Budburst occurred on the usual dates but below-normal temperatures slowed growth

until June. Only after flowering did the vegetative cycle catch up. Consequently, we

stepped up our work to to curb the vines growth, redirecting sap flow towards the

bunches.

Véraison appeared in the first bunches in early August, leading us to expect a rather

late harvest. Fortunately, we had taken into account the weather’s tendancy to go

awry, or rather, in 2012, it’s tendancy to return to normal. Indeed, rainfall proved

virtually non-existent from mid-July to mid-September, which favoured grape

maturation and concentration and meant we started harvesting on September 4th,

a normal date for the beginning of the harvest at Carbonnieux.

The whites were picked in 15 days and the reds in 14, by a team of about sixty

pickers who worked until October 17th.

It is worth mentionning, perhaps, that we equipped the winery with a new de-stemmer,

which is precise and very gentle and produced unprecedented grape quality.

2012 was an unpredictable vintage with unusual weather, though generous in nature.

It offered us rich, elegant, grapes, with classic character. They have enabled us to

put together a large number of good quality batches that will produce wines worthy

of a Grand Cru Classé such as Carbonnieux.

In the words of Philibert Perrin,“For a winemaker, it’s wonderfully satisfying to see

all the efforts made in the vineyard throughout the year rewarded by the sight of

beautiful grapes pouring into the vats.”

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For the whites, the Sauvignon have that freshness and purity found only in clay-

limestone terroirs. The Semillon are exquisite, with notes of apricot and amazing

volume on the palate.

For the reds, the Merlots surprised us during during pumping-over with their beautifully

intense colour. For their part, the Cabernets are fruity and full of character. They will

require slightly longer maturation than usual, but their power will guarantee long

ageing potential.

2012 was also marked by the arrival of our new vineyard manager, Frédéric Magniez,

who previously worked at the Rothschild estates. Thanks to his expertise and

efficiency, Frédéric quickly took charge of the vineyard, masterfully handling the late

summer work in the vines and then the harvest. Harvesting took place almost entirely

outside the rainy periods and, with the increase in the number of pickers and the

pace with which we harvested, the grapes reached the winery at optimum quality.

2012 will be close to the 2011 for the reds and the whites. The whites will be slightly

fuller on the palate than the 2011s.

December 2012

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Jean-François Quenin, Owner of Château de PressaC,Saint-emilion Grand Cru Classé

The 2012 vintage was marked by a wet, cool spring, which caused the vines not

only to develop at different rates( there were differences between one vine plant

and another and even in bud formation on the same plant) but also led to late and

extended flowering. To top it off, there was an ever present threat from mildew. In

short, at the beginning of summer, morale was not very high!

Then, suddenly, the situation changed and the months of August (especially the

second half) and September were hot and dry, with high variations in temperature,

guaranteeing aromatic richness.

2012 was very demanding in the vineyard, requiring contstant vigilance to protect

against mildew and massive work to ensure even ripening. We hired-in a large team to

perform green harvesting, for example, so that unripe bunches and parts of bunches

were carefully removed; each bunch (a total of 200 km of vine rows) was inspected.

It was the price we had to pay to correct the effects of long, uneven flowering and to

achieve even ripening across the vineyard.

The harvest was late: 4th October for the Pressac Malbec and October 9th for the

Merlot, then the Cabernet Franc. Following a very wet weekend, the mid-October

rains forced us to speed up the picking of the Cabernet Sauvignon, which was

brought-in on the 22nd. In fact, the harvest was not only late but over quickly and we

had to hire more people, 75 pickers, i.e. half as many again as in previous years.

The result is very encouraging: the Merlots are fine, round, aromatic and even if

yields are particularly low, the team’s hard work throughout the summer has been

rewarded.

November 2012

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Véronique Corporandy,Technical Manager at Château soutard,Saint-emilion Grand Cru

Château Soutard

Having merged the terroirs of Cadet Piola and Soutard, we were able to harvest four

varieties: Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, to produce the

first vintage of Grand Soutard.

Once again Soutard’s chalky terroir demonstrated its excellence. The vines were

generous and we were delighted with the volume and quality of the harvest.

Our decision to use biodynamic growing methods proved very benficial, enabling us

to harvest the Merlots and Malbecs at perfect maturity, while the experience of our

team and operational organisation meant we could start harvesting on October 3rd

and finish all of AG2R La Mondiale’s properties on October 13th.

Soutard 2011: 23 ha, Soutard 2012: 30 ha

Château Larmande

Our successes to date have led us to persevere with plot selection. The abandoning

of plots located on terroirs of lesser quality (2ha) will doubtless have a positive effect

on the quality of the wines.

A higher percentage of Cabernet Franc will provide our wines with freshness and

elegance, two essential qualities for the style of wine our customers appreciate.

Larmande 2011: 22 ha, Larmande 2012: 20 ha

February 2013

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Charles Cruseestate Manager at Château Grand Corbin, Saint-emilion Grand Cru Classé

2012 will be remembered for the considerable pressure from disease -mildew,

oïdium, botrytis etc- and by the permanent struggle (that included all scheduled

treatments of the vines) to keep them at bay.

The year was fairly rainy but happily finished with sunny weather in September, which

thoroughly ripened the grapes.

Harvesting took place between October 4th and 18th in relatively good conditions

apart from some scattered showers.

We began with the Merlots, but had to switch to the Cabernets that were threatened

by botrytis. In fact, we picked the Merlots last this year, as they were much less

sensitive to botrytis.

For us, the 2012 vintage was also marked by the merger of Châteaux Haut-Corbin

and Grand Corbin. The new Château Grand Corbin now covers 28.5 hectares

of vines, all adjoining, with 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet

Sauvignon.

The 2012 vintage produced fine, elegant wines. Grand Corbin 2012, the first vintage

following the consolidation, has confirmed our decision to merge the properties: it

combines the power of Haut-Corbin and its Cabernets with the elegance of Grand

Corbin and its ripe, aromatic Merlots.

February 2013

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Jean-Francis PécresseOwner of Château Canon PéCresse,Canon Fronsac

2012, a Darwinian Vintage

2012 proved to be a year of intense natural selection at Château Canon Pécresse.

From the beginning of the year to the very end there were highs and lows, with

alternating extended periods of humidity and cool weather and long cycles of heat

and drought; it was difficult for both the vines and the wine makers.

Sorely tested, the plants constantly had to adapt to their changing environment,

a constant test, even if the diseases that lurked failed to strike. Proof of this is the

historically modest volumes harvested in 2012: 25 hl per hectare! This very small

yield is the happy outcome of a Darwinian process: “The surviving species are not

the most intelligent but those that adapt the best to changes,” declared Darwin.

The most fragile berries were eliminated naturally and in the end only the most resistant

remained. They also proved the best, with perfectly structure. Having captured the

vines’ energy, they improved over time and in the end were amazingly concentrated,

giving this vintage unexpected substance.

March 2013

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2012 in SauTeRneSComplex harvests, low yields and drastic selection will undoubtedly result in some very fine wines!

28

How was the 2012 vintage in Sauternes and Barsac? There cannot be one answer

to this question.

In Sauternes and Barsac, every vintage is something of an adventure. The combination

of sun, wind, and mist necessary for noble rot to appear can seem subject to the will

of the heavens. By chance, for the past ten years, the vineyards producing sweet

wines have seen a long series of fine vintages and a few exceptional ones. An unheard

of phenomenon in Bordeaux!

2012 will be remembered as a complicated year which often placed considerable

strain on the nerves of growers in the region. Spring started warm and dry, and then

ended with rain... Two months of summer without a drop of rain, botrytis that had

trouble getting started, and very localized storms... The somewhat sluggish noble

rot meant that the harvests required extreme patience. In many cases they did not

start until October, and were interrupted by spells of rain. Luckily, the last days of the

harvests saw an unexpected return of the sun.

Every property, and almost every plot, was exposed to different weather conditions,

making the harvests a complex affair. Each château had a window of opportunity

to pick their grapes. The mosaic of the vineyards was a vital factor, but everyone

persevered, dodging the rain drops, picking and sorting the grapes literally one by

one, in the meticulous fashion that is unique to Sauternes. For some, the results

have been beyond their expectations, given the conditions, and there have been

more than a few pleasant surprises.

Every owner is responsible for the image of these great wines and this year, more

than ever, great care is being taken to maintain the exceptional quality that has been

developed over the years. The selection performed at the vineyard will be improved

by highly selective blendings and few will be owners not producing a high quality

vintage.

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The sweet wines of 2012 have a striking aromatic purity. The wines do not rely on

power, impressing instead with finesse, delicacy, smoothness and a freshness that

augurs well for the wines’ long-term balance, with a style that is more ethereal than

in recent years. And which should delight wine lovers…

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xavier Planty,Manager of Château Guiraud, Grand Cru Classé en 1855, Sauternes

Harvest Journal 2012

Monday, September 10th: the start of the dry white wine harvest! 100 harvesters

arrive at Château Guiraud and are kitted out with baskets and pruning shears. At

12:30, the team reunites in the courtyard for lunch and to prepare a fresh start to the

afternoon. The harvest of the G de Château Guiraud will last for two weeks; the last

press is planned for Monday, September 24th.

Wednesday, September 19th: there is concern! Maybe it’s just that time of year, but

the botrytis still hasn’t started its work yet, it’s been too dry (which has dessicated

some grapes) and too cold at night. We have only had two warm nights and a little

morning fog to start the process, a situation we haven’t seen since 1985.

Mercifully, conditions were ideal on the night of Tuesday to Wednesday. Temperatures

stayed above 10°C, a relief after so many nights that were too cool for the perfect

alchemy we need for Sauternes. We also had some light rain, which the sun generously

dried out with a little help from a gentle breeze. Has the botrytis finally arrived?

Thursday, September 20th: a cool morning – too cool. The thermometer seems to

be playing tricks on us again, threatening to undo all the beneficial effects of the night

before. The powdery botrytis fungus demands a perfect trinity of water, wind and

sun and 2012 is reminding us that it is this precious balance of conditions that makes

our golden wines so exceptional.

So we wait, and while we wait we harvest the splendid Semillon grapes for our

delicious dry white wines.

Friday, September 21st: the night brings hope! The temperature has kindly decided

to stay above 15°C. A sprinkle of rain in the morning gives way to a beautiful sunny

afternoon…..can we get out the secateurs for the Sauternes?

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Sunday, September 23rd: two nights in a row above 15°. There was a little rain

and some fog yesterday morning but not today….the grapes seem to be changing,

complicating things for us. We are heading for what we call the “black hole”: the

point where we can no longer make any more dry white wine, but cannot yet begin

our magnificent Sauternes. We hope it won’t last long!

Tuesday, September 25th: the last morning of harvest for the dry whites. It has taken

a total of nine and a half days to harvest the G de Château Guiraud 2012. In the

cellars, the barrels are softly humming. Music to our ears!

Monday, October 1st: a full moon last night. It’s cool outside, we lit the fire in the

château last night for our second Festival of the Moon. Luckily, the weather forecast

says that things are going to warm up again. The secateurs are ready and our friend

Botrytis is beginning to show his face. Just a few more days and we’ll be there!

Thursday, October 4th: the pickers are back in the vines, this time for the Sauternes!

We make an intial trie or sorting to clean the vines with a helping hand in the morning

from local nursery school children.

Tuesday, October 9th: we continue our cleaning process then, finally, the first batches

of Sauternes enter the cellars. But things really are far from straightforward this year

as, even as late as yesterday evening, we were not sure if we would be able to

harvest. Our pickers had to call at 7:30 this morning to find out if they were needed

or not.

Friday, October 12th: another cloudy morning. Fog and the occasional sunny period

between showers has persisted for the past three days. Rain stops us harvesting

today.

Thursday, October 25th: we begin picking again after 12 days of non-stop rain.

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Monday, 29th to Wednesday 31st October: three days that save the harvest…

Thursday, November 1st: the harvest ended at 10:00. We were hastily driven out

of the vines when the dark skies overhead opened up and the rain started to pour,

So it’s over….only three days allowed us to bring in a harvest worthy of Château

Guiraud. We’ll have to wait until the vinification is over to see if the 2012 vintage

kept its promise!

“We harvested botrytised, concentrated grapes on only three days: 29th, 30th and

31st October. Before and after those dates it was OK but there was really nothing

very good. In thirty years of winemaking I have only experienced this three times, in

92, 93 and 94.Fortunately, these three fine days, a rare occurrence in late October,

will enable us to make some premier cru. Our honor has been saved!»

Xavier Planty

The thirtieth vintage will bear the wine maker’s touch and Monsieur Planty’s

signature.

February 2012

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Patrick de Montal,Owner of domaine d’arton,CôTeS de GaSCoGne

This was a year of dramatic climatic contrast:

• Winter temperatures plunging to -18°C with 20cm of snow

• A rainy spring

• A dry summer with less than 20mm of rain in 2 months.

Vine Cycle Summary

We experienced early budding then a slow-down due to a wet, cool spring. A

hailstorm struck the property in full force, resulting in crop losses of 50%, rising to

70% on certain plots.

Extremely staggered flowering in poor conditions (cool temperatures and rain meant

floweing lasted over a month.) After the rain came good, even great, weather and we

even had a summer drought.

Véraison began around August 8th although there was nearly a two-week difference

between berries on certain bunches.

Harvest

The harvest began on September 10th for the Sauvignon and ended on October

29th, with the Petit Manseng that goes to make our late-harvest wine, Victoire.

Overview

The highlights were definitely the harvest, which took place in ideal weather conditions

(cool and sunny).

On the downside, there were significant variations in maturity, a low yield due to hail

and stalled ripening due to drought.

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Despite its many drawbacks, the 2012 vintage has produced by fruity, supple

wines.

It was a difficult year, both in terms of maintaining vine health (pressure from disease

caused by spring rain), as well as determining the optimal harvest date. Tasting the

berries was a determining factor in the final decision to start picking.

January 2013

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Miren de Lorgeril,Owner of lorGeril vineyards,LanGuedoC RouSSILLon

2012 vine cycle

The wetter years are good years in our hot, sunny climate so the fact that good

rainfall replenished water reserves in the soil, enabled the vines to thrive throughout

the vegetative cycle.They developed well, with well-balanced vegetative growth until

late August, even though the bunches were small with few berries, which meant a

small harvest.

Summer was pleasant; there was no heat wave but there were the three usual

thunderstorms and heavy rain at the end of September, which cooled things down.

Clear skies lowered night time temperatures, leading to slow maturation despite

warm afternoons. These variations in temperature between day and night favour

slow maturation and aroma development and our plots located at a higher altitude,

where the conditions are even cooler, proved even more precious. The weather was

exceptionally good during the harvest.

Our team had been well prepared and motivated by Bernard DURAND, our new

technical director who joined us last winter, after having managed François LURTON’s

Sud production for 17 years.

We harvested for more than 6 weeks, from September 10th (to increase freshness in

the Chardonnays and rosés) until October 25th for the last Cabernets and November

3rd for the late-harvest Chardonnays. Again, to maintain maximum freshness, we

harvested much more at night than in previous years.

2012: Strengths and weaknesses

We had to pay particular attention to the condition of the grapes this summer because

oïdium was ever present; missing a treatment on a few rows of Chardonnay gave

us a glimpse of what damage we might have had. We continue, however to use

sustainable growing methods and traceability to protect the health of the vines, while

using the smallest quantities of product possible.

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As the autumn was quite cool, late varieties (Mourvèdre in the areas closest to the

Mediterranean and Grenache and Cabernet in Cabardès) needed time to ripen but

as the grapes were in good condition, we were able to wait for complete, slow

maturation and wonderful freshness, all of which explains why the harvest lasted so

long.

2012 characteristics

The 2012 vintage has very attractive fruit, freshness and balance, thanks to this

year’s key elements:

• Cool temperatures allowed particularly slow maturation, which helped by

night harvesting and cold maceration, resulted in great freshness and fruit.

• The excellent condition of the crop allowed us to adapt our harvesting (over

6 weeks) to the pace of maturation on each terroir and in each variety, making the

2012 vintage very balanced.

Fermentation proved steady, with no acceleration or wide variations in temperature

and it was easy to extract colour, aromas and tannins.

This year’s wines are consequently even more fruit-driven than the 2011s; they are

fresh, juicy and elegant with ripe tannic structure. Thanks to soft extraction, we

believe that we have continued to progress, in particular at Ciffre in the Roussillon

and at La Livinière, where the wines express beautiful, intense fruit.

• We will produce a grand vin in ‘Latour de France’ Roussillon villages, which

we think has remarkable finesse this year.

• We may be making a white grand vin, but more of that later…

January 2013

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nicolas Perolini, Technical Manager at Château lauzade, CôTeS de PRoVenCe

With a cold winter, followed by hail and then drought, the 2012 vintage caused us a

few sleepless nights, Winter was particularly harsh with temperatures close to minus

15°C, the most obvious results of this were frost-burnt buds and lower yields.

In spring, hail struck the Var department and it passed only a few kilometers away

from us. To give an idea of the devastation it caused, some neighbours lost their

entire 2012 harvest as well as next year’s.

Then, between May and August, we had very little rain. Fortunately, the water table

was high and thanks to the care we had given the vines, they managed to reach

these reserves and produce beautifully healthy, ripe grapes. September rain helped

to increase volume.

August saw the renovation of our concrete winery and the installation of a temperature-

control system. As work finished only days before of harvest, I leave you to imagine

the stress levels! However, the combination of healthy, balanced grapes and the

improvements in the winery gave us the time to follow the progress of our various

vats in relative calm.

Harvesting took place in late August for a few days, with a brief pause to let the

plants absorb the rain. It then continued until mid-October, without interruption.

Today, the final blending of the rosés and whites are finished and promise some very

pleasurable wines.

We are currently finalising the second phase of our future investments at the winery

that will enable us to make a quantum leap in our ability to tame this unique and

magnificent terroir.

January 2013

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Guillaume et Soledad Tari, Owners of domaine de la béGude BandoL

After a cold and particularly snowy winter, our soil had sufficient water reserves

to confront an extremely dry summer: three months without the slightest drop of

rain…

We didn’t experience the usual mid-July and mid-August rainfall and had to wait for

the end of August for the first storm. To our delight this brought light, welcome rain

that eased our fears about the halt in the ripening process.

At that point it became a waiting game, though fortunately the excellent weather

conditions enabled us to do so with confidence. We started harvesting on September

24th and finished picking, as usual, on October 10th in the last appellation. Given

the great diversity of soils and exposure of our plots at Bégude (17 hectares spread

over 24 plots on 500 hectares of scrubland), our harvest is always prolonged, so that

we can choose the optimal time for harvesting on each plot.

Due to the mineral character of the sites and their exposure to the Mistral wind on the

highest point of the Bandol appellation, the yield was just 22 hectoliters/hectare.

The grapes were wonderfully healthy and we could afford to take our time. As

every year, the rosé vinification proved long, ending in December. The reds finished

their malolactic fermentation in January. This year we even harvested some white

from the wild boars’ favorite plot (!)- a cool valley, protected from the sometimes

overwhelming heat of Provence, it yielded about 1,000 bottles. At the moment, the

vintage seems to be characterised by good concentration and balance, though still

with the freshness that is the hallmark of the estate thanks to its altitude and the

wide range of day and night temperatures. The wines have great promise for the

future.

February 2013

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12 November 2012

A first! That is what Bourgogne’s winegrowers are saying about this year’s weather.

Given Mother Nature’s whims, they had to redouble their efforts to ensure the very

best results from their vines. And the first tastings confirm that all their hard work was

worthwhile. From the north of Bourgogne to the south, the industry is unanimous

- the quality of this year’s nascent wines is excellent, surpassing all expectations

given the weather. The only downside is the quantity which is below average, down

as much as 20% according to some estimates. (Definitive figures will be available in

early 2013).

A mild winter, a chilly spring with frosts, a warm May, a cool and rainy June, an

unstable summer, a heat wave, hail and storms - weather like this could not fail but

affect the vines. The cold and rain in spring caused shatter, where some flowers fail

to turn into fruit; millerandage where incomplete fertilization of the flower giving rise

to small berries; and a big threat from both downy and powdery mildew. The brief

hot periods in summer brought some very high temperatures that burned the fruit.

These phenomena, which occurred before the grapes ripened, meant yields were

significantly lower this year, but had no impact on the quality of the grapes. On the

contrary, aerated bunches of smaller berries guarantee concentration and intensity.

Having had to manage the elements and struggle on a daily basis, both man and

materials have emerged from this vintage worn out, yet victorious. During the harvest,

which took place under sunny skies, the grapes being welcomed into the wineries

were healthy and showed no signs of disease or rot.

The scarcity of the 2012 vintage will only serve to make the wines even more

precious!

2012a rare and precious vintage in BuRGundy

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Jacques Lardière,maison louis jadot,Burgundy

A vintage born of chaotic climatic conditions and contrasts.

Wine makers need to keep a close, meticulous watch on the progress of their vines

every year but in 2012 they had to brace themselves for an unrelenting battle against

cryptogamic diseases to save the crop.

It was hard going, but in the end Nature saved us from rot and the grapes that

came in to the winery were of astonishing quality. It put broad smiles on our faces,

smoothing the worry lines that had got deeper and deeper over the months.

Of course, any talk of the 2012 vintage in Burgundy is only of the 50% of the harvest

that was actually saved, because the year’s chaotic weather – not to mention the

hail – meant only half the normal crop was picked.

Fortunately, the quality of the wines is superb. As maturation continues, the reds are

beautiful and the whites are increasing elegant and with no trace of heaviness. It is a

style that should please all wine lovers.

December 2012

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Monday 24th September 2012: Philipponnat has just finished harvesting its grapes.

Picking started on September 13th but stopped between the 15th and 18th to allow

the grapes to reach optimum ripeness.

The winter and spring frosts, the cold spell just after flowering and the coulure that

followed put paid to any hopes of a generous harvest in terms of quantity. We also

lost a few bunches to mildew but the foliage was protected and stayed a healthy

green, ensuring good photosynthesis.

The wet weather in July generated a lot of work, especially weed control that is now

carried out entirely mechanically. We use a tractor equipped with an intercep or

under- vine tool, a cart horse and even, on the steep slopes of the Clos des Goisses,

manual weeding with a small hoe.

Yields were only 6,000 to 7,000 kilos/hectare producing a cuvée, (the first and only

pressing that is used at Philipponnat) of 30 to 35 hl/ha.

Quality was, however, very satisfactory, especially the Pinot Noirs, whose exceptional

sugar content (11.5° to more than 12°), was higher than in 1976, 2000 or 2003. This

was combined with excellent acidity (due to an exceptionally dry August, three dry

weeks in September and cold nights) that was even better than in 1996. The high

proportion of malic acid will enable the wines to retain well-balanced freshness. The

old saying proved to be true: August makes the must.

An unusual feature of this vintage was that the Clos des Goisses grapes were a little

less ripe than the Ay grapes (the basis of the 1522 cuvée). The yield for the latter was

slightly better as the vines on the warm soils of this terroir flowered before the cold

spell in June.

The musts were clear with little or no oxidisation and already present excellent

Charles Philipponnat,General Manager of ChamPaGnes PhiliPPonnat and of Clos des Goisses,CHaMPaGne

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aromatic qualities.The best are already fermenting in oak, a good sign, suggesting

purity and longevity.

Things will be clearer in a few weeks when the still wines are tasted but already, what

we are seeing now is somewhere between 2002 and 1959, two of Champagne’s

greatest vintages.

September 2012

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Autumn 2012 was very rainy, followed by a cold, very snowy winter and more heavy

rain, much heavier and more prolonged than normal and which only stopped in early

April.

There followed a hot, dry spring and a hot summer, with a heat wave in late June.

Yields were reduced to provide optimum ripening of the skins and to avoid berry

dehydration.

The harvest started in the third week of August and finished a month later.

February 2013

Karim and Sandro Saadé,Owners of Chateau marsyas,LeBanon

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